Project Panel Replacement

[certifiablejeep]

Gas tank fits and I was able to roll the Jeep around in the shop.
The new front crossmember is thicker and will eventually rub on the top of the gas tank... so a piece of rubber for the top (as well as the sides/bottom stock) will go in there... all in all, lines up nicely.

Need to tighten/trim the shackle bolts though, they hit pretty good on both sides. The 20 gallon tank is a tight fit... exhaust too will be tight.



Rolling!





The front wheel was "clicking" on the driver side... I think it is one of the lug studs (I only have 2 lug nuts on at the moment) and I think it is rubbing on the back side.

Other than that, no weird/strange noises so far.

Rear bumper measuring/designing took place and nothing good so far. The idea to use front bumper scraps is possible, but a LOT of work. They need to be cut down, welded for lenght... and then sectioned and increased by about 3/4" to make it overall large enough (like an OEM bumper) height wise so the end caps will work and look alright with the center section of the license plate.

So, exploring maybe getting a piece of 4 foot c channel 1/4" already bent and use it... problem is prices of steel and custom work... then shipping is not sitting well with my wallet.

cb
cb

 

[AdamH]

When I had the Overlander “inspected” by a LEO to get a Bonded Title, the LEO looked at the VIN on the wiper motor, then ran that in the database, then signed the form.

But, I am an individual with one vehicle. Look up Unique Motorcars from Dallas and what they went through with their reproduction Eleanor Mustangs.

I personally think the VIN lives with the body, and specifically the windshield frame. But others (LEOs) might disagree. That is the only place on a Jeep with the “rosette rivets” meant to prevent VIN tampering. Heck, the VIN stamped in the frame is not even the complete number, just the first 3 digits and the last 6 series numbers. All of the middle info is not there. I doubt anybody would ever go through the trouble of looking to see if a Scrambler has anything stamped in the frame.

You beat me to it. Almost exactly what I was going to say regarding the partial VIN on the frame that can’t be seen when the body is on

 

[certifiablejeep]

Removed the sway bar links as the longer ones are on the way.



Found the flip kit I ordered a while back, got it drilled out for 3/4" and then put the slugs in.









Same thing was done on the other side (not pictured)
Got the HD steering bar in place and now it is on top of the knuckles.











Compared to the OEM setup, it is quite a bit thicker and more room between the springs.



I have done this the last couple of Jeeps and I think it works out pretty good.

cb

 

[jpnmaine]

What was the kit and bar you used. Like that option.

 

[certifiablejeep]

What was the kit and bar you used. Like that option.

The bar setup is one kit and the flip kit is another.
They don't sell an all in one, but that would be a great idea.
The bars are Rugged Ridge
The flip kit I think was Teraflex... I threw away the wrappers last night and went to the dump this morning, so I don't even have reference...

cb

 

[Belizeit]

What sway bar links are you getting ? I did the HD tie rod and drag also and bought some links but I think they are a little short at full turn. Waiting to put the engine in before making that decision to see if that changes things, but wondering what you are getting. Thanks. You are really starting to get this thing coming together now.

 

[certifiablejeep]

What sway bar links are you getting ? I did the HD tie rod and drag also and bought some links but I think they are a little short at full turn. Waiting to put the engine in before making that decision to see if that changes things, but wondering what you are getting. Thanks. You are really starting to get this thing coming together now.

I looked last night, but it was just in a while box with no numbers.
I placed an order that had a lot of parts in it a year ago and I am trying to find the info on it, but seems to be lacking.

cb

 

[83CJ-8]

https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Dana-St...AVQA98G/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00AVQA98G&psc=1

Ok, I see you didn't use the red bushing. You drilled to 3/4". How was the fit? I've read where they should be welded in.

 

[certifiablejeep]

https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Dana-St...AVQA98G/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00AVQA98G&psc=1

Ok, I see you didn't use the red bushing. You drilled to 3/4". How was the fit? I've read where they should be welded in.

I had to hammer these in, but I will weld them as well.

cb

 

[certifiablejeep]

JKS Disconnects came in and are in place... makes a lot of difference in the clearance.





Then was poking around looking for parts for a request that came in and remembered @Kim Dawson and I did some dealing a while back on these... so that might be in the mix for the front bumper on this.



Got my pump on and moved this back over for the tear down now that the frame dimensions are no longer needed and someone wants the D300.



and now that this rolls, life is a lot easier to get stuff in/out and moved around.



