Not going to do a step by step, but I finished up the clutch install and some other work today.
Changed out the clutch fork and installed a new release bearing. The fork had some wear where the adjuster rod pressed against it, and the two little "tits" that help secure the release bearing were gone on the old fork. I actually planned ahead and bought a new fork a few weeks ago, just in case. After my pilot bushing fiasco this go around, I either have in my possession/in transit enough pilot bushings for a 4.0 to last a lifetime, I hope!!!
I am using a 258 flywheel and clutch disc/pressure plate. I wrap the end of the clutch alignment tool with electric tape to build up its OD to match up with the 4.0 pilot bushing ID of .75.
Installing this transmission in this Scrambler is a huge PIA. I have to leave the bell housing bolted to the transmissions adapter plate, since the bell housing bolts to the adapter plate/transmission from inside the bell housing. So, instead of aligning just the transmission/transfer case to the bell housing, I have to align the entire bell housing/transmission/transfer case to the engine block. To me, this sucks. It is much easier for me to line up and bolt a transmission to an already installed bell housing. It is a bit harder to get to the bell housing to block bolts vs transmission to bell housing bolts.
Thankfully, I have only had to remove/install this transmission a few times. But, every time, it will NOT simply slide all the way home. The last 1" is a bitch. Even with spline lube and some oil on the pilot bushing/tip of input shaft, the damn thing just will not push in. I know you are not supposed to do this, but I always have to pull it in the last 1" using the 7/16" block to bell housing bolts. I will loosely install a longer 3/8" bolt at the top center location to keep everything centered. Then, easily tighten a 7/16" bolt on each side to bring it home.
It does NOT require brute force. I simply easily tighten each bolt a few turns with a 3/8" ratchet. I am not forcing it, not going to break the block or strip out the cast in place threads. This is how I have to install this transmission in this Scrambler. No amount of brute force/pushing/pulling/bouncing/twisting/praying will do it. This is the least destructive way for me to do it. Like I said, the bolts easily turn and bring it home, no drama.
Now, I was curious to see if pulling the transmission into place with the two bolts might have disturbed/damaged the pilot bushing, or even forced it out of its adapter "donut". So, pulled the transmission back out far enough to take this picture:
No damage, the bushing is still flush with the transmission side of the adapter donut, so no harm, no foul. Reinstalled the transmission, and again had to bring it home the last 1" with a bolt on each side.
I know you are not supposed to do this, so the next time I have to pull this transmission someone wiser then me can come and show me how to reinstall it without having to bring it home with the bolts!!!!!
Quick recap, so I will remember what all I did in a few years LOL:
New 4.0 pilot bushing
New 258 flywheel/clutch disc/pressure plate
New HD 258/T5 throwout bearing
New 258 clutch fork
Drained and refilled the AX15, Valvoline MTF
Drained and refilled the Dana 300, gear oil
Cleaned/re-greased driveshafts/CV/u-joints
When the entire drive line was removed, I went ahead and spent a couple of hours cleaning 50,000+ miles of grease/dirt/mud and crud from the under body and the inside side of the frame rails. More OCD then anything else, but it is all nice and clean again, and I can see all the red paint again!!! The drive shaft u-joints/rear CV are the worse grease slingers. After I regrease these items, I spend a bunch of time removing all the old/excess grease to keep it from flinging everywhere. But, it doesn't matter. With the amount of highway miles I travel at high speeds, grease is always flinging out the u-joint/slip shaft/CV seals. Also, I have had various oil leaks over the years which help contribute to the undercoat. So, while everything was removed, I cleaned it all up. It won't stay clean, but it will be easier to keep up with a clean slate. IF I was building a Jeep that would not get wheeled, sealed u-joints and CV joint would help keep the undercarriage clean. But since this Jeep sees lots of road/off road usage, the greaseable stuff is the only way to go IMO.
After it was all back together, quick test drive between rain showers. New clutch works perfect and smooth, no noise or vibrations, thank God!!! And, with a new flywheel/ring gear, my starter is nice and quiet.
So, a huge PIA/amount of work for a $3.48 pilot bushing, but it made all the difference in the world.
Realistically, I could have reused the flywheel/clutch/release bearing, BUT if I have to pull all this stuff out, no way I go back with the old stuff!!!
So, that is the big thing off my to do list. I still need to look at my front engine accessories and see if something else up here contributed to the recent water pump failure.
That's it for now
