The Warn instructions are kind of vague in this regard, and on my red Scrambler I did not install the inner axle oil seals. But, since I had new seals, I went ahead and installed them. So far, after over 2 years/10,000 miles, I do not have any gear oil in the red Scrambler's wheel bearings. I guess the spindle oil seals are doing there job. Also note the clean housing end and axle bore. The bore must be clean and smooth or you will tear the spindle o-rings. I ran a thin bead of RTV inside the axle tube before installing the seal.
Next, I installed the spindle, followed by the brake backing plate. I used a little bit of RTV at the spindle to axle house bore interface, both on the surface and outboard of the o-ring. The top four t-bolts install as shown, the bottom t-bolt goes in as pictured, backward from the rest. IMPORTANT - the bottom t-bolts head must be perfectly horizontal. In the picture, mine is slightly crooked, and it hit the hub when I went to install it. Make sure it is perfectly horizontal. All nuts torque to 50 foot pounds.
The bottom t-bolt nut requires a washer for the nut, or it wont make good contact/will pull through the axle housing end. The kits come with a washer, but a regular grade 8 washer will work, with no modifications.
Next, I installed all the brake parts. It is really easy to get to/install everything without the wheel hub in the way.
A little grease on the spindle, then the wheel hub slides right on.
Whoever installed this kit DID NOT use the bearing thrust washers, and they were missing. They had the spindle nuts installed as pictured below, left to right: nut against bearing, in between washer, outer nut.
The Warn instructions call for a thrust washer, which I do not have. So, I grabbed two old front wheel bearing thrust washers, cut the inner "tabs" off (screw driver is pointing at modified tab), and used them. They work perfect. I had to cut the tabs off since the Warn spindle machined "notch" does not go all the way back to the end of the threads like a front spindle. I am not sure if this thrust washer is needed, but since the instructions called for it, I installed them.
Torque inner nut to 50 foot pounds, back off 1/2 turn. Re torque to 5 foot pounds. This will eliminate any in-out movement, but will allow the hub to spin bind free. Next, in between washer goes on, make sure the raised "tit" on the inner nut goes through one of the holes in the washer. Next, torque outer nut to 125-150 foot pounds.
My outer nuts came with the nifty set screws to lock them to the in between washer. The instructions make no reference to this feature, and the two other kits I installed came with plain outer nuts. I found a reference to this feature in a Moses Ludel book. If you look at the above picture, you can see that one set screw, upper left, is deeper then the other two. This set screw hole lined up perfectly with one of the in between washer holes, and pins the nut in place. I do not see how this nut will work loose in service.
Next, I slid the inner hub on to the end of the axle and secured it with a snap ring.
I then greased the splines, to protect the seals, and slid the axles in. Once the shafts are installed, the inner hub is secured by a large snap ring.
I just flat out love the look of that style mag rim. Looks even better with the tire on. 
I honestly think that the similar rims on our Cherokee were at least half the reason I bought the thing. Makes me want to find a set to put on the Postal now... well, they are both 6-lugs. Hmmmm.
sitting in there could rot out the valve from the backside. I bet they work fine as a solution.
IIRC, the FSJ/Renegade slot mags are only 6-7" wide, the Mickey Thompson/Alcoa Challengers came in 8" and 10" widths, making them a good choice for 12.50 tires
