Spankrjs' 1984 Long Term Project

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#64
I did a little bit more work on the '84 last night.

Since I have no idea how long the gas has been sitting in the tank, I need to drop/flush it out, plus change out any damaged parts.

Quick picture, the critters have been nesting all over this one.




Picture of the top of the gas tank, note the factory crimps. I do not think this tank has ever been dropped? But the fill/vent hoses have regular hose clamps on them, making me think that those two hoses were swapped out at some point.






Before I dropped the tank, I noticed these two thin metal angle pieces at the back corners of the tank skid to cross member interface. Tommy and I found these pieces after dropping one of his 20 gallon tanks, did not know where they went. Well, this is where they go. They have surface rusted due to the fact they were not painted from the factory. I would guess they are some kind of "protect the corners of the plastic tank in the event of a crash" pieces???






And more critter nesting materials!!!!



 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#65
This next series of pictures show how the factory ran all the lines/wires on top of the tank. Mainly for my reference when I go to put this tank back together. Note all the dust!!!














The tank will get a good cleaning. I plan on replacing all the small rubber fuel lines, since they are over 20 years old now. I hope that the factory sending unit in the tanks is still good, I do not want to have to put a crappy aftermarket sender unit in. I will also blast/repaint the small angle pieces, plus repaint/repair the tank skid plate as needed.

I have a wedding to go to this weekend, so progress will halt. But, I am hoping that by the end of next weekend i will have the complete front axle reinstalled, the rear axle bearings/brakes serviced, and the tires swapped over to another set of wheels.

That's it for now.
 

red mistress

Red Jeep Collector
City
Piney woods
State
tx
#66
Good gosh U got some good Jeep energy :)

I'm with others on front grill, don't fake a repaint.

Accent the hot rod V-8 swap.

Chrome too much bling nowadays, although CJ is mature enough to still be Macarena Cool.

DR
 

Swiftspy

Legacy Registered User
City
San Jose
State
CA
#67
The tank will get a good cleaning. I plan on replacing all the small rubber fuel lines, since they are over 20 years old now. I hope that the factory sending unit in the tanks is still good, I do not want to have to put a crappy aftermarket sender unit in.
Don't forget the small length of rubber hose used on the fuel return line up in the engine compartment. I replaced all my rubber lines by the tank when I refurbished it, but neglected the return line section. A few days ago it burst and gas was spraying all over the engine. Fortunately I had been working on something else before starting the Jeep, and so it was parked with the hood open and I saw it right away. Whew.
With my sending unit, just the filter needed replacing, the rest of it was still good.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#68
Good gosh U got some good Jeep energy :)

I'm with others on front grill, don't fake a repaint.

Accent the hot rod V-8 swap.

Chrome too much bling nowadays, although CJ is mature enough to still be Macarena Cool.

DR
I don't know, two days/nights in New Orleans for a big wedding kind of knocked some wind out of my sails :D

As for the grill, still not too sure:shrug: Maybe a chrome overlay over a re-paint:shrug:

Don't forget the small length of rubber hose used on the fuel return line up in the engine compartment. I replaced all my rubber lines by the tank when I refurbished it, but neglected the return line section. A few days ago it burst and gas was spraying all over the engine. Fortunately I had been working on something else before starting the Jeep, and so it was parked with the hood open and I saw it right away. Whew.
With my sending unit, just the filter needed replacing, the rest of it was still good.

Yes, I will be changing all the rubber fuel/vent lines. The dry CA climate has done a number on all of the rubber fuel lines. Even the rubber vent valve grommets in top of the fuel tank are dry rotted:eek:
 

kctango

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Allenhurst
State
GA
#69
Yes, I will be changing all the rubber fuel/vent lines. The dry CA climate has done a number on all of the rubber fuel lines. Even the rubber vent valve grommets in top of the fuel tank are dry rotted:eek:
At least those are easy to come by. Use the the ones from the wrangler, you might want to replace to overturn shutoff valves as the plastic nipples break easy once they are old. Same again the ones from the wrangler fit.

