Eric's Postal Build Thread (was: Postal rebuild thread)

bigwalton

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Yeah, I did the same thing.

I got a bottle of the window polish from a dealership and went at the windows with a new foam ball detailing thing on my drill.

It actually worked quite well and made a big difference, but there was more than any amount of polish would get out. They're definitely usable, but I'm not too worried about any further scratching.

Right now the biggest issue is repairing some seams that have split and patching a couple small holes.
 

bigwalton

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Softtop snaps installed w/ full doors

The weather has gotten to where it's too cold for Laura and Kate to ride in the Scrambler without doors and sides on the top, so I installed the snaps to secure the windows and put the doors on.

I think that the snaps are supposed to go in the angled edge of the tub, but because of either/both the fact that the top is old and my lack of directions to know where to put the bows, I ended up drilling and tapping holes in the body armor. Two snaps fell on top of the armor bolts, but the others fell just fine.

Problems are that the passenger side zipper at the front of the side window is busted, so I put the pull in the middle of the zipper to keep it as closed as possible. Need to get a couple large safety pins or something to help more. If anyone knows of a way to repair separated zippers, let me know.

Also, when I push the rear bow into place, the rear window and corners are apparently pulled to tight for the rear window zippers to work. Both of them were wanting to separate when I tried to rezip them after opening the back the first time after finishing the install. This could be a PITA.

I like the look though and I think my screwball install keeps the height of the top in the rear down for a better overall look compared to the "right" way.







 

ben8jamin

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eric, not to hijack, but sort of related, i noticed that your top looks almost identical to mine... only, i only have two riser bars, the two that are connected at the same mounting plate... that's odd, i wonder if mine is missing from PO or the models are different. i have to think that your setup might work better... hmmmm...

 

bigwalton

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Sure looks the same to me. Mine was used and I sort of had to wing it with the bows. I think I added the front one just because I had one sitting there. No idea how it's supposed to go together. Sticker on the back of mine says "Bestop Dualmatic"
 

Randyzzz

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Eric- looks like a good fit to me. I wouldn't be too concerned about the rear window- All my Jeep's softtops are a bear to close the rear window unless it's above 80 degrees outside.
 

bigwalton

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I have to say, the more I look at it with the top on and windows down, the more it's growing on me. :thumbsup:

I dig it!
 

bigwalton

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Drove it last night for the first time with the top fully on. Worked great and nice and tight with the only flapping in the side windows and much less than I thought it would be, so I was really pleased.

With a little foam tape at the bottom of the door opening, I think it could be pretty darn draftless! :thumbsup:

I do need to try to work on the back windows more with the polish, they're very difficult to see out of at any kind of angle. I'm used to that from the World Cab, but with the World Cab, the windows on the doors make it easy to see the side view mirrors and the big honkin' blind spot mirror I added. With the soft doors, the black border around the window pretty much blocks the mirror and what I can see is difficult to make out because the plastic blurs the image...

Anyone know if a full steel door works with these old Bestop Dualmatics?
 

MrBeep

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Doors

I've put the hard doors on with a soft top before and it worked fairly well. I had a small gap at the top rear corner, but it was a lot better fit than the soft doors. I don't remember what brand of top it was either though.

If I remember correctly, The original "Style" best tops had just the front & rear bows. Later, they added a third bow to help with the "Snow Load" in the center.

I place an electric heater inside the rear of the Jeep to help warm the top to get the zippers closed and more manageable.

I've had limited success at repairing zippers. I have an elderly lady that owns an upholstery shop that repairs mine now for $20. She uses a little tool that actually spreads the zipper slider, installs the tracks, then another little tool that closes it back up. I tried to do it myself and broke the sliders about half the time. It's easier and cheaper for me to take it to her.
 

bigwalton

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My soft doors actually fit shockingly well, with a little foam tape they'd seal up very nicely all the way around.

I really need hard doors for the clear sightline to my mirrors. I'll give another shot at polishing all the windows now that everything is solidly mounted or taught on the Jeep. Last time was with the top just sitting in my lap and I couldn't really bear down on it.

Oh, and I got the back window zippers closed by pulling down on the rear bow while zipping them with the other hand. That took the tension off the zipper and allowed the sides to align. I do have one tooth off on the one that got REAL stuck and I figure it's likely that it will come apart sometime, but for now they're zipped and I can still get the tailgate open with just undoing snaps, so it won't get used again until it's time to take the sides up and top off in the spring most likely.
 

LOST

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Looks great!

I am thinking of going soft too...

Been working so hard that I haven't been here much but it looks great Eric! :thumbsup:
 

bigwalton

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LOST said:
Looks great!

I am thinking of going soft too...

Been working so hard that I haven't been here much but it looks great Eric! :thumbsup:
Thanks man, nice to see you on here! Up there, I would think you'd want to keep the World Cab. The zippers are hard enough to work here in the 50-60° weather!

Any luck on the house?
 

bigwalton

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Next phase: top/doors, audio, storage, headlights, OBA

One lucky thing about my birthday is that it happens to fall near tax season, so since I have my family trained to know that I'll be happiest getting Jeep parts and the tax refund hits about the same time (we try to get ours done early), there's a happy little coincidence for me.

Also, I married the right woman and she says "I think we ought to get a nicer soft top for the Scrambler this year." :thumbsup:

So, since I was ordering the top and paying shipping already, some other goodies are coming with it. Can't wait to see the guy in the brown truck tomorrow :smokin::cool::D

Gonna have some things to get done before the National now...

