spankrjs's Biloxi, MS '83 Scrambler

[spankrjs]

The foreward cylinder trap door goes to the part of the TVS that has a nipple sticking up inside the air cleaner. The rearward door opener goes around the air cleaner, T's off with one line going to the non-nipple connector on the TVS, and the other part of the T goes to the base of the carb on the back.


I think you already figured that out, but the TVS on ours had same sized orifaces like your replacement. The original part was also marked "Made in Canada".

I "think" that's how I have it, I will double check

 

[spankrjs]

Are you hooking up the air tubes that go back to the exhaust system? I had forgotten they were there until I really took a close look under the hood yesterday.

Back in the 90's my cat clogged up and when the shop removed it the owner had a 5 gallon bucket full of hoses and other OEM emissions stuff. "I took all that crap off. You don't need it and it runs better without it."

Yes, I plan on installing the pulse air system back on to this Scrambler. But, I also need to reinstall a cat, the original/second owner had a shop repeat the procedure that happened to yours

 

[spankrjs]

I have nothing but respect for anyone who wants to restore any truck to it original condition if it's going to be a Concourse type restoration. But the emissions on these trucks reduce power and fuel mileage by as much as 25%. But I understand they still may be required in some states. Spankrjs I admire your determination.

Appreciate it This is definitely not a "concourse quality" restoration, I just wanted to figure out how all this stuff works. The best way to learn is to install/diagnose it

As for reducing power/MPG, not so sure about that. As far as power, I would probably agree to a point, a non-feedback Carter equipped CJ does seem to be a bit quicker then the feedback models, but not by much

On the fuel mileage, I would argue that IF all the feedback sensors/components are in place AND functional, I believe a feedback model would get better MPG

 

[spankrjs]

Interestingly enough, the Scrambler gets about 15-16MPG. T176, 2.73's, and 31x10.50's.

My green CJ-7 with MC2100 (46 jets, 1.08 venturi) and Team Rush ignition, T176, 2.73's, and 31x10.50's gets about 12-13 MPG.

I think when all the stuff is working the Jeep runs great, has plenty of power, and gets good MPG. The problem is, there are so many components that there is always going to be something wrong with the system as a whole and once one thing goes wrong performance falls apart.

My tan CJ-7 has run great since I had all the crap taken off, and doesn't require constant maint like it did when all the emissions crap was in place, but when I bought in (in 1993 with 29K on it) it ran as good as it does now and was all OEM. Once that stuff starts going bad it's all over with.

With the way Raymond is doing it with all new stuff I'll bet it will be good to go for a long time.

On Jeep CJ's, it has been my experience, if they are kept stock/stock size tires, they get decent MPG. If they are tuned up running good, they get better MPG then either of the 05 TJ Rubicons I have owned

With the feedback system, just like fuel injection, if something is not working, power and MPG suffer. The Carter feedback sytem does have a bunch of parts that can go bad, compared to the pre '83 models

I am actually mainly using original to this Scrambler or used parts on this emission system restoration. Quick parts summary:

MCU - original to the Scrambler
Wire Harness - used harness from JeeperDD
Air Cleaner Vacuum motors - original to the Scrambler
Intake manifold heater - original to the Scrambler
Intake manifold heater temp sender - original to the Scrambler
Intake manifold heater relay - original to the Scrambler
Carter BBD Carb - original to the Scrambler
Stepper Motor - NEW, I dropped and broke the original stepper motor
Choke - NEW, the original was weak
SolVac relay - used, from "Yard Scrambler II"
Air Cleaner Vacuum door reverse delay valves - used, from "Yard Scrambler I"
Air Cleaner TVS and Reverse Delay Valve - NEW, missing from the Scrambler
EGR CTO - original to the Scrambler
Coolant Temp Switch - original to the Scrambler
Thermal Electric Switch - original to the Scrambler
EGR TVS - original to the Scrambler
Three Vacuum Solenoids - original to the Scrambler
10" and 4" Vacuum Switches - original to the Scrambler
Wide Open Throttle Switch - original to the Scrambler
Vacuum Canister - original to the Scrambler
10" and 4" Vacuum Solenoid Reverse Delay Valve and Vacuum Reservoir - used, from "Yard Scrambler I"
SolVac - NEW, missing from Scrambler when I bought it, the one off "Yard Scrambler I" was broken
Evap Canister - original to the Scrambler (I might install a new one for peace of mind)
Knock Sensor - original to the Scrambler
5 miles of Vacuum hose - NEW

I think that's about it

When I install the Pulse Air system, I am going to try to use the four valves that came off of "Yard Scrambler I". If they don't work, then I will install new ones.

