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Randyzzz Scrambler Restification Thread!

Even though I said I liked the 4BT, I still would go with the 5.3. I can't stand the noise. That's why I bought a gas Hummer H1.
Why do you prefer the 5.3 over the 5.7 or the 6.0. Just curious. My guess is they are more availible.
 
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zr10054 said:
Even though I said I liked the 4BT, I still would go with the 5.3. I can't stand the noise. That's why I bought a gas Hummer H1.
Why do you prefer the 5.3 over the 5.7 or the 6.0. Just curious. My guess is they are more availible.
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The 5.3 has the best potential for fuel economy, and runs great to boot. The 6.0 in a Silverado has great power/torque but uses a lot of gas, the 5.7 seems to cost a lot more for not much benefit. The 5.3 was the best choice IMHO.

Groundpounder- thanks for the kind words.
 
I also finally tool a pic of the winch I mounted. Just a quickie install. Here's the pic! (Still contemplating the 8274 instead...)

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Well, the RE4.5 springs seemed to sag out some in the front, and I have still been working on the tie rod interference issues up front...so I threw on a set of longer shackles that I had lying around. They are the same length as the ones RE supplies if you buy their lift in "kit" form. Brought the front end back up to where it should be, but also killed the caster angle. Didn't help the approach angle much either...here's a couple of pics.

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I also installed some 1.25" wheel spacers in the rear, I like the look better but I still think the 35" tires look too small.

So...here's where it all goes downhill. I thought I'd swap the rear springs for the fronts, seeing as RE gives the rear springs a higher spring rate. Might let me use the shorter shackles again. But first, I had a slightly bent left rear axle shaft- didn't catch it when I put the axle together. The plan was to replace the axle shaft with a good spare I have, and then get to swapping springs. I pulled the rear axle, and saw this:

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:banghead::evil::banghead::angry:

The splines were twisted and starting to crack at the base. I threw in the spare shaft and stepped back to regroup. Granted, the 5.3 is a torquey son-of-a-gun, and the 35" tires with 4.56 gears probably didn't help either. It also has an Ected locker...however:

I have never actually locked the locker up.
I have not off-roaded this yet. Still haven't built a front driveshaft...
I have not locked the transfer case into the 4-1 low.
I have done some burnouts, but come on...

I haven't checked the pass shaft yet...

If I can do this to a stock shaft with daily driving, what will happen when I put it in 4-1 and engage the locker? Poof? I can get some alloy axles made, but they are only 25% stronger according to their specs. I was second guessing myself when I decided to keep the Waggy 20 rear. I knew I should have built a stronger rear end then. I know there are tons of guys that run Waggy rears with no problems, but they probably don't have the same hp and torque that mine has. Or driving style...

Now the mind goes into overdrive. Do I narrow and build the D60 I have? Do I spend big bucks on 6 lug full floating rear hubs for the 60 or just use that money to go with 8 lug wheels and get those 37" tires I've been lusting after? Or do I build a custom fabbed ford 9" rear? If I go to all this trouble, why not ditch the leafs that are sagging already and link it? I like going fast in the desert...links might be the ticket.

I guess the last question is...does anyone want to buy a freshly built Waggy width HD AMC20 with 4.56 gears, Ected locker, and good stock shafts? Spring under Scrambler width perches too. It has under 1K miles on it... (not recommend for drivers with a 5.3 and a heavy right foot...):D
 
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Randyzzz said:
I guess the last question is...does anyone want to buy a freshly built Waggy width HD AMC20 with 4.56 gears, Ected locker, and good stock shafts? Spring under Scrambler width perches too. It has under 1K miles on it... (not recommend for drivers with a 5.3 and a heavy right foot...):D
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Sorry about that Randy. I am glad you found it before it stranded you.
How much are you wanting to get out of the 20? I'll pass on the info to a few local boards.

z
 
FYI on the RE springs. I put my older RE rear springs up front. Then got another set of new rear springs to put in the back. The rear ones are supposed to be a higher spring rate, but didn't give me any more lift in the front. Maybe even a half inch lower. I was looking for just a little more lift in the front, but it didn't happen. And I still have some of those same steering issues with interference, drag link to tie rod.
 