I put the lug nuts that are supposed to be on there in place and now the clicking is gone in the front wheel. I also torqued all the shackle bolts so now I can remove the gas tank and cut them down so they all fit and play nice. That will be this weekend.

Might have another parts Jeep coming in, not sure.

cb

NOTE: I have some new sway bar bushings for the uppers on order as well as adjusters as they need a slight adjustment from the holes I drilled... no interference, but with the slots in the mounts it will help to dial it in perfectly.

 

[certifiablejeep]

The bar setup is one kit and the flip kit is another.
They don't sell an all in one, but that would be a great idea.
The bars are Rugged Ridge
The flip kit I think was Teraflex... I threw away the wrappers last night and went to the dump this morning, so I don't even have reference...

cb

Part number I saw last night on the bar



cb

 

[certifiablejeep]

Dana 300 / T 176 are now removed and the frame cut down some more and metal recycling today.



Just have to pull the engine hopefully this weekend and be done with the tear down finally... I don't like unfinished tear downs... they are hard to move around the shop.

cb

 

[certifiablejeep]

Got the 4 cyl out last night... I think this is the first complete engine/tear out I have done for a 4 cyl.
The power steering setup on this thing is no joke... metric bolts, tons of brackets.
The 6 cyl is so much simpler to remove.





I nicked the power steering line and gave myself a smoke show in the shop... cutting discs and saw zalls are no match for power steering fluid.



I hope to be done with this today and have all the stuff listed locally so I can get back to the frame.

cb

 

[Belizeit]

That 4 cyl. engine looks different than mine that I removed from mine. Is that a Duke ? Mine was 84 AMC. Just looks like an older generation.

 

[certifiablejeep]

That 4 cyl. engine looks different than mine that I removed from mine. Is that a Duke ? Mine was 84 AMC. Just looks like an older generation.

I found this info.
1981-1983: GM 2.5-L/150 cu. in. 4-cylinder Iron Duke engine
The AMC straight-4 engine is a 2.5 L inline-four engine developed by American Motors Corporation (AMC) that was used in a variety of AMC, Jeep, and Dodge vehicles from 1984 to 2002.

 

[ag4ever]

If that is the Iron Duke, the bellhousing is worth $$$. Iron Duke uses the same bolt pattern as a SBC (and therefore LS). As such, that bellhousing can be used to SBC swap a Jeep using the stock transmission. Given it goes to a T176, even better.

 

[certifiablejeep]

If that is the Iron Duke, the bellhousing is worth $$$. Iron Duke uses the same bolt pattern as a SBC (and therefore LS). As such, that bellhousing can be used to SBC swap a Jeep using the stock transmission. Given it goes to a T176, even better.

It is out of a 1983, from everything I see, it is an Iron Duke, but honestly, I don't know much about the 4 cyl versions.
I have torn down a lot of Jeeps and this is one of the first of these.

I got the motor mounts out yesterday, I got out the power steering setup.
I cleaned everything up and put a CL ad together for all of it.

It did have the T176/D300 behind it, so more and more it sound desirable to the right person.

I am just trying to make room and a few $$$ so I can continue this:



cb

 

[mhinchliffe]

Oh sweet mother of aluminum slots!

Press on CB, press on.

 

[certifiablejeep]

Small projects done... got the gas tank bolts welded in.



Then got the sides cut down for the bolts vs. the gas tank area





There isn't a lot of room between the shackles and the gas tank.
Also, I loosened and adjusted the axle bolts while it was in the air so I could get the pinion closer and side to side better... almost spot on now... just need some weight in the chassis



Amazon showed up with the new sway bar bushings, so slapped those in to see.



Frame shot... looks nice



BONUS pic... sad Rubi LJ out in the rain... first time since I got her. I had to move stuff around and the skies opened up.



cb

 

[certifiablejeep]

Lots of effort last night and we now have a body on the frame...



Moved a bunch of stuff around, and then had to weld up a few things and remove the clamps.







Didn't metal finish it, I just needed the clamps out of the way so I can place it on the frame.



Its on and actually lines up pretty close.
I need to find the body mount kit now... I ordered it a while ago and "put it in a safe place".
I want to make sure this can bolt down and see all the mounts line up... the rear cross member seems off height wise, but other than that, the rest of the mounts the body is just sitting on them. I had to remove the brake prop valve mounting to clear this, but other than that, all good.



cb