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Here is good info on the various pedals: https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/measurements-data-for-cj-to-yj-brake-swap.377653/

In Texas, I have seen those drive up places put the straw in, but you have to keep the paper condom on it, or it would be an open container.

I would NOT use that as a winch or recovery point. The part where the pin secures it to the hitch is thin sheet metal. Not a solid chunk of metal. Very high probability of failure if loaded too high.

New clutches and steels will have some wear when breaking in. If it has line pressure, and shifts properly, just run it. Be sure to properly adjust the valve linkage as well as the shift linkage. The second linkage runs to a valve that adjusts line pressure up and down depending on throttle...

Technically they still have breweries in America. I don’t think they claimed to be the oldest American owned brewery. Go Abita & K. Spoetzl!

Here is the one I use, if I am not wrapping a soft shackle around an axle which is my first choice for winch point:

I think the open hook would be just as dangerous as looping over the trailer ball. It might be marginally safer in that it will fail at a lower load than the ball and might cause less damage.. What you don’t want is this...

https://www.factor55.com/products/hitchlink-2-0

It is not uncommon for old coolant to look rusty or just yucky. Drain it, flush the system with a water hose, then fill it with new coolant. It would be good preventative maintenance to replace the thermostat and water pump if the coolant looks bad. Remove the thermostat to do a good thorough...

First, welcome. You found a great resource for helping to get this Overlander back on the road. I assume it is an automatic transmission. If so, it will be the Chrysler TF999. I am not sure why it would be smoking, even under an extreme load. My guess is it got hot and is just burning off...

I have seen this first hand. Side terminals melted of the battery on a low stress straight line pull.

You have the mechanical linkage setup. There will be a rod that exits the firewall towards the bottom at about 45 degrees then goes to a horizontal tube. On the other end of the tube will be another rod that runs back to the bellhousing. There it pushes on the clutch fork and the other end...

The factory 4 cylinder had a hydraulic clutch. The factory 6 cylinder had a linkage rod clutch. It is common for the bushings in the rods to wear and cause engagement issues. Also flexing during wheeling can cause issues with the linkage. The hydraulic setup does not have these issues.

I could never get that tool to work. I had better results holding the front button in. https://www.cj-8.com/threads/brake-adjustment.7547/#post-44347

Are CJ-8s rare? No Are they less common than CJ-7s? Yes Can you decode option on a Jeep? Generally, no. You have 3EB seats, which are slate blue. This eliminates a Laredo as being possible. That makes it either a Base model or Renegade (SR). Slate Blue is a generally rare color and desirable...

To bleed the brakes you need to disable the proportioning valve slide by holding the “button” depressed at the front. If you don’t do this, the valve thinks there is a problem and will shut off flow to the ‘leaking’ line.

Very nice. Interesting that it is left hand drive and also has the UK spec mirror. I don’t think I have seen that style of mirror on anything but right hand drive versions.

The side facing seats were called Troop Seating. Some had roll bars, others did not. For the Overlander some had CJ-8 diameter bars and others were CJ-7 diameter. Mine is a CJ-7 diameter. They really were odd one offs. Which is why I like them so much.

Striped seats are the indicator it is Laredo. The best you can do is look at the firewall tag under the hood to see if those seats are original. The wagon version was only offered outside the USA. It is known as a world cab and was available on -7 and -8 models. Very common in South America.

You know, as deep in this that you are, it would not be that much harder to just drop a 5.3 LS in there. :wave: