On board air vs portable air.

[sdsupilot]

It’s funny how many different options there are to do the same thing. I didn’t think about welding gas suppliers/tanks. Besides the regulator it would probably be pretty cost effective.

The Warn power plants are really cool, but I already have an 8274.

I am leaning towards using one of the two York’s I have laying around.



Here are my York’s. Both currently have V belt pulleys.




Both of my compressors have the same sharp pulley end. If the internet can be believed, that means both are the 210.



I do have the 2 AMC York mounts if anyone on here wants OBA with their AMC engine.

 

[FLCJ8]

Scuba tanks are very heavy compared to a powertank aren't they? I have an old scuba tank and the thing is stupid heavy. How about a beer meister tank?

I'll throw out another possible(?) option.
SCBA air cylinders.
Our old air cylinders were 2216 psi aluminum tanks. We used them for air tools and air bags for rescue/extrication operations.
These were later replaced with 4500psi composite bottles. They are significantly lighter with greater capacity.

Even though our Rescue unit has a PTO driven compressor, it and other apparatus have a regulator setup for the cylinders as backup.
We had an adapter for the fill station to fill SCUBA tanks as well, so not sure if adapters would be readily available at dive shops to fill SCBA tanks.
I've occasionally seen used cylinders available at city auctions when FD's update or change manufacturers.
Worse case would be hydrostatic testing, but it needs to be eventually anyway.

 

[Spieg]

I carry a CO2 tank and also have a small compressor out of a Cadillac (air suspension pump) in case the tank should run empty.

 

[John N]

I have a small ARB compressor that runs my lockers. I’ve aired up my tires with it, but it takes forever. I just got a Powertank, I haven’t even taken it out of the box...it should be what I need for airing up. I also have Milwaukee battery impacts, so I’ve got that aspect covered. I don’t know if this is the best approach, but I think that it covers my needs.

 

[rubclt]

I have both the power tank and ARB dual compressor. If I could only have one, compressor... because powertank needs refilling and once you used most of the tank you can run out after filling three tires. I have found over the years harder to find places to refill and tanks are date stamp requires periodic inspection. On plus side powertank is fast, easy to install and Moblie, carry to where you need it... for me, I have both, so I can pick the best tool for the job

 

[AK-RWC]

I am pretty happy with my York on my AMC V8. Mounts easier to come by for it. I don't know what motor you have. Why does compressor need rebuilt? If they worked somewhat before make sure has oil and run it. Manifold, viar pressure switch, pop-off, coalescing filter, suction filter, air tank, on/off switch and some push-on hose/fittings and your there. To some extent you will need a % of those same items for 12V system. Connecting to fittings off the York may be harder part. I used the old AC hoses from a Wagoneer on mine.

I do not have experience with 12V, but can't imagine they will last as long as a York. Plus York can be found in junk yards or old trucks for cheap, and will fill a tire or run impact faster than 12V. CO2 would be faster.

I would love to know EVERYTHING about your set-up. I've been hauling around a York on my AMC V8s for almost 20 years, and haven't actually learned how to make it work yet. My biggest challenge is that I thought I'd need to make a bracket to rotate the compressor 90 degrees so the oil stays inside rather than getting pumped out, so that's always stopped me from taking the plunge to actually plumb the whole thing up.

 

[Jeeper_4_Life]

I would love to know EVERYTHING about your set-up. I've been hauling around a York on my AMC V8s for almost 20 years, and haven't actually learned how to make it work yet. My biggest challenge is that I thought I'd need to make a bracket to rotate the compressor 90 degrees so the oil stays inside rather than getting pumped out, so that's always stopped me from taking the plunge to actually plumb the whole thing up.

I can take pictures and post something sometime, may be a week or two. If it is the AMC mount then you can rotate it standing up with the same mount. I can't remember as I had the mount and everything off when I installed it. You may have to pull the mount off then take the compressor off the mount, turn it so fittings are upright and bolt it back down with the other 4 bolt mounting position, then put mount back on motor.

 

[Scott_P]

I can take pictures and post something sometime, may be a week or two. If it is the AMC mount then you can rotate it standing up with the same mount. I can't remember as I had the mount and everything off when I installed it. You may have to pull the mount off then take the compressor off the mount, turn it so fittings are upright and bolt it back down with the other 4 bolt mounting position, then put mount back on motor.

I have been running mine in the stock orientation and as AK-RWC mentioned, it does push a little oil...I just check it occasionally, but I am excited to learn that maybe I can rotate it up an retain the stock brackets! I have a spare york and brackets and will look into it.

Thanks for the insight! Never even crossed my mind before to see if it would work.

 

[sdsupilot]

Is your suction port on the bottom or top as it is laying down? I've read that you can just rotate the head 180 degrees and bolt it back together. Having suction on top is supposed to reduce oil consumption.

 

[Jeeper_4_Life]

Here is how my York is rigged up.
From compressor discharge it goes into coalescing filter, then manifold block. I thought I had a check valve before the filter, but it doesn't appear to have one unless it is in the fitting the hose goes over? I can't fully remember. I made a bracket to mount the oil separator between fan shroud and radiator using the radiator bolt, and the light ground in the grill. It appears my radiator bolt is MIA, I need to fix that. I have a line from the manifold to the front of Jeep and then one to the tank that is under the rear of Jeep behind the gas tank. From the tank I run a line out the back of Jeep and also another to my 90psi regulator and Air Locker solenoid.

Electrical
150 psi Pressure switch runs to relay, and switch inside the cab goes to relay in picture.
I have a pressure gauge in the cab that I ran from one of the ports off the manifold with nylon hose, but it burst due to heat and I haven't fixed it. I just plugged the ports.

I have a pop-off valve in the manifold and also one at the tank. I wanted to put a drain valve at the tank, but hit hung down below frame so I use a plug and drain it occasionally.

 

[sdsupilot]

I started moving on this. Wheeling season is starting and without air I am open in both ends.



I bought the SBC York AC mount from diy4x. It was pretty nice for a change to have something bolt in.

I am basically going to copy the setup @Jeeper_4_Life posted above.

 

[sdsupilot]

I have made decent progress on this. Still have to add quick connects, a filter and a one way valve. I had “fun” chasing air leaks. Apparently two wraps of Teflon tape was insufficient. After chasing air leaks I tested the lockers and both work!

Starting to get crowded under the hood.


Made a new switch panel. Included both a cigarette plug and dual USB ports.


I needed to cut an inch out of the legs. The tank fits quite well. Its the Viair 2.5 gallon tank.


The mounts were 12.5" apart. With one little extension I was able to mount without drilling any new holes.

 

[bigwalton]

What kind of hose/line do you have at the compressor? Heat at the outlet is a concern for longer runs and you need something heat tolerant for a while before you go to the line I'm seeing in this photo.

 

[sdsupilot]

Currently it has my old garage hose. I am planning to replace it with 3/8” hydraulic hose once I finalize placement. It doesn’t get hot yet, but the compressor only runs about 20 seconds or so to fill the 2.5 gallon tank to 120 psi. Filling tires will probably build up enough heat to cause issues over time.