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Spankrjs' 1984 Long Term Project

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Make a "reverse" of those clips- one that has the mounting holes on the opposide side of where they currently are. Or get some tabs to rivet the clips to so they sit a bit below the rail.

The reverse clips is a great idea:cheers::thumbsup:

Currently, with all 8 of the new latches just clipped on the body tub rail, the top is holding tight, so I will probably let it ride like this for now:thumbsup:

I installed the driver's side weather stripping last night, after four hours of scraping old glue off, so the top is really fitting well now. A quick test drive revealed that it is pretty much rattle free. The back hatch rattles, but it also currently does not have any weather stripping on it at all, it fell off:rotfl:

As for the top, I still need to repair the following:

install rear hatch weather stripping (will glue back on the original, it is still good)
replace the two top to windshield frame latches
reinstall hatch mounted bracket that the gas strut attaches to
install gas strut

We have a ride in two weeks, so I am going to have to prioritize a few repairs/comfort items in the next few days.

Things I need to do:

install B&M transmission fluid cooler
install center console (will repaint later)
install rear hatch weather stripping (quiet the rattles)
make some temporary boots/patches around the floor shifters

That's it for now:wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Did a little more work to the hard top last night.

I forgot, more glue to scrape!!!!!!

IMAG2270_zps137a4789-1.jpg



And after three hours of scraping:

IMAG2273_zps64dfd586-1.jpg



I was going to use the original weather stripping, but not sure how to get the glue off without damaging it.

IMAG2274_zpscb5f51e3-1.jpg


IMAG2275_zps4ef76046-1.jpg



This probably isn't the best thing, but it should quiet the rattles down, and seal better then no weather stripping at all. I used the same stuff I put on the bottom of the hard top. It will be OK, for now.

IMAG2276_zps33fdf3c5-1.jpg



I have only had one strut on the lift gate, the other side had a damaged bracket. Finally pulled the bracket off:

IMAG2279_zps2a39f088-1.jpg



ACME through bolted this bracket on, so easy fix.

IMAG2281_zps287b6e1b-1.jpg



I did use some JB weld to fill the old holes. Not really necessary, but...

IMAG2277_zpsb8d9cd00-1.jpg



After the JB Weld set up, I re-drilled the holes. ACME used #10 bolts, I slightly drilled out the bracket/top for 1/4", works fine.

After getting the bracket on, I installed the other strut. And what do you know, it wont hold up the lift gate!!!!!!

IMAG2282_zps6ce233dd-1.jpg



Someone on this posted that these struts, NAPA part # 819 5518 will work, THEY WILL NOT. So, I get to go buy some more struts.

On the plus side, no more rattles, so happy about that.

That's it for now.
 

wm69

Scrambler Junkie
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
God's Country
State
AR
Please let us know which struts DO work. I have an ACME in the back yard to go on the '8, and it's gonna need a going over like you've done to yours.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Ok, I got some new struts for the lift gate, and they work. The original ones I tried only had 30 pounds of force, these new ones are rated at 60 pounds. At first, I thought that was too much, but one of the new struts and one of the old struts could not keep the gate open. Using two of the new struts together works perfectly.

IMAG2283_zps2d2c10f7-1.jpg


IMAG2284_zps9acd0843-1.jpg


IMAG2289_zps969cd66e-1.jpg



I also have been working on installing the secondary transmission oil cooler. With the slightly cooler temperatures we have been having down here, just using the radiator cooler has kept the transmission temperature below 175, the engine coolant at 190 (with a 180 degree thermostat). But, I think a secondary cooler is a good idea.

The cooler kit I purchased.

IMAG2291_zps701b1729-1.jpg


IMAG2292_zps0a89f34f-1.jpg


IMAG2293_zps7b288fc5-1.jpg



This is a "stacked plate design" cooler, rated at 13,000 pound GVWR IIRC. I did not want to just "strap the cooler through the radiator with plastic ties", and I didn't want to have to drill a whole bunch of holes in the grill. I could not find any good "how to install a secondary cooler in a CJ" threads on the web, so this is what I did.