 

[spankrjs]

Random Notes and Thoughts

I kind of lumped all the under hood work I have been doing in one large pile. I originally was just replacing the MCU harness, but decided to fix/install all the under hood systems at the same time.

EGR system - not tied to the MCU system at all. No performance issues, unless it malfunctions
PVC system - not tied to the MCU system at all. No performance issues, just don't want oil leaks


A few things I fixed/verfied they worked properly to make the Scrambler/garage less gas fumy:

Air Cleaner inner trap door - cut down on the carb bowl venting to the atmosphere and stinking up the garage
EVAP canister - keep the gas tank from just venting to the atmosphere and stinking up the garage

I left the lid off the air cleaner overnight while the Scrambler was in the garage the other day. It smelled like raw gas really bad. Wont do that again!!!!!


Before I started all this work, my computer was going into closed loop mode, and controlling the carb via the O2 sensor. So, once warmed up, everything worked fine.

With a carb, they run best once the engine is fully warmed up. That's why I did the following:

TAC system outer trap door - should help warm the engine/carb up faster (Not really tied to MCU)
Intake manifold heater - should help warm the engine/carb up faster (Not really tied to MCU)
Replaced/adjusted choke - should help warm the engine/carb up faster (Kind of tied to MCU, but not really)

I hooked back up the SolVac, and now that it functions, I like it. On a less then cold/no choke restart, the temporary slightly higher staged idle speeds really helps smooth everything out, especially with a 650 RPM curb idle speed

The EGR pipe replacement/installed correctly got rid of a slight exhaust leak, so that was good

The Pulse Air System is controlled by the MCU, not really a performance device, unless it malfunctions and dumps exhaust down the carb Still need to hook this up, the last "piece of the puzzle", so to speak.

So, I hope all this work will help the Scrambler warm up faster, and idle better on a hot restart. I was happy with the "once warmed up" performance, nothing should have changed with that

I am going to readjust the timing and the four idle speeds tonight, then go drive this thing

Work left to complete, in the near/far future:

1) New EVAP canister - if I can find one (think I did)
2) Pulse Air System/Cat install - one of these days when I get bored
3) Replace stupid plastic valve cover with an aluminum one, my new Mopar plastic one, installed a couple of years ago, is leaking a little
4) Rebuild T5/Dana 300 - T5 has slight bearing noise once hot, front output bearing in Dana 300 is loose

That's it, for now

 

[spankrjs]

A few last pictures from this round of under hood work.

I went back and set the timing/four idle speeds last night. It had been awhile since I looked at the timing, went to set it and all I see are the timing lines, with no numbers next to them, on the timing chain cover. So, stuck the phone down there and took a picture, what do you know, the numbers are there:

I set the timing to 8 degrees at 1,600RPM, with the distributor vacuum advance/4'-10" vacuum solenoid disconnected. My under hood sticker said 6 degrees plus/minus 2, seemed happier at 8. It was at around 15, and actually seemed fine there

I also adjusted the four idle speeds, set to my under hood sticker:

Choke fast idle - 1,700RPM (seems too high IMO, might back this off) (set with EGR unplugged/capped)
Curb Idle - 650 RPM (with everything hooked up except SolVac)
SolVac vacuum portion - 950 RPM (I adjusted this immediately following a hot restart)
SolVac Electric portion - 750 (I adjusted this while it was energized)

Anyway, Scrambler strarts/runs/drives fine, so I guess everything is okie dokie

The TAC door seems to be working. IIRC, it will still not open just sitting there idling, you have to drive it some before it opens. Quick picture after driving the Scrambler about 3 miles, engine running, both doors open as they should be:

And one last under hood picture, a few more feet of vacuum hose compared to when I started, and the eventual Pulse Air system restoration will add some more, getting busy around the air cleaner

That's it for now

 

[LetchcoreCJ7]

Have you googled "Jeep CJ Adventures Under the Hood"? BTW I have the guys spring special and he documented the mpg of every tank often getting above 20 mpg with factory emissions.

