• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

Spankrjs' 1984 Long Term Project

I did some work on the Scrambler last night.

I adjusted the timing to 8 degrees, and the engine still starts just fine, but it accelerates much better, too, so a good little exercise.

I readjusted the TV cable, but the same thing. The transmission works great in reverse and first, but does not want to shift into second, and when it does, it will slip under moderate acceleration.

But, the Detroit Locker works!!!!!!

IMAG2094_zpsad36419d-1.jpg


And, the Scrambler will power brake the back tires off on pavement, too. So,it seems like the transmission doesn't slip in first at all, and has plenty of line pressure, too. My problems start as soon as it shifts into second gear. When it gets to third gear, seems OK, too.


I have readjusted the TV cable multiple times, but it does not make a difference. Maybe I have the wrong TV cable on here, it is the one that was attached to the transmission. I might have to install an aftermarket adjustable TV cable.

The funny thing is: When I shifted it into 4 Low, the transmission upshifted/downshifted perfectly, through gears 1-3, never could get it to shift into OD while in 4 Low.

I am going to have to do some more research/investigating, maybe put a pressure gauge on the transmission to check the line pressures?? Like I have said many times before, I don't know too much at all about these "slush boxes".



I went ahead and changed out the parts on my shifter, too.

IMAG2095_zpsb630cfd1-1.jpg



The "knob insert" was easy, and the "detent plate" wasn't too bad either. You can also see the correct selector shaft arm at the top, which has the recess for the cable attaching bolt. Besides the recess, this arm mounts at a slightly different angle, too.


Since the selector shaft arm sits at a different angle, the cable would not reach.

IMAG2097_zpsfac0cad3-1.jpg



No matter how I slid the cable to pan attaching bracket, or which bolts I used, I could not get the cable to work, it would be either too long or too short. I "think" Lokar must use a different bracket here, too.

But, by removing this piece of metal, I got the bracket to work, and it is held in by 3 pan bolts, so no worries.

IMAG2098_zpsda42a739-1.jpg


IMAG2100_zpsc4b8c3b5-1.jpg



And now, the cable fits just fine, and the selector shaft arm/cable attaching bolt clear the transmission pan, too.

IMAG2104_zpsf5d6c92d-1.jpg


IMAG2105_zpsdf59dc15-1.jpg



And of course, since I moved the cable at the pan, I had to slightly adjust the cable at both the top end attachment points, too, but pretty easy.

IMAG2110_zpsb988f289-1.jpg



That is kind of a bad picture, makes it look like the cable is running down hill, but it is not.

Anyway, now I can manually shift it into every gear, so at least that problem solved.


And to vindicate "Canadian Mike", my throttle cable broke, the plastic sleeve pulled through the firewall bracket!!!!

IMAG2114_zpsff3cde61-1.jpg



So, maybe the part I cut off was needed, after all???

Looks like I will be getting an aftermarket throttle cable from Lokar after all!!

And, maybe this is part of my TV cable issues, too - if the throttle cable is slipping back when the transmission is trying to shift, allowing the TV cable to slip back and drop pressure.................

So, I will fix the throttle cable before anymore transmission work.

That's it for now.
 
Did a little bit of work on the Scrambler last night.

Pictured below is the Lokar throttle cable I used, plus the not yet installed new "TV" cable.

IMAG2118_zps71fa082b-1.jpg


IMAG2119_zps9116e39e-1.jpg



And, following a tip from "Magic Mike", I was able to remove the Lokar gas pedal end fitting and replace it with a stock CJ fitting, works perfect.

IMAG2120_zps1fe10b8d-1.jpg


IMAG2121_zps3d7ef9cb-1.jpg



I did not do a step by step, but if you follow the instructions, and measure carefully, you will not have any problems installing this cable. I used the 24" long cable, which was more then long enough for my application. One important note - DO NOT pull the aluminum ferrul thing off the SS braided outer cable, it is a %$#@&* to get back on, trust me on this one:rotfl:


The only "mods" I had to do - I had to use a washer on both sides of the "firewall cable fittings". The Lokar parts are smaller then the stock CJ square hole, works perfect. This was another tip I gathered from a "Magic Mike" picture text:thumbsup:

IMAG2123_zps716abc86-1.jpg


IMAG2124_zps0cddee82-1.jpg



Not pictured - I had to use washers on the Lokar fittings where they attach to the GM intake mounted throttle cable bracket, too. Same issue, big square hole. Eazy peazy nice and cheezy.

