- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
No problem
And appreciate it
Come on down to "Sand Blast" in August for a closer look, it should/better be there
Spankrjs' 1984 Long Term Project
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
No problem
And appreciate it
Come on down to "Sand Blast" in August for a closer look, it should/better be there
Major Jack
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Zillah
- State
- Wa
With the black bumper i think a painted grill would look better. I have never really been into chrome on a jeep. Just my two cents worth.
pav1
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Acton
- State
- ON
Come on down to "Sand Blast" in August for a closer look, it should/better be there
Love to....but the disc in my back re-herniated and I can't see driving long distances in my jeep for a long time
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I am "leaning" more that way, too
Love to....but the disc in my back re-herniated and I can't see driving long distances in my jeep for a long time
Get well soon, August is still a good way out
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
A bit more progress.
Got the front axle back, set it on the springs, then torqued down the u-bolts.
While I had day light, I cleaned up the little bit of surface rust that was present on the rear cross member that holds up the back of the gas tank skid. "Yard Scrambler" had the same issues, almost like this particular cross member was not prepped correctly, or primed, before painting at the factory. I still need to paint this before putting the tank/skid plate back in.
Note the big flakes of paint that came right off the cross member, this is identical to "Yard Scrambler". I wonder if this is a common "paint adhesion problem area"?
The added "protector strip" was never even painted!!
Besides a little road grime/grease, the forward cross member is good to go.
After bolting down the front axle, I removed three of the 4 ball joint nuts. Note the "leverage" bars I had to use to break the nuts free!
The fourth nut, driver side lower jam nut, will not come off. This lower ball joint is slightly loose in the bore, allowing it to turn with the nut. I drilled a hole through the face of the nut to allow me to cut it in 1/2 with a chisel.
Depending on the weather, I hope to get the front axle completely back together. But, that depends on how much fun I have removing/replacing the ball joints.
That's it for now.
Got the front axle back, set it on the springs, then torqued down the u-bolts.
While I had day light, I cleaned up the little bit of surface rust that was present on the rear cross member that holds up the back of the gas tank skid. "Yard Scrambler" had the same issues, almost like this particular cross member was not prepped correctly, or primed, before painting at the factory. I still need to paint this before putting the tank/skid plate back in.
Note the big flakes of paint that came right off the cross member, this is identical to "Yard Scrambler". I wonder if this is a common "paint adhesion problem area"?
The added "protector strip" was never even painted!!
Besides a little road grime/grease, the forward cross member is good to go.
After bolting down the front axle, I removed three of the 4 ball joint nuts. Note the "leverage" bars I had to use to break the nuts free!
The fourth nut, driver side lower jam nut, will not come off. This lower ball joint is slightly loose in the bore, allowing it to turn with the nut. I drilled a hole through the face of the nut to allow me to cut it in 1/2 with a chisel.
Depending on the weather, I hope to get the front axle completely back together. But, that depends on how much fun I have removing/replacing the ball joints.
That's it for now.
- City
- Bedford
- State
- NH
As I was scouring for slot wheels, white waggies, chrome waggies, and turbine wheels, i came upon a set of 15x8 supposedly...
http://allentown.craigslist.org/pts/3688522793.html
cb
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I got a pretty good amount of work done this weekend, so lots of pictures.
After drilling the stuck lower ball stud nut, I split it with a punch, and it loosened up.
A few smacks with two hammers, one on either side of the axle "C", the knuckles dropped off.
Picture of how I pressed out the lower ball joint.
Picture of how I pressed out the upper ball joint.
The "bare" knuckles.
Pressing in the new lower ball joints, these are the easy ones. They are installed first.
Pressing in the upper ball joints. These are a PIA, due to shape of the knuckle. I had to move the press ring on the bottom several times, but they went in "easy enough".
The "complete" knuckles. This entire operation took about 2.5 hours. I usually dread ball joints, but these weren't too bad, sometimes they can be a major PIA.
After drilling the stuck lower ball stud nut, I split it with a punch, and it loosened up.
A few smacks with two hammers, one on either side of the axle "C", the knuckles dropped off.
Picture of how I pressed out the lower ball joint.
Picture of how I pressed out the upper ball joint.
The "bare" knuckles.
Pressing in the new lower ball joints, these are the easy ones. They are installed first.
Pressing in the upper ball joints. These are a PIA, due to shape of the knuckle. I had to move the press ring on the bottom several times, but they went in "easy enough".
The "complete" knuckles. This entire operation took about 2.5 hours. I usually dread ball joints, but these weren't too bad, sometimes they can be a major PIA.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
And loosely installed. I used a bottle jack and applied "gentle pressure" to get the lower ball joint seated. it did not take much. I then torqued the lower jam nut.
The upper split ring installed and torqued.
And the completed knuckle. Both sides feel good and tight, but still pivot without binding.
I then removed the spindle seal metal rings from the old axles to clean up/reuse on the new front axles. I also removed the outer axle dust shields, but, the the machining on the new axles prevents their use. I ended up using "Ten Factory" alloy axles, they should be much better then stock.
These axles are machined to take full snap rings to retain the u-joint ends, I really like this feature.
Installing the spindle thrust washer, note the direction of the "chamfer".
The assembled axles, greased up spindles, ready to install.
And of course, about half way though installing the axles/spindles, it started raining!!!!!
The upper split ring installed and torqued.