 

[Ron84cj]

My 84 had all the factory stuff under the hood up until about 2 years ago. The only problem I really had was the carter carb really not liking ethenol gas, so I swapped on a 32/36 weber and ditched all the emission stuff. Power and mpg did not change one bit. But the weber tolerates the crappy gas better

 

[spankrjs]

Have you googled "Jeep CJ Adventures Under the Hood"? BTW I have the guys spring special and he documented the mpg of every tank often getting above 20 mpg with factory emissions.

Yes, his site, coupled with the FSM, and time spent "getting dirty" under the hood really helped me understand/diagnose all this stuff



You actually own that guys Spring Special now That is pretty cool



But, I guess I always "romanticized" in my mind that guy was still out there driving that same '85 Spring Special, keeping up the good fight of daily driving a feedback Carter BBD Carb equipped CJ Maybe I will just keep believing that he is



As for 20MPG, I believe it, I have gotten slightly better then that in this one on 65 mph highway trips. Around town driving, usually average around 16 mpg

My 84 had all the factory stuff under the hood up until about 2 years ago. The only problem I really had was the carter carb really not liking ethenol gas, so I swapped on a 32/36 weber and ditched all the emission stuff. Power and mpg did not change one bit. But the weber tolerates the crappy gas better

Yes, I discovered the same thing in regards to ethanol gas Lucky for me, there are lots of gas stations around here that sell ethanol free gas The Carter definitely runs better on the "straight stuff"

I have never messed with a Weber, but have had good luck with the Carters and Motorcrafts.

 

[LetchcoreCJ7]

Yes, his site, coupled with the FSM, and time spent "getting dirty" under the hood really helped me understand/diagnose all this stuff



You actually own that guys Spring Special now That is pretty cool



But, I guess I always "romanticized" in my mind that guy was still out there driving that same '85 Spring Special, keeping up the good fight of daily driving a feedback Carter BBD Carb equipped CJ Maybe I will just keep believing that he is



As for 20MPG, I believe it, I have gotten slightly better then that in this one on 65 mph highway trips. Around town driving, usually average around 16 mpg







Yes, I discovered the same thing in regards to ethanol gas Lucky for me, there are lots of gas stations around here that sell ethanol free gas The Carter definitely runs better on the "straight stuff"

I have never messed with a Weber, but have had good luck with the Carters and Motorcrafts.

Well he was really good at keeping it running but he lived in Akron Oh and he must not have been good with paint because there was toothpick size pieces of steel holding the engine to the frame. When I pulled the motor the frame fell in half. I kept everything worth saving to build one day.

I like the idea of knowing how it all works and I have been saving good emissions stuff off part outs. So one day I can do proper restorations.

 

[Randyzzz]

Again- I am so impressed with the time and effort you are taking to restore the stock emissions system. I have never restored emissions "stuff", only removed it. Then again, I don't think anything I've ever owned has kept the stock engine for long, either. I'm already looking at a 6.0 for the Gladiator that I haven't bought yet!

 

[spankrjs]

Well he was really good at keeping it running but he lived in Akron Oh and he must not have been good with paint because there was toothpick size pieces of steel holding the engine to the frame. When I pulled the motor the frame fell in half. I kept everything worth saving to build one day.

I like the idea of knowing how it all works and I have been saving good emissions stuff off part outs. So one day I can do proper restorations.

Well, that is cool you were able to at least save "pieces" of the CJ7 that spawned the "Adventures Under the Hood" site

Definitely save all the doo-hickies you can, some of them are tough to find. The pre 4.0 YJ's have some of the same stuff as the CJ's, so another good source of parts

Does the "Adventures Under the Hood" guy have another CJ/Jeep

Again- I am so impressed with the time and effort you are taking to restore the stock emissions system. I have never restored emissions "stuff", only removed it. Then again, I don't think anything I've ever owned has kept the stock engine for long, either. I'm already looking at a 6.0 for the Gladiator that I haven't bought yet!