And installed.

IMAG2122_zpsd469bb64-1.jpg



The one thing I do not like about this cable - After the cable passes through the intake mounted bracket, there is no sheath to protect the cable, or to protect other things from the cable. I cut a piece of tubing off one of the old throttle cables and slid it over this unsheathed portion of the cable. Maybe not necessary, but I like how the factory cables fully sheath the inner cable. You can see the black piece of tubing I slid over the cable in the above picture.

I did not change the TV cable yet, BUT I did "exercise" the old cable. Basically, I pulled it out fully, then let it slide back fully, about 100 times. You can also see a "kink" in the exposed portion of the TV cable, not a good thing.

After adjusting the throttle cable, and hooking back up the old TV cable, took the Scrambler on a test drive.

And what do you know, it is working/shifting much better. Drove it easy around the neighborhood, it shifts out of first at around 15mph, and shifts into third around 25mph. I did not drive it fast enough yet to get it to shift into OD. But, it is shifting into at least the 3 lower gears, and is not slipping, if you drive it reasonably. My test drive was cut short, I have about ran the Scrambler out of gas, to the point it started starving for fuel on a hill.

Anyway, hope to put some more gas in it this weekend, and do some more driving. I am also going to swap out TV cables, I have a feeling the currently installed cable has some issues.

Anyway, it felt good to finally get a "successful" drive out of this thing, but still some more work to do. I might hook up a pressure gauge to the transmission test port to check the line pressures, after I swap out the TV cable, to put my mind at ease.

That's it for now.
 
The only "mods" I had to do - I had to use a washer on both sides of the "firewall cable fittings". The Lokar parts are smaller then the stock CJ square hole, works perfect. This was another tip I gathered from a "Magic Mike" picture text:thumbsup:

IMAG2123_zps716abc86-1.jpg

looks exactly like the pic I sent you!

 
Rain out Saturday:banghead::banghead:

Saints Game Sunday:thumbsup::cheers:

House/dog sitting this week:ZZZ::ZZZ:

One last picture for awhile:wave:

IMAG2125_zps8f795d83-1.jpg



That's it for now.
 
Not too much productive work on the Scrambler lately, but here is a quick update.

I purchased some parts to repair the lift gate and hard top.

IMAG2181_zps2accf84f-1.jpg



These are the struts I used to replace the stock, wore out Acme shocks, they work/fit.

IMAG2182_zps160e36d1-1.jpg



They are slightly different, but seem to function fine. Well, the one I can attach fits fine, but the lift gate mounting point on the driver side broke off, so I need to repair it before I can attach the second strut.

IMAG2185_zps95a846b3-1.jpg



The Acme hard top is secured to the body with some weird latch things. The weird latch things are secured to the fiberglass top with pop rivets. I am going to have to drill out the pop rivets to replace the latches. I plan on installing these things in the fiberglass, and then securing the new latches with regular machine screws. I haven't messed with this yet, but will update when I do.

IMAG2183_zps6b65bde9-1.jpg



My 700R4 has not been wanting to shift out of first gear. Besides messing with the "TV" cable, the governor can also stick, causing problems. Last Saturday I pulled the governor out to see if it was damaged/stuck.

In the picture below, I already removed the metal cover that conceals the governor.

IMAG2189_zpsb70fa105-1.jpg



Governor removed.

IMAG2187_zps0eb14e18-1.jpg



And the governor. It looks new, the plastic gear is fine, and it moves freely, so I do not suspect a problem here.

