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New to me 83 CJ8 Laredo!!

this is the hole above the drivers side rocker.. I wanna stop this as well with out screwing up the stripes with bond! but how!?:cautious:
 

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bryrambler said:
Yes it does have a rebuilt salvage, Lost unknown. Title. The owner told me that when they ordered a new title they sent that.. he had no Idea why?
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I ran an autocheck early on this one from the license plate (Autocheck doesn't usually get those but it did). It's had a rebuilt/salvage title since 2009. Seller wouldn't comment much other to admit that it had a salvage title. That was my last contact with him. Bryrambler let me know if you want me to PDF a copy to you. They don't give a salvage title for simply replacing a lost title (that's termed a duplicate title on Autocheck). Salvage title isn't the end of the world but can be problematic in some states and hurts resale value. Neither should stop you from having all the fun in the world with it.
 
DeLuke! I would love that.. and thanks so much! I'm not sure the procedure here in Montgomery Texas .. I haven't got that far yet.. I can say after moving here from N.Y. (about 6 months) Most all laws/ordinances are MUCH more lenient here. That said.. I do wanna make this a daily driver, so I hope it works out.
I'm really not so worried about the resale value.. as I plan to keep her FOREVER! :P
 
The bed appears to have pitting from rust. Unless you media blasted it, pretty much assume rust will start back and if under bedliner, the bed will be trashed when you realize you have a problem. POR15 or Eastwood Company have good rust preventative/combatting coatings.
 
bryrambler said:
Listen guys.. we worked out a very fair price that i couldn't pass up. It's the exact jeep I have been looking for...!
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... Then you did well! :cheers:

It has a very few pin holes that i wanna stop! How can I do that? I mean besides bed liner?
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There are some very good rust converters out there (check amazon), that you brush on. Just keep applying it until the rust turns black. It becomes an inert, paintable surface. Then spray it with a good primer (Rustoleum Red, in your case), and a finish coat, if you find a good match.

Congratulations on finding the right Scrambler!
 
Now! On to engine! He said it needed a New carburetor.. but it looks like it’s getting no spark. Spark is getting through the coil but not through the alternator?? I wanna try rebuilding the carter then later maybe invest in an new one?.?..? MC 2100 ????
 
He bi-passed the original gas pump with an electric one.. he said the spoon/rod came off the original pump and should be lying down in the oil pan ?. It’s turning over strongly. The gas is the color of coffee! So I need to drop the tank and clean it also blow out the lines. The oil is black black. So need to change that. Not sure what to do first..
 
I don’t know of any issues you would have in Texas with a salvage title. When I saw it listed, I had thought about looking at it, but decided I did not need another project. I have heard of ways to clean the title by transferring it to another state. Not sure if it still works. Best to call your insurance agent to see if salvage titles have an impact on insurability.

If you have parts of the fuel pump laying in the oil pan it is time to drop the pan. Don’t want that getting tossed up into the crank. That would be really bad.

Mechanical fuel pumps are cheap and easy to install. I’d get rid of the electric fuel pump.

Brown coffee colored fuel is bad bad bad. Needs to be thrown out.

How did you check for spark? If you have spark at the coil, you should have spark at the plugs, assuming the distributor is timed correctly.

Ospho is the rust converter that I like. Spray it on, let it turn black, rinse it off. Home Depot, Lowe’s, ace, etc... sells it.

Bed liner will not stop,rust, it will only hide it.

But, above all, happy jeeping!
 
I got spark from the center wire by sticking a spark plug in it turning the key to on an rubbing negative on ground. But no spark from say.. spark plug 3 while holding it on a negative..Make sense? Maybe I should try again.

and Ok no bed liner.
 
bryrambler said:
I got spark from the center wire by sticking a spark plug in it turning the key to on an rubbing negative on ground. But no spark from say.. spark plug 3 while holding it on a negative..Make sense? Maybe I should try again.

and Ok no bed liner.
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I assume engine was being cranked? You will only get a spark at the plug when the distributor's rotor is lined up with that plug in the cap.

It sounds like you have spark, and no fuel.

Try dumping a bottle cap of fresh gas down the carb throat and starting it. I bet it will start, run for 30 seconds and die.

What you are fighting is the reason I started my engine swap. I just had enough with carbs. If you are planning to swap the carb I would just change it out for an efi setup like Howell or Holley efi sniper. In Montgomery County you will have no smog check issues. Heck, even in Harris County it would not be an issue. My did not have a catalytic converter, and passed no problem 10 years ago, and technically it should have one.
 