Appreciate it Randy This is the first time I have ever installed/hooked this stuff back up. I still prefer the MPI on my Red Scrambler, for performance and reliability

 

[spankrjs]

In my best Britney voice, "Whoops, I did it again.." LOL

Hard to see, but that's yet another T5 down. All the past T5 experience helps greatly, only took about 2-2.5 hours start/finish to have it on the ground

This T5 has not catastrophically failed, just a little noisy. Judging from the "Borg and Beck" stamped pressure plate, plastic front bearing retainer stamped "Borg Warner", I don't think this T5 has ever hit the ground in its 120,000+ miles.

I bought this Scrambler back in 2009 from the second owner, this is actually my first Scrambler. But, since 2009, this Scrambler has been patiently waiting, while I completely rebuilt my red Scrambler, completely rebuilt Tommy's YSI, rebuilt/modified/repaired my Tan Scrambler, put Josh's tan Scrambler back together, got YSII running, plus swapped out 5-6 transmissions in the red Scrambler I am sure I am forgetting some stuff, too

Anyway, this one is in great shape, but does need some work. The clutch is weak, the T5 is noisy, the front output shaft bearing in the Dana 300 is loose, and the engine feels tired. I have been meaning to work on this one, but other stuff kept popping up, and I kept on procrastinating. Since my surgery, I have been trying not to keep putting stuff off, never know how much time you have left. So, after replacing my red Scrambler's engine, I decided to immediately jump on this one. I am going to do a pretty good chunk of work to this one, hopefully finish it up before my next CT scan in March

This is my "stock" Scrambler, all though that is not 100% true. It has been repainted back to its original color, repro decals, Moser 1 piece rear axles, 1" Superlift suspension. I am not really modifying this one, never planned on it. This one is to keep close to stock, but it is not so "perfectly original" that I feel like I can't enjoy it, if that makes sense. Anyway, here is the game plan:

1) Engine - I am currently having Hesco rebuild the engine that came out of my red '83 Scrambler. Nothing fancy, just a stock rebuild. I think the block is being bored 40 over to clean it up, crank turned down 10 thousandths.

2) Fuel/Spark Management - I am adding the Hesco/Mopar MPI kit to this engine. I know I spent a long time "restoring" most of the factory emissions/carb/computer on this Scrambler, but the MPI is just so nice. I forgot how much fun my red Scrambler was to drive, this one should be a blast, too, especially with stock tires. I am going to keep all the stock carb/computer/wiring/doo hickies I remove.

3) Clutch - resurfacing a flywheel, adding a new ring gear. Going to replace the clutch with a "stock" type unit, not sure with what, yet. New pilot bushing and throw out bearing, too.

4) T5 - my arch nemesis!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Plan is to just rebuild this one and keep on rocking it. When i disassembled it, though, I found the source of the noise. The cluster gear, where the rear bearing rides, is pitted, which causes the roller bearing to roar. So, going to replace the cluster gear, too. I hope a T5 can stand up to a 258, 3.31 gears, and 30" tires. BUT, I am worried about the increased power from the MPI. I am going to run this T5 till it blows. IF/WHEN it blows, well maybe then we can talk about AX15's. It only took blowing three T5's in my other '83 before I upgraded!!!!

5) Dana 300 - plan on rebuilding it. No upgraded shafts/gearing needed. I haven't tore it down yet, but hopefully all the big expensive stuff is fine, hope so!!!!!

6) Misc. - plan on just mounting an external fuel pump for the MPI. This is the newer style 4.0 injection with just a single line. If it becomes a problem, I might swap to an in tank pump. It's easier to drop the 15 gallon tanks vs the 20 gallon tanks. I am also going to have new exhaust installed. The existing muffler feels really heavy, and all the pipes are just clamped together.


So, a new engine, fuel injection, new clutch, rebuild the T5 and Dana 300, with about 6-7 week time frame. Shouldn't be too bad.

A few quick pictures for posterity.