This first picture shows the included straps bolted to the cooler.

IMAG2294_zps96888d16-1.jpg



As you can see, they are too short to reach both sides of the grill.

IMAG2295_zps0b454edf-1.jpg



So, a short piece of angle strut, 1-1/2" X 1-1/2", bought at Lowes, works perfectly. This piece of strut bolts to the bottom of the grill using two existing holes. The cooler straps then bolt to this piece of angle. I still need to drill two holes in the top of the grill to secure the cooler at the top. Looks kind of "erector set", but it works. I am using nylon lock nuts on all of the bolts.

IMAG2296_zps12f2c516-1.jpg



The above picture was a "mock up". I haven't finished this install yet, but I did decide to flip the cooler around, so that the cooler sits closer to the radiator, not like it is pictured above. The instructions call for no more then a 1/8" gap between the cooler and the radiator, and by swapping it around, I have achieved that gap.

The cooler "IN" and "OUT" lines are facing the passenger side. I will be able to run the lines out the bottom side of the grill on the passenger side without any problems.

I have also mounted the cooler a little bit off center, toward the passenger side. I did this for two reasons:

1) so that the lines running to the cooler would not be visible (aesthetic)
2) so that the upper driver side mounting bolt will clear the hood latch assembly (practical)


After getting it all mocked up, I hit the brackets with some black paint.

IMAG2297_zps92144936-1.jpg



I hope to get this thing installed tonight.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I have also been working on installing a center console. Cup holders ARE A NECESSITY!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Anyway, I got this older Tuffy console for free. A guy at works son bought it for his FJ40, but then decided not to use it. It then sat for a few years, went underwater in Katrina, then sat a few more years.

IMAG2298_zps2d496e58-1.jpg



Surprisingly, it did not rust too bad, mainly just these little doo-dads:

IMAG2299_zps8aa9b6d9-1.jpg



For now, I just rinsed the console off with water. I will repaint it in the future. The only bad thing about this console - it is only 6" wide, which causes some mounting issues. I am also missing the arm rest pad and the rear mounting bracket, but for a free console, I am not complaining. I had a locksmith pick the lock, so it is fully functional, just a bit rusty.

I am going to use one of the existing holes on the floor to secure the front of the console. I had to drill these two forward holes to secure the cable shifter. Below these holes is a 5/16" plate steel bracket, so I have a very solid front mounting point.

IMAG2300_zps4e5f3672-1.jpg



The problem with this narrow console is where the rear mounting holes fall, right over a contoured/PIA part of the floor.

IMAG2301_zps99342858-1.jpg



I do not like drilling holes in good sheet metal, so I tried this "Rube Goldberg" rear mounting system, EPIC FAIL!!!!

IMAG2302_zps4962ea94-1.jpg



I the end, I had to make a rear bracket, and drill two holes in the floor, to mount the console. I will take some pictures and post them up in the next day or two.

That's it for now:wave:
 

wm69

Scrambler Junkie
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
God's Country
State
AR
Yep, I want to see that rear mount. I have an 8" Tuffy to go in Dad's Scrambler, but don't really want to drill any holes. I though I could do a _[]_ bracket of of flat steel and use the bolts that hold the inner seat belt buckles, but haven't really looked into the details yet.

I'll be Tuffy would sell you another pad cheap if you call them. I've been impressed with their CS the couple of times I've called.

Also, on the transmission cooler......my green Jeep has A/C and I have an automatic to go in at some point. I'm at a loss on how to mount an aux cooler with the A/C condensor in the way. Anyone do so successfully? Gotta be someone on here running an auto with A/C and an aux cooler.

Last, thanks for the part numbers in your writeup. Nice to know I can refer back to a thread and get the info I need!
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
Good idea on the cooler. One suggestion- get some full length straps so that the cooler body isn't an integral part of the support structure. The way it's set up now, all vibrations and flexing are transmitted through the short straps and then through the cooler. With full length straps the cooler is only hanging off of the straps, which are taking all the vibration and possible flex.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Good idea on the cooler. One suggestion- get some full length straps so that the cooler body isn't an integral part of the support structure. The way it's set up now, all vibrations and flexing are transmitted through the short straps and then through the cooler. With full length straps the cooler is only hanging off of the straps, which are taking all the vibration and possible flex.