Factory Jeep parts. Part number J5360058 and 52018823
Grommet fits into a 1 3/8 inch hole. Rollover valve fits into 15/16 grommet hole. Vent hose size = 1/4 inch. Fits most models XJ YJ MJ ZJ 1984-1996 and also our CJ's

c683_35.jpg c7d4_14.jpg
 
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spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#70
At least those are easy to come by. Use the the ones from the wrangler, you might want to replace to overturn shutoff valves as the plastic nipples break easy once they are old. Same again the ones from the wrangler fit.

Factory Jeep parts. Part number J5360058 and 52018823
Grommet fits into a 1 3/8 inch hole. Rollover valve fits into 15/16 grommet hole. Vent hose size = 1/4 inch. Fits most models XJ YJ MJ ZJ 1984-1996 and also our CJ's

View attachment 32241 View attachment 32242
Yes, those are the grommets that I ordered:thumbsup: I had to buy new valves/grommets for my red Scrambler, so I had the part #'s wrote down:D

The valves are still in perfect shape, so I was able to save a few $$$:wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#71
Not too much "real work" happened this weekend, but I did order/receive some parts, plus I was able to clean a few things up.

I wasn't planning on spending a "bunch of money" on this project, but I think the V8, 33's, stronger axle shafts/differential I will be installing will be a little bit too much for the stock "5 bolt" lock in hubs, so I ordered an internal mount hub kit, just like I installed on my red Scrambler.



I already had all the front hub bearings/seals, but I went ahead and bought new ball joints/spindle bearings, too. I also purchased some fuel injection rated rubber hose/clamps for the sending unit, in case this engine is ever upgraded to a MPI/TPI set up.


Quick picture of the gas tank, note all the dust/dirt!!!




After fighting for about 20 minutes, i was able to remove the tank from the skid plate. I bought a new in tank filter, and I have another "solid foam" float to install, but I believe this sending unit is still good. The original gas tank strap will be cleaned up and reused. The factory vent valves are good to go, but the rubber grommets are shot.




After pulling the tank, 20 plus years of sand/dirt were discovered on top of the rubber "anti-chaff" mats.




And underneath the mats, more dirt. The picture makes it look like rust, but 90% of it is dirt.




And after soaking/scrubbing/washing for two hours, I got it to this condition.




The remaining dirt/mud is like concrete!!!!!! I will have to pressure wash/steam clean the remaining dirt out. This skid plate is 100% solid, minimal internal surface rust. I am going to repaint the inside of the skid plate, but the outside is fine.

Since it was nice weather, I also cleaned up a bunch of other parts that will be reused.



I thoroughly cleaned the outside of the gas tank, and flushed the inside of it out, too. The fuel fill/vent hoses are ins great shape, and all the gas tank rubber mats cleaned up like new, too. Even the little plastic under body flaps will be reinstalled.

Now that we have longer days, I also washed the whole undercarriage/chassis. It has not been washed in years, it looked like the gas tank did!!! The under body is in great shape. I believe the dealer "undercoated" this Jeep before it was initially sold, the perimeter/wheel wells/easy to get to spots have black paint/coating on them, but above the gas tank/hard to get to spots are still the factory color. I "might" steam clean off this undercoating in the future, but for now it is fine.




Besides the inside of the gas tank skid plate, the only other parts that need "attention" are the two little gas tank "side protectors" and the gas tank strap. The strap is galvanized, and was not painted. It has some minor surface rust.



I had my buddy sand blast these parts, and I will paint them before I reinstall them.

I also found the tap i need for the wheels. The wheels I have were modified by the previous owner for Staun bead locks, so each wheel has an extra valve stem hole. I am going to tap these holes and install pipe plugs to seal them up.

My plan for this week/this coming weekend:

1) pack all the wheel bearings, reassemble the wheel hubs, front and back
2) get the tires swapped over to the other wheels
3) reinstall the front axle
4) install gas tank (maybe)

The sooner I get it back on all "4's", the sooner i can mess with the transfer case/transmission.

That's it for now.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#72
Some wheel info and more axle/hub dis assembly.

Each of the wheels I am going to put on this Scrambler, Alcoa/Mickey Thompson Challengers, had an extra hole drilled for another valve stem. Since I don't plan on running inflatable/internal bead locks at this time, I needed to close these holes up. The holes were 3/8" diameter, so I tapped them with a 3/8" pipe thread tap, and will thread in a pipe plug.