Z- I would like to get about $1000 for it- it has very few miles, I've got that much in the locker and the gears. But I'm open to offers, trades, what not. The more I think about it the fabbed 9" looks attractive.

John- thanks for the tip advice on the springs. I love the flex of the RE springs, but they seem to have settled at least an inch in the front. This whole steering thing is a pain, seems like a shackle reversal is the only real solution to the interference issue- but if I'm going that far I might as well go all the way. I'll just have to see how much the axle thing sets me back.
 
Seeing this makes me very happy I have Dana 60s in my Jeep. :)

(i have a heavy foot too.)
 
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I like the ruffstuff one... But then you start adding parts, HI9, locker, gears, shafts, brakes, mounts, links.... adds up quick!! See if you can pick up someone elses project!
 
Randy: haven't been here in a while. Just noticed you're having axle problems.

Hot tip: Get a set of axles out of a Ford 3/4 t Truck IE D60 rear and D44 front. Something mid to late 70's When you narrow the front axle you can cut and respline the drive axles and Curries can do this, or you can send them to Dutchmans which is up where you live. The rear axles have to be made and Dutchmans is the place for that too. It was $75 ea to cut and respline the fronts and about $150 each for the new rears.

Yes you will have to go to 8 bolt wheels. but this is just part of the game and you want 37's anyway.I did this right out of the box on the CJ5 and NEVER HAD AN AXLE PROBLEM EVER! in fact I cannibalized those axles for the DeScrambler, along with my original wheels. A coat of Hammertone paint and away we go.

On a side note mine is coming along and I am painted and on wheels and just finished the fuel tank 36.6 gallon Aluminum.

Randy
 
Thanks for the input, Randy. I already have a good 44 front, it's just the rear that is the weak link at this time. I have a D60 that I could build, but I really like the lighter weight of the 9". Just have to figure out what's most cost-effective.

Your build pics look good- can't wait to see it in paint!
 
Ick, sorry to see all this. :banghead:

One note, there's a lot of folks that I've read about that strip their two piece axles on dry pavement and they're always surprised, but my thought is that you'll never have as much traction offroad as you will with clean tires on dry pavement. So those burnouts (or more likely a couple starts just short of burnout) is likely the most load your axle will see short of impact loads offroad, right? A clean launch with no tire spin and it's irrelevant if you have lockers or not, same force to each tire either way? Just a thought.

Kinda sorry to hear that you're going to link the rear, I liked that you were still on leafs.
 
zr10054 said:
Randy...Being cost-effective always ruins a good project.
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I like that quote!

So...I read somewhere that this is the preferred redneck axle transport method...:eek:

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Don't laugh...it worked. It's only 2 blocks from my storage unit to my house. :rolleyes:

That's my D60 from a 1969 Chev 3/4 ton. I stripped off the outer hardware and took a look inside. Without the axle shafts, hubs, and drums, it's not that heavy. And with a little shaving, it won't hang much lower than the AMC23 that's in there now. Maybe a 1/2". As you can tell, I'm leaning towards the D60. there just aren't enough choices for selectable lockers for the Ford 9", the 35 spline ARB has lockup issues, the 31 spline ARB is good to go but then the upgrade isn't all that different from what I have now. The 9" locker is about the same size as a D44 locker anyways. And, as Eric pointed out, (reading between the lines), maybe my "abusive" driving habits led to the failure, but I didn't build this to be careful, did I? If it can't stand up to some turn and burn action, it isn't strong enough. Nuff said.

( I pulled the right rear axle today to check, it still looks fine. I also did a few more turn and burns beforehand, rechecked the new left rear, it's still good too. Maybe that one axle was some weak alloy, who knows.)

So...maybe with rear discs, 35 spline gun drilled axles, six lug hubs, and drive slugs I won't gain too much weight. I think I'll stick with the leafs out rear for now, this project will be expensive enough as is, and I don't want any more down time than possible. I do think the steering clearance issues up front can be solved with either links, a spring-over, or a shackle reversal- the interference issue is caused when the axle moves forward as the spring flattens out. That will have to wait for another day.
 
your right shaft is twisted because when your diff is unlocked power naturally goes to the right side.

You'll be happy with the 60. There are tons in scrap yards and even more aftermarket support.
 
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