IMAG2186_zps008b6ea8-1.jpg



Well, it is easy enough to pull the governor out, but it is a bigger paint to reinstall the press fit cover, when you have a 700R4 installed in a narrow CJ. I did not have enough room to swing a hammer to install it with the exhaust in the way. So, jack up transmission, drop skid plate, drop front driveshaft, drop exhaust, and then I can reinstall the metal cover.

IMAG2190_zps910ed7d1-1.jpg



After reinstalling the governor, a quick test drive resulted in the same problem, no upshift out of first gear, or if it would, it would be a long, drawn out, slipping shift.

I was able to find the GM ID number on the transmission. According to the ATSG book, I have a 1988 700R4 that came out of a 4.3 powered van. Well, the case is. All of the guts are interchangeable, so know way for me to know what kind of guts this thing has unless I rip it apart. I am not that curious, yet.

IMAG2195_zps793fdb12-1.jpg



I purchased another TV cable off of Ebay. This one is too long, but it will work.

IMAG2198_zps73f61e31-1.jpg



This is the third TV cable I have tried to use, none of them just "bolt right in and work".
 
I purchased the above pictured TV cable due to it's "adjustable" end point. When using a stock engine, stock transmission, stock throttle body, and stock throttle bracket, a stock TV cable should work, and should adjust like stock. Well, in this case, they do not.

Besides making sure the TV cable is fully extended at wide open throttle, the cable should have some tension on it at idle. I lot of people recommend having the cable pulled out 3/8"-1/2" at idle. I tried this, IT DID NOT WORK. The transmission still would not shift.

So, the next time I messed with the TV cable, I decided to start over. I started with the cable set with no preload. It would shift, but slip/was very soft. From here, I slightly pulled the cable out. When I say slightly, I mean like in 1/32 increments. This thing is sensitive. After about 50 adjustments, I finally have a shifting transmission, but still not "right".

On the 1-2 shift, it kind of "sticks". It does not slip, but it kind of hangs in first a bit too long. Once it shifts, it shifts fine.
The 2-3 shift is almost invisible, very quick.
I currently do not have the 3-4 shift. Might have to jack it up off the ground, and try to force this shift.
The downshifts work properly.

After getting the transmission to shift, took it on a drive to the gas station.

Finally, some pictures where it is not in the yard!!!!!

IMAG2202_zps9b44cb80-1.jpg


IMAG2201_zpsc80509fe-1.jpg



The Scrambler drives great. The engine runs smooth and strong. The steering is tight. Brake work great. Surprisingly, the unbalanced tires run fine, no vibrations. The springs, however, are a bit "firm", especially compared to the RE springs on my red Scrambler. I got the Scrambler up to 85mph, and it still drove great, just no OD shift, yet. It still had plenty to go, too!!!

As for the transmission, I do not think I can "adjust it by feel" anymore. I need to rig up a pressure gauge to check the line pressure at the different TV settings. This is the only way to definitely set it right. If fine tuning the TV setting does not change the shifting issues, I will take it to an auto transmission shop down the road from my house. I already talked to them about my issues, they seem to believe it is either a TV cable issue, or the TV itself sticking.

That's it for now.
 
youre too popular, pics not working.
 
Didnt bother reading it without the pics. Just went back ad read it! AWESOME!!
 
Cool! Sorry about your trans issues. The 700R4 and be a sensitive pain in the rear when it comes to the TV cable adjustment. The only way I've ever been able to get one to shift right is to make sure everything is stock, from cable to bracket to throttle body arm. I have found that due to the possibility of damage, and the time I waste trying to get it perfect, it's usually better to let a trans shop perform the final adjustment...,
 
Didnt bother reading it without the pics. Just went back ad read it! AWESOME!!