The one piece straps seem to be a great idea, I will probably revisit this idea in the near future:thumbsup:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Quick update, almost ready for it's first "road trip":thumbsup:

Re-visited my center console mounting, this is what I have for now:


Piece of tubing I bought at Lowes, cut to length and painted black.

IMAG2405_zps37757f92-1.jpg



It bolts to the bottom of the console, using the existing holes.

IMAG2406_zpsce283770-1.jpg



And using some old body mounts/transfer case drop spacers/ washer. It works, but I am going to revisit this in the near future.

IMAG2408_zpsd7e621f0-1.jpg



And installed.

IMAG2409_zpsf1d43903-1.jpg



Due to the location of my shifters, the 700R4 pushes everything back, I had to mount the cup holders on the back, but no big deal.

IMAG2411_zps797fd227-1.jpg



I still need to do some "temporary shifter boot/close up the holes in the shifter plate" work, it will probably be a duct tape job for now!!!


I finished the transmission cooler install, for now.

IMAG2412_zps4b302b4e-1.jpg


IMAG2415_zpsa936b935-1.jpg


IMAG2416_zpsa40c038a-1.jpg


IMAG2414_zpsb6bc0b56-1.jpg



I am going to swap out the gold colored bolts for black bolts, just to help it "blend in" some more.

I ran the rubber lines that go from the cooler back to the radiator/transmission inside pieces of heater hose, to prevent chaffing.

The auxiliary cooler is mounted about 1/8" away from the face of the radiator, per the B&M recommendation.

The lines run as follows:

1) from transmission to radiator cooler
2) from radiator cooler to bottom fitting on B&M cooler (per recommendations)
3) from upper fitting on B&M cooler back to transmission

My 700R4 was using 1/4" line to the radiator cooler, the B&M cooler uses 3/8" fittings. So, for now, I have some adapters to tie everything together. I plan on changing the fittings out on the transmission/radiator to 3/8", then I can run the same size line everywhere. I don't have any leaks now, but I don't like all my adapters, looks junky.


I still need to secure the cooler lines, make sure everything is tight, then it will be ready for it's first "road trip".

That's it for now.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
No road trip this weekend, our jeep ride got canceled:(

Did a little bit of work cleaning up the transmission cooler lines, and I am much happier about it now, looks much better.

I drove the Scrambler around some this weekend, and the cooler does work:thumbsup:

Before adding the auxiliary transmission cooler, the transmission temperature stayed around 175 degrees. The temperature stays right at 150 degree now:thumbsup: Some of the temperature difference might be from the cooler weather we are having, but I think a majority of the difference can be attributed to the cooler. The real test will be once the temperature warms back up:thumbsup:

And the best thing, the addition of this cooler in front of the radiator DID NOT cause the engine temperature to increase, the engine is running at 190 degrees:thumbsup:

I plan on taking this Scrambler to Sicily Island, Louisiana, this weekend, for a jeeping trip, we shall see:fingerscrossed:

That's it for now:wave:
 

MrBeep

CJ-8 Vendor Supporter
SOA Member
CJ-8.com Vendor
City
Dillsboro
State
IN
No road trip this weekend, our jeep ride got canceled:(




The real test will be once the temperature warms back up and repeted trips up "Test Hill" :thumbsup:

And the best thing, the addition of this cooler in front of the radiator DID NOT cause the engine temperature to increase, the engine is running at 190 degrees:thumbsup:


That's it for now:wave:

Fixed it for you Raymond. :thumbsup: :wave:
 

bigwalton

Alaskan Postal nutjob
FORUM MANAGER
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
You're on the very low end of the operating range for an automatic, it is possible for them to run too cold. 150 is what is often cited as the low limit. The radiator portion of the circuit also serves to hear the fluid when needed. Just want to throw that out as it gets "cold" down there.

