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Belizeit's 1984 CJ-7 Engine Swap/Upgrade

:shrug: As my dad use to say over 50 years ago. “ one of those mysterious things “ When my older brother or I could not come up with a good answer to his question. I definitely don’t have a good answer about the bolts.
 
spankrjs said:
Win some, lose some. Two steps forward, three steps back :banghead:

Th easy fix first. I noticed the front output shaft end play on the Dana 300 seemed a bit excessive. Checked it with the dial indicator:

View attachment 105853

The FSM states the range is .001 to .005. It is at the end of the range now, with new bearings. I always like to set these up a bit closer to the tighter end of the scale. Easy enough to adjust now, before I install the front driveshaft or fill the Dana 300 with gear oil!!!!!!! Takes longer to clean up all the old sealant/dig through the shims then to actually adjust. Anyway, swapped one of the shims oyt, got it where I want it:

View attachment 105855

The hard fix, easy part first. The engine has been leaking coolant from the front end. Little puddles on top of the water pump. Easy enough fix, snug up the two thermostat bolts that were only finger tight:

View attachment 105854

That stopped the top end leak, but it was still leaking below the thermostat housing. The three "easy to get to" water pump bolts were also only finger tight, easy fix.

The problem: the fourth PIA bolt is about impossible to get to with the pulley/fan clutch installed (magnetic stick pointing to PIA bolt):

View attachment 105857

View attachment 105856

I was able to turn it about 10 degrees easily, but that is all I can do, due to interference with between the box end wrench/pulley/timing chain cover face. Since the other three bolts were loose, I have no reason to believe this one was torqued correctly. So, unfortunately, need to drain radiator, pull fan shroud and radiator, reattach the alternator/mounting brackets and tighten both drive belts, remove the fan clutch nuts that I red Lock-Tighted to the studs, loosen the accessories and remove the belts, remove pulley, fan and clutch, and tighten this one bolt :banghead:

These parts were installed on the engine before I got it, in hind sight I should have checked this stuff out BEFORE installing the fan/clutch. Live and learn 🤬

Not really hard/time consuming to go back and do, just sucks going backwards. BUT, easier to fix/know it is correct now, versus when I first start this engine up and try to break it in :twocents:

That's it for now :wave:
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I feel for you. I had to replace the air injection valves on my tundra. They are located under the intake manifold. Got everything thing replaced, buttoned up. Then I had a lean burn condition. Turns out I missed ONE vacuum line UNDER the intake manifold. Needless to say, I had to do the job twice. At least in your case you can blame a previous technician, in my case I have to face the offending party every time I look in the mirror.
 
Belizeit said:
:shrug: As my dad use to say over 50 years ago. “ one of those mysterious things “ When my older brother or I could not come up with a good answer to his question. I definitely don’t have a good answer about the bolts.
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No worries :thumbsup:
 
ag4ever said:
I feel for you. I had to replace the air injection valves on my tundra. They are located under the intake manifold. Got everything thing replaced, buttoned up. Then I had a lean burn condition. Turns out I missed ONE vacuum line UNDER the intake manifold. Needless to say, I had to do the job twice. At least in your case you can blame a previous technician, in my case I have to face the offending party every time I look in the mirror.
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I have done many a bone headed thing 😆
 
Drained the radiator, reassembled the alternator bracket assembly, tightened both belts, removed radiator hoses, pulled fan shroud and radiator, loosened fan nuts, loosened belts, removed fan and pulley - there it is:

20221005_185558.jpg

And it was tight :rotfl::crazy:

Oh well, at least I can sleep well tonight. Put it all back together, refilled with coolant, no leaks so far :fingerscrossed:

Was feeling pretty good about myself, so decided to clean out all the yoke threaded holes in preparation for reinstalling the drive shafts. On the last hole, Dana 30 yoke, tap broke off inside the hole :birthday:

Not even going to try to get it out, I will hopefully be able to pick up a new yoke/seal/nut tomorrow :popcorn:

Should have quit while I was ahead.......
 
Pulled the old front pinion yoke and seal out. This broken tap is not budging:

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The old yoke had some wear grooves, so maybe not the end of the world that the tap broke!!!

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I had a spare new yoke in my go box, picked up a front pinion oil seal from NAPA:

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Installed and torqued:

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Bolted in both drive shafts, greased the slip joints, called it a night :wave:
 
Good the yoke was shot. There are tap removal tools. They look finicky but I have been pretty lucky using them. Millwright at work turned me on to them.
 
It was one of my Craftsman taps that I bought in the late 90's. I have probably used this tap a million times cleaning out yoke threads, I guess it was time :(
 
Really like the Craftsman Kromedge 5201 series set. Can still find them in good shape on Ebay. Both my boys have the SAE set. I have the metric set 52095 as well..harder to find but out there.
 
I love my Craftsman tools. I've had many since high school. I bought them for their lifetime warranty; I just never guessed it would be for Sears' lifetime.
 
Chamba said:
I love my Craftsman tools. I've had many since high school. I bought them for their lifetime warranty; I just never guessed it would be for Sears' lifetime.
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Right, so much cheaper than Matco, Mac, Snap-on. In the early 90's Matco had a thing with my post high school Tech School where I could by their tools cheaper than the truck owners could. You had to pay cash though, no financing, worked OK for me. At least Lowes and Ace Hardware still sell them.
 
Unfortunately even the quality of Craftsman is not the same. Their quality started going downhill 20-30 years before Sears was gone. Actually I don’t have a set of tap and die. The ones I have are a mix of names, of some names I have not heard of also, but I have had them 45 years or longer getting them from my dad so I know they are probably 50 to 80 years old. All with made in USA. Names like Greenfield, AT-OCT, CENTURY, B&Co. USS, CR LM STAR U K JR STAR ACE HANDY. DAYTON and a couple of old CRAFTSMAN
 
Worked on this one some more this past weekend.

Filled up the T176 and Dana 300 with the included gear oil:

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Figured out the hydraulic clutch line issue, brain fart on my end.

What came with the Novak kit:

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This end threads directly into a fitting that came already attached to the slave cylinder, easy enough:

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On the master cylinder end, you use one of the included copper tubes and the included compression fitting. I used the tube that came pre-bent like this:

20221008_095829.jpg

Routed the cable up from the slave cylinder, close to the firewall, over the steering shaft, then around and up to the master cylinder. The line is a little long, but no issues. I wrapped the line in some wire loom for additional abrasion protection. I secured the line to the firewall with a metal clip attached to one of the steering column bolts.

20221008_124106.jpg

Underneath the Jeep, the throw out bearing was pressed into the pressure plate, no free play. This was not correct? I adjusted the clutch rod as short as it would go, still no free play. I shimmed the slave cylinder forward from it's mounting bracket with a washer between the two mounting plates, I now have about 3/8" free play. Hard to see in the below pictures, but you can just make out the silver washers between the two black mounting brackets:

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With that done, time to bleed the clutch. I was thinking this might be difficult, but it bled out fast, after I "gravity bled" the system. Clutch is now operable.
 
I removed the rest of the "add-on" wiring:

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I am going to eventually hook up/reinstall the aftermarket tach:

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The only "modified" wire under the hood:

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This is the OEM tach signal wire. It runs from the negative side of the coil connector, through the loom, through the big firewall connector, and under the dash somewhere. I will reuse this wire when I reinstall the aftermarket tach.

Going to start working on the wiring next:

20221008_155719.jpg

That's it for now :wave:
 
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