Appreciate it:cheers:

Cool! Sorry about your trans issues. The 700R4 and be a sensitive pain in the rear when it comes to the TV cable adjustment. The only way I've ever been able to get one to shift right is to make sure everything is stock, from cable to bracket to throttle body arm. I have found that due to the possibility of damage, and the time I waste trying to get it perfect, it's usually better to let a trans shop perform the final adjustment...,

Yep, I have pretty much resigned myself to taking it to a transmission shop:confused: I hate to "give up", but I am not making in forward progress with it:shrug:
 
I did a little bit of work to this Scrambler this weekend, but I am no closer to figuring out this auto transmissions issues:shrug:

I rigged up a 0-300psi gauge, using some high pressure tractor hydraulic hose, and hooked it up to the transmission. I then proceeded to check the line pressure in each of the ranges, at minimum and maximum TV throw. Using the figures provided in the ATSG 700R4 manual, this is where I am at: (=where it should be)

Range---MIN TV---------------MAX TV

P----------90 (65-90)-------190 (116-196)
R----------120 (84-148)----290 (157-293)
N----------80 (65-90)------ 190 (116-196)
D----------80 (65-90)-------190 (116-196)
3----------80 (65-90)1------190 (116-196)
2----------190 (163-197)---190 (163-226)
1----------190 (163-197)---190 (163-226)

The ATSG book gives more exact "where it should be ranges", depending on exactly what model code transmission you have. Since I did not build this transmission, I do not know exactly "where it should be". But, all of my numbers look good. Even with very light throttle in each range, I see the pressure build, indicating to me that the TV stuff is working. We took it on a road test, and when the transmission shifts, you will see a very quick/very small drop in pressure, then it goes back to normal. Even when the transmission does not "catch" the gear it needs to, the pressure stays normal, it does not peg or drop.

I drove the Scrambler around some more, but it still does not shift correctly. The 1-2 shift works great, but the 2-3 shift gets "stuck" in between gears, unless you let off the throttle some, then it will "catch" third gear. The transmission shifts fine when you "manually" up shift it. When you manually down shift, it does not shift immediately, it lags some. I only got the transmission to catch 4th gear 2 or 3 times. When I say it "works great", I mean at light/moderate throttle. It does not want to shift at 3/4 to full throttle.

This is just my uneducated guess, but I think some valves/solenoids are sticking, sometimes. Sometimes it works fine, other times wont shift. Very inconsistent, but it does consistently not work correctly.

I changed the engine oil for the first time, it was good and nasty, no pictures. Since I was driving the Scrambler around, I drove it to work on Saturday and steam cleaned it. The steam cleaner works great for removing the blue stuff off of tires, and cleaning tree sap off of paint/fiberglass.

IMAG2203_zps28b63a95-1.jpg



I am going Jeeping up at Hawk's Pride ORV Park later on this week in my red Scrambler, so no more work on this Scrambler for a week or two.

One last picture of the now "clean", not shifting correctly Scrambler for now:

IMAG2205_zpsa01b2a53-1.jpg



If I don't have some sort of "auto transmission diagnosis epiphany" this week, I think I will "punt", and bring it to an automatic transmission repair shop next week:(

That's it for now:wave:
 
Last night I decided to try one last thing to "fix" my transmission issues, so I dumped a can of "Sea Foam Tran Tune" down the dipstick hole. Now, this isn't some sort of "miracle transmission snake oil", it is a cleaner, designed to clean sludge/varnish from the transmission. That's it. It is not a "stop leak", "miracle band fixer", "friction modifier", or any other non-sense, it is a cleaner. That's it. This is a rebuilt transmission, but it has sat up for a long time. I kind of think some things might just be "stuck/sticking". Since my transmission does not "slip", it just "hangs up", figured it was worth a shot, the stuff only cost $7.00.

Started the Scrambler up, let it get to operating temperature, and dumped the stuff into the transmission. I placed the transmission in each range for 3 minutes, while holding my foot on the brake. I then went and drove it around, about 40 miles.

It did not magically fix it, BUT it is much better. I can manually upshift 1-2, and 2-3. The 2-3 has a slight "surge" on a manual upshift. Did not get fourth gear. It will also now manually downshift 3-2 and 2-1. The 3-2 still doesn't feel "right", takes a few seconds to "fully engage".

In Drive, the 1-2 shift is soft/late, and it almost immediately wants to go into 3. No fourth.

I then parked it over night.

I had to go near the house today while I was working, so I decided to punt and bring the Scrambler to a transmission shop.