PS. anyone want a functional soft top and doors with a few issues real cheap? ;)
 

bigwalton

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Sold my top already (obviously asked WAY too little for it!! :crazy:) and the UPS man just showed up :D:cool::smokin::bow:
 

bigwalton

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We have tune-age! Security console installed along with a stereo and speaker pod dealio. Listened to Zeppelin all night while doing other little things.

Need to test/aim new headlights at night...

Cupholder install next and OBA to follow.
 

bigwalton

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Console and cupholders x3

One of the birthday presents was an iVault security console from Quadratec:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/14026_2XX_PG.htm

I had a nearly new stereo sitting on the shelf from the Grand Waggy we owned for a short while and I'd always wanted to put it in the Scrambler after I pulled it out to sell the GW, but I didn't want it in the dash for fear of water running into it.

I was worried about how wide the console would be considering that the postal's e-brake is mounted on the left side of the driver seat mount, but I took a leap and got it anyway.

The width turned out great, I offset the console towards the passenger seat about .75-1" or so and there's plenty of room to reach the e-brake handle.

What didn't work out was the length. You can see in this pic that there's cupholders built in on the front. With those there, the spacing with the tranny shifter pushed the console too far back to the rear. (the tranny shifter is almost as far back as it can get in the tranny cover plate).



So I did a lot of staring at it sitting between the seats, pulled it out and stared at the way it was built and did a lot of head scratching. Moving the shifter forward looked like it would require a totally new linkage (I'd fabbed the linkage when I went to the AW4 and it's worked perfectly, so reworking it didn't sound like fun). It also didn't look like it would get me all the distance I needed because of the tcase shifters.

As much as I didn't want to, I decided I had to hack off the cupholders. With the angle on the section just above them, I could really push the console forward and it looked like the spacing would all work out.

I hated to cut up a brand new console, but I jumped in. The actual cupholder section on top was just tack welded in place, so I cut through the welds with a dremel and popped that piece out in one piece with very little damage, then cut off the wall/floor (the front/sides and bottom area for the cupholders were just continuations of the sides and bottom of the whole thing).

I cleaned up the cut edges and taped off the front of the thing and spraybombed it all black. That totally did the trick, the console slid forward so the back edge is dead even with the backs of the seats and the shifter angle when in 1st gear is perfectly parallel to the front of the console.



I will say, the stereo install took some thinking to work out though. Because you can't really reach up into the console once the stereo is installed, what I did was make long pigtails off the stereo's connector plugs that would reach up through the console so I could plug them up before dropping the stereo into the console. Because of how I wanted to run the wires, I didn't want the big stereo plugs hardwired to the long wires running to the dash so I put in connectors on all the wires next to the passenger seat.

Without any carpet, I didn't know what I was going to do with the wires from the stereo to the speakers and the power to the stereo. I have the flip-forward passenger seat and I really didn't want the wires running all the way across the floor under the seat where they could get pulled or pinched. I was walking through the hardware store looking for ideas and I found some 1/2" electrical conduit and clamps and found my solution.

I'm all about function over form, so I'm sure some folks will think it's cheesy, but I think it looks right at home in a CJ :)

I ran the conduit alongside the tranny tunnel, bending it a bit to follow the contour and put a 90° sweep on the end to take the wires up behind the heater box. They're completely protected and this only left about 3" of the wires exposed between the conduit and the console, which I slapped some corrugated wire loom on.

I put in the Centra-pod and fired it all up :cool:



In this picture, you can see one of the other weekend projects, I drilled and tapped the rollbar for our two sweet gimbaled/swivel drink holders (which I already had and they were the reason I wasn't too worried about losing the console cupholders). They are smooth as silk (actually mount with a sealed ball bearing) and were an awesome find:

http://www.cabelas.com/p-0040884522133a.shtml

As for the cupholders I cut off of the front of the console, I mentioned I didn't really do a lot of damage to them when I removed them and the way they're built the actual functional parts are all welded together into one solid unit. So I looked at them sitting there on the bench and got an idea based on the way our JK is set up with rear cupholders directly behind the console on the floor.

I test fit them on the back of the console and realized that with a little tinkering, they'd be perfect in that spot. So I cut the excess off the "back" edge of the cupholder unit, made a mounting bracket out of some 1" angle I had by shaping the bracket around the cupholders to pick up the bolts in the cupholder and I ended up with something that would bolt to the back of the console with some of the extra bolts/nuts that came with the console.

These are sitting flush on the floor and the vertical cylinders that actually hold the cups are sturdy metal, so they work like a step for Laura getting into her carseat (just like she does with the ones in the JK).

I had to paint the cupholder and bracket I made anyway, so I asked Laura what color she wanted for "her" cupholders and she chose purple.



Laura really digs the end result.

The one other cool little thing from this weekend was, with the old crap/broken stereo out of the dash, I could FINALLY get to the burned out bulb in the oil pressure gauge. Now I have fully lit and completely functional gauges/indicators/lamps, knock on wood (well, except the "4x4" lamp, but that's due to the swap and not bothering to try to make it work).

Also, I got a tranny temp gauge and a remote air pressure gauge for my OBA setup and I test fit them in the hole in the dash from the stereo. They'll fit perfectly in there, so another upcoming project is a cover plate for the radio hole to hold two gauges and some switches :D
 

Truck

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Eric,

Sounds/looks like you had a good weekend of putting stuff together. Console looks good.

Truck
 

bigwalton

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I already want to work out a switch-activated light inside the console, it's a dark pit, even in daylight...

I don't want to fill it up too much, I need someplace to put all the little papers and things that I have to bring home from daycare when I pick up Laura without sides on the top :thumbsup:
 
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