Can't wait to see pics of it out on the ride :popcorn:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Fixed it for you Raymond. :thumbsup: :wave:

I figured you might do that:thumbsup::wave:

You're on the very low end of the operating range for an automatic, it is possible for them to run too cold. 150 is what is often cited as the low limit. The radiator portion of the circuit also serves to hear the fluid when needed. Just want to throw that out as it gets "cold" down there.

Can't wait to see pics of it out on the ride :popcorn:

As for the temperature, I have heard that 165 is the "magic number". Mine is running somewhere between 150-160 now:shrug: I was concerned about this, until I rode in my friends truck last night. His 2005 GMC 2500 has a factory installed transmission temperature gauge. On his truck, it was running about 135 degrees, and he said it only gets up to around 150 while towing:shrug:

So far, the transmission is functioning fine, but this might be a problem up where y'all are from, with your much colder temperatures:shrug: With the engine running 180-190 degrees, I cant see the secondary cooler dropping the transmission fluid temperature below 150, but I guess it is possible. I will keep you updated:thumbsup:

And your right, I cant wait to take this thing off-road for a little bit:D
 

Bushmaster6

Legacy Registered User
City
the Springs
State
CO
I have also been working on installing a center console. Cup holders ARE A NECESSITY!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Anyway, I got this older Tuffy console for free. A guy at works son bought it for his FJ40, but then decided not to use it. It then sat for a few years, went underwater in Katrina, then sat a few more years.

IMAG2298_zps2d496e58-1.jpg



Surprisingly, it did not rust too bad, mainly just these little doo-dads:

IMAG2299_zps8aa9b6d9-1.jpg

I have one that looks in almost exactly the same shape, but it did come with the armrest.. even has the matching broken cable on it. Plan on doing a resto-project on it to paint it, and figure out something to recover the pad. You'll (undoubtedly) get to yours before I do mine so.. looking forward to stealing your ideas. :cheers:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I have one that looks in almost exactly the same shape, but it did come with the armrest.. even has the matching broken cable on it. Plan on doing a resto-project on it to paint it, and figure out something to recover the pad. You'll (undoubtedly) get to yours before I do mine so.. looking forward to stealing your ideas. :cheers:

I am very happy to hear that you are planning on restoring your console, sounds like the Scrambler will be staying with you for a while longer:thumbsup::cheers:;):D
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Heading to Louisiana this weekend for some Jeeping, and just didn't trust the old, weather crackerd BFG's AT's to make the four hour one way highway trip.

So, new shoes:

IMAG2438_zps430a4437-1.jpg


IMAG2440_zps8f953d2c-1.jpg


IMAG2442_zpsbecb4654-1.jpg



I procrastinated, as usual, so I didn't have time to order some high dollar, name brand tires. But, the local Tire Kingdom tire stores keep these in stock, so I figured I would try them out. They are an "off brand" tire, but they are made by Cooper, built in the USA, and they are 6 ply!!!! These same tires are sold all over the country, with a slightly different name, so they are around.

They seem to be in between a BFG Mud Terrain type tire and a Super Swamper, with regards to aggressiveness. It will be muddy where I am going this weekend, and we are also going to hit some mud next weekend closer to home, so I should have a pretty good idea about their performance in a week or two.

One problem:

IMAG2441_zps37072467-1.jpg



When you try to open the rear hatch, it hits the spare tire. I might be able to shim/adjust the tire some so that it clears, not sure yet.

A couple better pictures:

IMAG2448_zpsaf39d14a-1.jpg


IMAG2447_zpscf4f3392-1.jpg



I cant wait to sling some mud with them!!! Since they don't make "real" Buck Shots anymore, or the good old "Co-Op Grip Spurs", this might be a suitable, inexpensive, aggressive mud tire option. These were less then $200 each, mounted and balanced.

That's it for now:wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Nice build! If you get tired of that SMC/700r4 a diesel Scrambler is always nice.

Appreciate it:thumbsup::cheers:

As for a diesel, I am already half way there, the wore out valve stem oil seals cause it to smoke like one right off idle:rotfl::rotfl::thumbsup:
 
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