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No ignition Houston

GreatCJ8

Charter Member
Gold Member
City
Lynchburg
State
VA
OK this thing is possessed...
No clicking, headlights disengage with ignition turned, unplugged nsf, replugged no difference. Battery maintained via trickle charger, starter Does engage with a screwdriver across solenoid method otherwise nothing.
New solenoid
New pos battery cable
pic for fun lolpisajeep.jpg
 
Last edited:

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
Neutral safety switch could explain the no crank. But if the ign switch is in the “run” position, then jumping the starter should start it up. IGN switch failure or possibly loose on column and not allowing the rod to fully actuate it? Sorta debunked by the lights dropping out in the start position but other than that I don’t know.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Neutral safety switch could explain the no crank. But if the ign switch is in the “run” position, then jumping the starter should start it up. IGN switch failure or possibly loose on column and not allowing the rod to fully actuate it? Sorta debunked by the lights dropping out in the start position but other than that I don’t know.
I would check what Randy said first, NSS and ignition switch :thumbsup:
 

GreatCJ8

Charter Member
Gold Member
City
Lynchburg
State
VA
But if the ign switch is in the “run” position, then jumping the starter [solenoid] should start it up.
Solenoid is new, same as NSS, it DOes start when the solenoid is crossed... I'll look into the ig switch
 

bigwalton

Alaskan Postal nutjob
FORUM MANAGER
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
Pull and sand each battery connection. This screams cable/post issue on the battery side of the solenoid or a ground. Including the new one. Seen wires bad out of the box too.

Use jumper cables to bypass every connection from the battery to the starter on both ground and positive and see what you get.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
I would verify 12V is getting to the start signal on the solenoid. If not trace back to NSS and ignition. It would be pretty easy to put the start signal wire on the wrong post of the solenoid.
 

GreatCJ8

Charter Member
Gold Member
City
Lynchburg
State
VA
OK, still at it. Learning as this issue is not my Forte....
Currently I have no spark between battery and S on solenoid.
New positive battery cable, new solenoid. Tried another solenoid too.

In the bottom pic, what is the connector touching the brown Tran dipstic 20230228_132336.jpg20230228_132328.jpg
 
Last edited:

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
City
Palm Bay
State
FL
OK, still at it. Learning as this issue is not my Forte....
Currently I have no spark between battery and S on solenoid.
New positive battery cable, new solenoid. Tried another solenoid too.

In the bottom pic, what is the connector touching the brown Tran dipstic View attachment 108298View attachment 108299
Can you post a better picture of the solenoid?
Also, can you identify each wire that connects to the 4 posts identified on the solenoid, as well as the NSS terminal.
solenoid.png

Once we know where each wire originates/terminates it will be easier to offer a step by step testing procedure.
 

Dave The Sparky

Rebuilding my CJ8 very,very slowly...
Member
City
Halifax
State
UK
If its a factory auto the starter solenoid is different, it has a third post for a black wire which gives the ground to the starter solenoid when in park and neutral
I cannot see this on your photo?.

neutralswitch.png
 

Mancunian

Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
City
Bridgeport
State
WV
Agree with Dave - here's mine - TF999 Auto, note the third connector on the left.

I really need to get a new solenoid, also and to hijack the thread a bit - does anyone have a good source for the female connectors for these. The usual stuff you find is cheap and nasty.
 

Attachments

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GreatCJ8

Charter Member
Gold Member
City
Lynchburg
State
VA
If its a factory auto the starter solenoid is different, it has a third post for a black wire which gives the ground to the starter solenoid when in park and neutral
I cannot see this on your photo?.

View attachment 108318
If you're referring to the one on the bottom then yeah it has that.

I took the bulkhead plug off for the fuse panel, from the engine side. Tried to clean it up, lots of old grease and dielectric mud..

Is there an inline fuse somewhere?
Could the new old body have lost ground @Jeeperdd ? I'm confused why I now get no spark between hot & s
 
Last edited:

Jeeperdd

CJ-8 Member
Silver Member
SOA Member
City
Gordonsville
State
VA
Plug the four wheel drive/ reverse light indicator connector back in…

The neutral safety switch in the transmission uses that connector to get to the starter solenoid. Without it the jeep will not start.
 
Last edited:

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
City
Palm Bay
State
FL
solenoid.png

Okay, assuming these are correct:
#1 Starter Motor
#2 Ignition Coil (Full12v output)
#3 Ignition Switch (switched "Start" position)
#4 Battery 12v (+), Ignition Switch (12v + feed)
#5 (Not Shown) NSS (-) switched input

Diagnostic Steps:
Use a test light, analog or digital volt meter set to DC (if using a meter pay attention to voltage scale and polarity)

1 Disconnect starter motor lead from terminal #1 (this will help protect draining the battery as well as avoiding any injuries from moving parts)

2 Test to confirm voltage available at battery posts.

3 With trans in Neutral or Park test voltage with positive lead on terminal #4 and negative lead on #5, this should correspond to the battery voltage in step 2.
3a If not connect positive test lead to #4 and negative test lead to battery negative post. If voltage corresponds to step 2 voltage the NSS is not providing ground to the solenoid.
3b Connect a temporary jumper (wire or black lead of jumper cable) from battery negative post to #5 NSS post on solenoid.

4 While an assistant turns ignition key to "start" test voltage with positive lead on #1 and negative lead on ground (battery negative post or NSS #5), solenoid should "click" and battery voltage should be available at #1
4a If no voltage is at #1 relocate positive test lead to terminal #3 (while ignition switch is in "start" position)
4b If no voltage is available at #3 the issue is with the ignition wiring.
4c Jump power from #4 to #3 at solenoid, solenoid should "click" and voltage should be available between #1 and ground
4d You have now effectively run 12vdc to the solenoids coil, if it still doesn't "click" or supply voltage is not present at #1 the solenoid is defective.

5 If you have gotten to this point and have things functioning as expected one final test would be to confirm you have battery voltage from #2 to ground when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.

6 Once all tests pass the starter motor lead can be reconnected to #1 and the starter should function properly. If not there is a problem with the starter's 12v +, ground, or starter itself.

HTH
 

bigwalton

Alaskan Postal nutjob
FORUM MANAGER
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
3b Connect a temporary jumper (wire or black lead of jumper cable) from battery negative post to #5 NSS post on solenoid.

This. This is how I got my Postal to start in the back lot at the shop in Anchorage after buying it.

The PO parked it because he thought the ignition box was going bad when it was getting finicky to start and all it needed was a scrap of wire to do this.

I left that jumper wire in place for years before finally replacing the NSS.
 
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