And what the plugs look like installed.




I plan on using "Red Loctite" to help the seal, but since it is tapered thread, they should seal. Ideally, I wish they did not have the holes, but since they are already there, i needed to seal them. The wheels are forged, so welding might be a possibility, but I am not sure I would want to weld on a wheel. I could also probably put in another valve stem, possibly backwards, but clearance is an issue.

Checking clearance on the rear brake drums, clears with plenty of room.






Checking clearance with the front calipers, clears with some extra room to spare.






I plan on swapping the rims over in the next few days, so I guess i will find out if the plugs will work. As odd as this sounds, this can not be that uncommon of an occurrence. All new cars have the TPS holes, and I am sure people plug them up versus spending $80 on new sensors????
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#73
I also dis assembled the rear hubs/brakes/axles last night.

One side was leaking, so I figured it was time for some maintenance.


My first clue that something was not right: I removed the Allen headed screws from the lock in hubs and gear oil started running out.







Picture of the rear lock in hubs. They have an extra "spacer ring" that is installed vs. the front hubs, which I believes makes the locking/unlocking action less prone to happening.




And more oil coming out. Also of note, all the wheel bearing adjusting nuts were finger tight, on both sides. I will have to inspect the bearings for damage, and replace if necessary.




The rear brake shoes are worn, the hardware looks OK (but will replace due to age), and the wheel cylinder rubber caps are dry rotted.




After pulling the brake parts/backing plates off the spindles, I found an original 2-piece axle shim. These are not needed/reused with the full float axle set up.




And inside the axle tube, I found the inner axle oil seals. This has me concerned, The inner seals should keep the gear oil out of the wheel bearings. On the two other Jeeps I have (had) that had the Warn FF axles installed, I installed new inner seals and packed the wheel bearings with grease. I never had gear oil mixing with the grease. Maybe the seals were dry/leaking, or maybe the PO used gear oil inside the wheel hubs, like a "big rig"??




I never wanted to use oil in the hubs due to the dials - they are not "100% sealed" due to the rotating dial face. I always figured oil would sling out (which it had been doing on this one). When I reassemble the rear hubs, I will pack the bearing with grease, and install all new oil seals/O-rings.

And one last picture, the inside of one of the spindles. Unlike front spindles, they do not have a "spindle bearing". They do have another oil seal (not pictured) to help keep the grease/gear oil separated. I am hoping/thinking that all these rear hub seals were just old, and causing the oil seepage.




That's it for now.
 

bigwalton

Picture cravin' AK Postal nut
Staff member
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
#74
Is there a reason you're going with Loctite over basic teflon tape on the plugs?

On the spindles, it doesn't look like there's any sign at all of grease in there, does it? I would think that if oil got in, it would not destroy/remove grease that's there, only mix with it and make a big mess. I think you called it that they put gear oil in them from what I see in the pictures.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#75
Is there a reason you're going with Loctite over basic teflon tape on the plugs?

On the spindles, it doesn't look like there's any sign at all of grease in there, does it? I would think that if oil got in, it would not destroy/remove grease that's there, only mix with it and make a big mess. I think you called it that they put gear oil in them from what I see in the pictures.

I went with the Loctite for it's "cement them in place" properties:fingerscrossed: I figure Red Loctite should "glue" the brass plugs to the aluminum rims fairly nicely, and not vibrate loose:fingerscrossed: I have had good luck with the Teflon tape on steel plugs, but I was concerned that the tape might cause me to "over torque" the brass plugs and strip out the aluminum:shrug: There is a fine line between "just right" and "oh s- - - -":D

I believe you are correct on the rear spindles/hubs, there was no sign of grease anywhere:thumbsup:
 

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#76
I think your solution on the extra valve stem hole should work. Factory TPMS sensors are either part of the valve stem, or band mounted, and don't require a second hole from what I have learned. I used to buy blem wheels from the Superior factory outlet- usually had double stem holes- we used a stainless carriage bolt and gasket with a nut on the inside. Always worried the nut might loosen.