So, I get in it, fire it up, let it warm up a bit. And what do you know, I put it in drive, and it worked correctly. Driving the Scrambler nice and smooth, I was able to get three complete upshift/downshift cycles, including fourth:)

But, once it warmed up, it started its usual 1-2 delayed shift, but the other shifts were OK:(

Now, before I dumped the SeaFoam in, the fluid was bright and red, as it should be in a "rebuilt" transmission. After the bit of driving I did, the fluid is darker/dirty, BUT NOT burnt.

This Scrambler has sat for two years without moving, while it has been in my possession. There is no telling how long it sat before I acquired it. I do think part of my problems are caused by certain things "sticking", i.e. old assembly lube, maybe some dirt, slight corrosion, etc:shrug:

Anyway, it is at a transmission shop now. They tend to think it is just something(s) stuck in the valve body.

I will update once I get it back, or hear some news.

That's it for now:wave:
 
Last night I decided to try one last thing to "fix" my transmission issues, so I dumped a can of "Sea Foam Tran Tune" down the dipstick hole. Now, this isn't some sort of "miracle transmission snake oil", it is a cleaner, designed to clean sludge/varnish from the transmission. That's it. It is not a "stop leak", "miracle band fixer", "friction modifier", or any other non-sense, it is a cleaner. That's it. This is a rebuilt transmission, but it has sat up for a long time. I kind of think some things might just be "stuck/sticking". Since my transmission does not "slip", it just "hangs up", figured it was worth a shot, the stuff only cost $7.00.

Started the Scrambler up, let it get to operating temperature, and dumped the stuff into the transmission. I placed the transmission in each range for 3 minutes, while holding my foot on the brake. I then went and drove it around, about 40 miles.

It did not magically fix it, BUT it is much better. I can manually upshift 1-2, and 2-3. The 2-3 has a slight "surge" on a manual upshift. Did not get fourth gear. It will also now manually downshift 3-2 and 2-1. The 3-2 still doesn't feel "right", takes a few seconds to "fully engage".

In Drive, the 1-2 shift is soft/late, and it almost immediately wants to go into 3. No fourth.

I then parked it over night.

I had to go near the house today while I was working, so I decided to punt and bring the Scrambler to a transmission shop.

So, I get in it, fire it up, let it warm up a bit. And what do you know, I put it in drive, and it worked correctly. Driving the Scrambler nice and smooth, I was able to get three complete upshift/downshift cycles, including fourth:)

But, once it warmed up, it started its usual 1-2 delayed shift, but the other shifts were OK:(

Now, before I dumped the SeaFoam in, the fluid was bright and red, as it should be in a "rebuilt" transmission. After the bit of driving I did, the fluid is darker/dirty, BUT NOT burnt.

This Scrambler has sat for two years without moving, while it has been in my possession. There is no telling how long it sat before I acquired it. I do think part of my problems are caused by certain things "sticking", i.e. old assembly lube, maybe some dirt, slight corrosion, etc:shrug:

Anyway, it is at a transmission shop now. They tend to think it is just something(s) stuck in the valve body.

I will update once I get it back, or hear some news.

That's it for now:wave:

We'll be watching!
 
We'll be watching!

Well, you didn't have to wait long:thumbsup:

They are pretty sure the 2/4 gear clutches/bands are FUBAR:(:(

I told them to pull it down, tear it apart, and fix what needs fixin:banghead:

There is still a slim chance it could be something in the valve body, but when they checked the pressure on the 2/4 clutches, they would not hold. The fluid is getting good and toasty, too:shrug:

So much for that "rebuilt" transmission:(:angry:

Hope to get it back by the end of next week, with a much lighter wallet, I am sure:(

That's it for now:wave:
 
Well, you didn't have to wait long:thumbsup:

They are pretty sure the 2/4 gear clutches/bands are FUBAR:(:(

:( That sucks...

Speaking of "FUBAR"- if anyone sees a Stanley Fubar demolition tool for sale- one of the original ones that were cast "FUBAR", please let me know...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top