I had to put this one on jack stands, 1" lift springs and 30" tires does not allow for a lot of room underneath:

Most of the parts out, ready for cleaning:

About 2.5 hours to pull all that stuff, about 8 hours cleaning, and still not finished cleaning!!!!!!!!!! The parts were not really too oily/dirty, but 30 years/120,000+ miles of use made me wish I would have went to work and drug the steam cleaner out.

Since my garage is small, my game plan is:

Step 1 - remove driveshafts/skid plate/transmission+transfer case/bell housing/old clutch
Step 2 - clean all the above stuff
Step 3 - rebuild T5 and Dana 300
Step 4 - remove old engine and all stock carb/computer/emissions stuff
Step 5 - install new engine
Step 6 - install new clutch, install clean/rebuilt bell housing, T5, Dana 300, driveshafts, skid plate
Step 7 - finish all the under hood MPI stuff
Step 8 - drive and enjoy

I will post some updates/pictures of anything interesting, that's it for now

 

[Kane]

Your experiences are the reason why I went through the hassle of installing an AX15 and this justifies my choice.

 

[Bad Karma]

you and T5s!!

 

[spankrjs]

Your experiences are the reason why I went through the hassle of installing an AX15 and this justifies my choice.

Yep, my red Scrambler kept cracking the cases But, the first T5 I put in my red Scrambler held up, until the counter shaft pitted/spalled where the front bearing rode. I am "hoping" I can keep a T5 alive in a stock Jeep, BUT the added power of the MPI could blow it I do like the AX15 I swapped in my red Scrambler

you and T5s!!

But, but, but, I promise, I was nice to this one, its been whining a little since I got it

 

[wm69]

I always refer to your posts when people say "the T5 holds up fine in a CJ if you don't abuse it"

Not really.

 

[Kane]

Yep, my red Scrambler kept cracking the cases But, the first T5 I put in my red Scrambler held up, until the counter shaft pitted/spalled where the front bearing rode. I am "hoping" I can keep a T5 alive in a stock Jeep, BUT the added power of the MPI could blow it I do like the AX15 I swapped in my red Scrambler

I had a stock CJ7 with the T5 and 31's and it held up just fine for years. I guess its the luck of the draw or the age of the transmission at this point. I had that CJ7 from 94-2004

 

[spankrjs]

I always refer to your posts when people say "the T5 holds up fine in a CJ if you don't abuse it"

Not really.

Yep, and I know better then most, so maybe I am playing with fire again

I would still like to believe that a T5 will hold up in a stockish CJ, not driven on rocks, but...............

I had a stock CJ7 with the T5 and 31's and it held up just fine for years. I guess its the luck of the draw or the age of the transmission at this point. I had that CJ7 from 94-2004

Yep, age and miles definitely take their toll.

The case that came out of this one seems perfect, and both the counter shaft bearings will have to be pressed into the case, that's how tight the bores are. The other cases I was using were a little looser in the bores, so I am sure that did not help matters

I am hoping 30" street tires and MPI fuel injection don't kill it. If I get 5 years out of it I will consider it a success

I am going to dig back in my spares box, I might be able to throw another spare transmission together

 

[spankrjs]

Just a few quick T5 pictures. I am still in the "parts cleaning/waiting on parts phase".

The original Borg Warner aluminum front bearing retainer. I might just reuse it, it is still 100% perfect. I do have a steel front bearing retainer somewhere, though:

This transmission still had the original Borg Warner ID plate on it. Kind of reinforces my belief the tranmission had never been pulled out. The "13-52-017" means it was built for a 1982 Jeep CJ with a 258. This Scrambler is an '83 model, the original owner purchased it new in October of '82, so it makes sense that an '83 model CJ bought new in '82 would have an '82 model transmission from Borg Warner.

And some carnage pictures.

You can see the pits/spalling on the counter shaft where the rear bearing rides:

And the corresponding pits/damage to the roller bearings:

So far, this is the only damage I have found, and this would definitely cause the bearing noise I was hearing.

Still have some more parts cleaning to do, then I can inspect everything. In hindsight, since I do/have done so much of this kind of stuff, I wish I would have bought a parts washer about 10 years ago LOL!!!!!!!!

Pretty nifty AMC T5 video I found on the internet the other day, kind of cool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjVuaFYOaEE

That's it for now