There is another way to do this, flush mounted valve stems.


http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-VS407C-Flush-Mount/dp/B002803UIY

Although, I think your way is more secure and permanent.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#77
I think your solution on the extra valve stem hole should work. Factory TPMS sensors are either part of the valve stem, or band mounted, and don't require a second hole from what I have learned. I used to buy blem wheels from the Superior factory outlet- usually had double stem holes- we used a stainless carriage bolt and gasket with a nut on the inside. Always worried the nut might loosen.

There is another way to do this, flush mounted valve stems.


http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-VS407C-Flush-Mount/dp/B002803UIY

Although, I think your way is more secure and permanent.
I am hoping my way works :fingerscrossed: I plan on getting the tires mounted this week, so I will have plenty of time before this thing is drivable to check for leaks:D If they leak, then plan B:shrug:

I was looking at some "Valve Stem Plugs", usually used on heavy equipment when people foam fill the tires. They looked like a good solution except for the fact that they were for thinner steel wheels:banghead: And about $17 each :eek:

If my brass plugs leak, then I will look into a second set of valve stems, like you posted:thumbsup:

Are valve stem holes typically 3/8":shrug: ??? I thought they were smaller, but I could be wrong:shrug:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#78
A little more work complete, nothing glamorous, just cleaning up parts.

Picture of all the rear axle/brake/hub parts cleaned up, plus the spindles soaking in cleaner.










The rear axle bearing seem to be in great shape, so I will reuse them. The currently installed front spindle bearings are in perfect shape, too, so I will probably just thoroughly clean them/repack with new grease.


Some more shots of the "concrete" in the skid plate.






And after pressure washing for about an hour straight, got about 90% of it off.




A few close ups of what is left, which will have to be removed with a wire wheel.






The front axle is still waiting for some parts to come in, so the next few days will be more cleaning/inspecting/gathering.

That's it for now.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
#79
Curiosity go the best of me, so I skipped doing "real" work on the Scrambler and went and had the tires swapped over to the new rims.

Loaded up "Sanford and Son" style in my green Scrambler. It took two trips, each way, to the tire store. The bed could hold the 5 mounted tires, but I had to make a seperate trip to bring the rims. The tire store is only about 5 minutes away, so no big deal.




And of course, my threaded in plugs DID NOT work. We mounted two tires, sprayed the soapy water on the plugs, and air was bubbling out like crazy:confused:

Plan B - On the suggestion of the "old dude" at the tire store, we installed some larger valve stems in the holes backwards. IIRC, these larger stems are used on older 16" and 16.5" rims. It works, so far, so good.




Since this Scrambler wont be drivable for at least another month or two, I am going to closely monitor the air pressure in each tire. Right now, there is 35lbs of air in each tire/rim assembly. If it maintains this air pressure for two months, i will consider this a successful solution. If this does not work, then I will see about threading an aluminum plug into the wheel holes and having it welded in place to seal the holes. The valve stems should work, that's what is used to seal these holes in rims to begin with. Even installed backwards, there seems to be enough "meat" on the outside of the valve stem to plug the internal hole. I will have to wait and see.

And what the mounted tire/rim assembly looks like. I did not get them balanced, just in case I need to dismount the tires again to find another solution to the rim hole issue.




And of course, the spare is already flat!!! We did not notice the two big screws in the tread until after we mounted the tires. I will have to get the spare patched/plugged.




I also picked up the rest of my rear axle seals/brake parts, I should be able to start putting this back together real soon.




I also took a break from the Tan Scrambler to change the oil in my green Scrambler, it was getting jealous.




That's it for now.
 

bigwalton

Picture cravin' AK Postal nut
Staff member
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
#80
Holy moly! :drool: I just flat out love the look of that style mag rim. Looks even better with the tire on. :woot: I honestly think that the similar rims on our Cherokee were at least half the reason I bought the thing. Makes me want to find a set to put on the Postal now... well, they are both 6-lugs. Hmmmm.

I'd fill the holes in the backwards stems with black sealant. Water/mud/sand :D sitting in there could rot out the valve from the backside. I bet they work fine as a solution.
 
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