Salvage titles typically aren't that big of a deal, except for financing. My insurance didn't even mind the salvage title. My pickup had a salvage title from an accident it had within 1 year of being new. Each state has different values (a percentage of damage vs book or a flat value. South Dakota had a fixed value of 7K worth of damage at that time) of a total loss on a vehicle. I live in Oklahoma now and wanted to change the title from "salvage" to "rebuilt". I walked into the tag agency, they walked out and "inspected" the truck. This was basically a walk around. I then got the rebuilt title in the mail. Each state also has a process for that.

First, I would try to use a magnet to retrieve the fuel pump part. Stick it through the fuel pump port, likely wont be successful as it has probably fallen into the deeper portion of the pan. If that doesn't work, I would try to lift the front of the jeep to ensure the spoon moves to the deeper part of the pan. You could also try dragging a strong magnet on the pan.

I would want to make sure the thing ran and didn't have a bad rear main seal before pulling the pan. However, you also don't want to run the engine with known metal chunks in the pan. For a test you can hook a fuel line up to a small gas tank held above carb level, it will gravity feed the carb.

Good luck
 
Thanks sdsupilot, I was planning of dropping the oil pan.. but i didn't know it interferes with the rear main seal. The jeep leaks no oil right now.
I was planning to drop the gas tank and make sure its clean and then blow out the lines. Change the oil. drop the pan and possible order gas pump.
And.. sense it won't crank over I was thinking of cleaning up the carb to see if it will kick over. Then once running look into what carburetor set up i wanna got with. Oh and all the lines under the hood are toast that goes for gas and air.
 
As well as the wires are a mixed up mess. I have to get in there and figure out what he did.. however there are a number of newer parts like Coil spark plug wires battery though dead, aluminum battery holder. The oil though black it's at level.. it just looks like it ran not too long ago. He said its been parked for 4 years. so..
 
Sorry, should have been more clear. The rear main doesn’t interfere with the pan. But, you do need to pull the pan to change the rear main. It’s not much fun to change, so I wouldn’t do it unless necessary.
 
As far as your fuel system goes, drop your tank and flush and clean thoroughly. My 83 Laredo has the plastic tank; hopefully yours does also. The metal ones rust inside and are very problematic. You can use either an electric or the stock pump but make sure to use a new clear inline filter. Wouldn't be too worried about that pump lever in the pan at this point. Maybe drain the oil and put an extendable magnet through the drain hole; at least you can find out if it indeed is in there and it may be small enough to come out the drain. New fuel hoses are a good idea as those old ones break down and contribute trash to your fuel system. Remove and thoroughly, underline thoroughly the carb. Most important to fix the constant battle with these old carbs idling smoothly and tending to stop up is to drill out the 2 idle tubes 0.032". Best thing I ever did to mine and much cheaper than all the fuel injection mods to get an old jeep going. One more thing, it is cheap and easy to upgrade your distributor to HEI. I used one off a Ford 300CI 6 cylinder about 20 years ago. Still works great. Good luck with your jeep; its going to be nice and alot of fun! There is much wisdom on this forum.

Bob in Freeport
P.S. Throttle actuator for factory cruise would be mounted behind horn on driver side fender. I don't see it there.
 
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Good call on bedliner, it does not stop rust (spankrjs photo shows that well). On that point...

I don't want to be the pessimist raining on the parade, but I'm not seeing where anybody stated this: the rust you see now is a tiny fraction of what the Jeep has going on, you just don't see most of it yet. Just want to be sure you're fully understanding what you're up against. You can work on what you can see, but you're just buying some time, you will not be "stopping" it until paint and parts come off and metal comes out :shrug:

I'm in the same boat and need to pull mine apart.

That isn't to say that you can't have a blast with it, it looks super solid. I just wanted to ensure you were going in with open eyes.

For the various issues (like the fuel pump), I'd suggest separate threads to keep things on-topic and less confusing.

I agree with the folks who say to get the leftover fuel pump bits out, I'd change all of the fluids and clear out the fuel system at a minimum before you try running it :twocents:
 
Bob Thanks! Yeah I plan to drop the tank this weekend. We have bad weather here.. a lot of rain so I can't wait to get out there.. Maybe it has a plastic tank?! Who knows. We'll see. I ordered a rebuild kit for the carb. I would rather replace the original pump. But the electric one on there is working its just the gas lines are leaking/dryrot so I need to replace those. I will drain the oil and I have a magnet to check with. I have never heard of drilling out the idle tubes.. i need to look into that. I do suspect the distributor... And I do want to change to a HEI. Just not sure if I wanna do the Ford or the or the Red HEI they have on Ebay for 99 bucks it comes with wires. I did see and article in my search the exact parts to order for the ford one. Anyway thanks Much! again... It will be a blast! I just need a little time to get too it. We (wife and 2 kids) just moved here from NY and bought a fixer up house. The deal was suppose to be... No attention to the jeep till house is finished. UMMM yeah ... i kinda live in the dog house
:P
 
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