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82 UK Spec Laredo Scrambler Build No 2

Nice!

Can you move the rad up?
My thought too. Can you slot the holes enough to move it up a half inch or so?

Its only ally so would slot or re-drill easily just not sure how much material i have to go at or the clearance above it without looking.

Hopefully the 1" body lift will be enough to cure these issues, also means the intended 33s should fit that little bit easier too i hope!
 
Its only ally so would slot or re-drill easily just not sure how much material i have to go at or the clearance above it without looking.

Hopefully the 1" body lift will be enough to cure these issues, also means the intended 33s should fit that little bit easier too i hope!
A 1” body lift can make so many things easier/fit better. I tried my current build without, and eventually gave in and added the spacers.
 
Body lift landed and installed, huge difference everywhere now i think it needed one anyway as @Randyzzz stated think it will make lots of things easier.

The radiator lower hose is certainly no longer a problem, the D300 locknut and shaft that holds the transfer shift lever is still too close to the body tub for my liking though.
Not sure whether to lower the transfer case a little to get it to clear or could shift it sideways just a little, just dont want to screw up the clearance for the front prop shaft its all very close as it is.
Either that or maybe a power bulge in the floor or make a bulged access panel that way i can undo the D300 shifter locknut more easily or i could simply just lop the end off the shaft that holds the lever!.
Will have a beer and think about this one a bit more....
 
Some pics Lower hose clearance, Need to find an ever so slightly longer hose here as well,

20220603_153223_resized.jpg

Dropped the transfer box about 1/2inch to get some clearance even now its quite close but not as close as it looks on the photo.
Once i get round to sanding all the welding off it may help too i guess :unsure:
20220603_153248_resized.jpg
 
Spent today trying to get some of the rats nest of wiring sorted out, Started out with the Chevy bit so the ECU has a home now near to the boy racer air filter arrangement!.
That side is near enough done so removed the fender to make a start on the other side, purely to make life easier to get to the starter motor.
I need to run a battery cable all the way around the engine bay to get to this thanks to the battery tray being as far away as it could be this being RHD!

20220603_153353_resized.jpg20220603_153359_resized.jpg20220603_153418_resized.jpg
 
More wiring done today,i used this fusebox i found on Amazon to collect all the Chevy bits together.
It has 2 seperate fused ways on it so the ignition feeds are on one side and the always hot on the other side and plenty of places for grounds.
Its not the prettiest thing in the world and i would rather of hidden it somewhere else but without extending lots of cable and the possibility of faults due to extending so many cables then thats where its ended up.
Not sure i like it so i might rethink this when i strip it back down for painting but at least its up out of the way and easily accessible.
Big relay next to it is for the starter motors solenoid.
All i have left to do on the wiring now is to get the original CJ wiring loom to interface with the Chevy bit, all the lighting and then mopping up whats left,but at least its starting to take some sort of shape now.
Was hoping to get it running again this weekend, but as per usual running out of time now...


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Found what i think is a nice solution for my bigger connections with a fuse box mounted on the battery itself using a bit of copper bar and a clamp with a stud on it.
Bent a bit more copper bar to act as a ground bar, drilled and tapped it thus solving a lot of issues i thought i had keeping this wiring tidy.
Hung an ignition relay on the bar as well to power the fuse box on the other side, i didn't want to risk overloading the standard ignition switch as i have absolutely no idea at all what its rated at...
There is a lid there that covers the fuse box and i will sort out and tidy the rats nest of wires properly later on when the final build happens including lengthening that cable that crosses the battery, that short cable is really annoying me quite a lot for some reason.

20220611_153247_resized.jpg
 
Started filling the tub to try and get some sort of flatness back in it but before i weld this up does anyone know what this hole above the J was for?, it looks factory and is in an odd place to drill through later on?.

20220619_180724_resized.jpg
 
Found what i think is a nice solution for my bigger connections with a fuse box mounted on the battery itself using a bit of copper bar and a clamp with a stud on it.
Bent a bit more copper bar to act as a ground bar, drilled and tapped it thus solving a lot of issues i thought i had keeping this wiring tidy.
Hung an ignition relay on the bar as well to power the fuse box on the other side, i didn't want to risk overloading the standard ignition switch as i have absolutely no idea at all what its rated at...
There is a lid there that covers the fuse box and i will sort out and tidy the rats nest of wires properly later on when the final build happens including lengthening that cable that crosses the battery, that short cable is really annoying me quite a lot for some reason.

View attachment 103118
Looks great! Easy to access too.

No idea on the hole. Antenna maybe? But I’m just guessing.
 
Antenna is on the other side, maybe they had a CB or similar?
Found a photo from when i bought it, somethings been there but then filled in?. Not to worry will get it welded up just curious as to what it could of been for.


Jeep (7) c.JPG
 
Possibly a CB or other type of communication antenna?
 
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