And the completed knuckle. Both sides feel good and tight, but still pivot without binding.
I then removed the spindle seal metal rings from the old axles to clean up/reuse on the new front axles. I also removed the outer axle dust shields, but, the the machining on the new axles prevents their use. I ended up using "Ten Factory" alloy axles, they should be much better then stock.
These axles are machined to take full snap rings to retain the u-joint ends, I really like this feature.
Installing the spindle thrust washer, note the direction of the "chamfer".
The assembled axles, greased up spindles, ready to install.
And of course, about half way though installing the axles/spindles, it started raining!!!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
The axles and spindles installed. I had to "gently tap" the axles through the knuckle bores. If it would not have been raining, I would have filed the knuckle openings slightly larger to allow for clearance. If I have to pull these shafts, gentle prying from the back side will get them back through the knuckles. I did not have this issue with my Warn front axles, but these have a ever so slightly larger OD, causing very slight interference. I used Loctite and new self locking nuts to retain the spindles. I purposely left the splash shields off, all they do is cause the spindles to rust, IMO.
Quick picture showing the front spindle nut stack. This is very similar to the rear, minus the "set screws" in the outer lock nuts.
Inner nut, note the "tit" at 6 o'clock.
"In between washer", note how the "tit" fits through one of the holes.
And the outer lock nut.
Inner hub installed, secured by small snap ring at the end of the axle shaft and large retaining clip inside the hub body. The same as the rear hubs.
And the hub dial installed.
Brake pads installed.
Brake calipers installed.
And the brake lines installed.
Quick picture showing the front spindle nut stack. This is very similar to the rear, minus the "set screws" in the outer lock nuts.
Inner nut, note the "tit" at 6 o'clock.
"In between washer", note how the "tit" fits through one of the holes.
And the outer lock nut.
Inner hub installed, secured by small snap ring at the end of the axle shaft and large retaining clip inside the hub body. The same as the rear hubs.
And the hub dial installed.
Brake pads installed.
Brake calipers installed.
And the brake lines installed.
Last edited:
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
And the "complete" front axle. Note how bad the drag link angle is. The suspension is at "full droop", but even at normal ride height, the 4" lift is too much for the steering angle.
I usually don't, but since I had a dropped pitman arm in the garage, left over from my red Scrambler build, i installed it. I prefer "flipping" the tie rod/drag link to the top of the knuckles, for clearance and angles, but since I already had this part.................. Besides, I always wanted to experience first hand the reduced steering throw caused by a dropped pitman arm. A future "upgrade" can correct this, for now, it will get me rolling.
Picture of the stock vs. RE drop pitman arm.
And installed, a much better angle. Besides having to change out the pitman arm tie rod end which had slack, all the other ends are fine. The tie rod and drag link are also straight, no bends, for now.
Since it was good weather Sunday, I primed/painted the rear cross member that holds up the rear of the gas tank/skid.
The cleaned tank, installed inside the repainted skid plate, secured by the factory center strap.
I usually don't, but since I had a dropped pitman arm in the garage, left over from my red Scrambler build, i installed it. I prefer "flipping" the tie rod/drag link to the top of the knuckles, for clearance and angles, but since I already had this part.................. Besides, I always wanted to experience first hand the reduced steering throw caused by a dropped pitman arm. A future "upgrade" can correct this, for now, it will get me rolling.
Picture of the stock vs. RE drop pitman arm.
And installed, a much better angle. Besides having to change out the pitman arm tie rod end which had slack, all the other ends are fine. The tie rod and drag link are also straight, no bends, for now.
Since it was good weather Sunday, I primed/painted the rear cross member that holds up the rear of the gas tank/skid.
The cleaned tank, installed inside the repainted skid plate, secured by the factory center strap.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Close up of the gas tank, note the 4/84 date.
I am going to see if the factory sending unit will work. I cleaned it up, installed a new sock filter, and a new o-ring. I tested the float for a couple of days by holding it underwater. It did not leak, so hopefully it will be good to go.
And the sending unit installed. I rerouted the lines similar to how it was from the factory. I used all new rubber lines, fuel injection rated on the supply and return lines. Note the red, green, and yellow zip ties:
RED - Supply
YELLOW - Return
GREEN - Vent
I did this so it would be easy for mew to hook them up correctly. It gets kind of "hectic" when you are reinstalling the tank, this should help me make sure everything is hooked up correctly.
And installed.
After hooking up the fuel fill/vent hoses, changing out the rear axle vent hose, and hooking up the fuel sending unit wiring harness, I reinstalled the factory rubber flap things.
I have now reinstalled everything that had been previously removed. My next "major" project will be removing the transfer case and transmission for inspection/seal replacement. I might drop them this coming weekend. In the meanwhile, I think I might pull the grill for paint stripping/repainting work. Maybe a few "easy" projects before I dive into the gear boxes.
The axle work is now complete.
On the suspension, I need to retorque all the fasteners, plus install new sway bar bushings/longer end links
I ordered some aluminum plugs for the rims, I am going to get them TIG welded in place, that should fix that "issue".
One last picture, after a long weekend:
That's it for now.
I am going to see if the factory sending unit will work. I cleaned it up, installed a new sock filter, and a new o-ring. I tested the float for a couple of days by holding it underwater. It did not leak, so hopefully it will be good to go.
And the sending unit installed. I rerouted the lines similar to how it was from the factory. I used all new rubber lines, fuel injection rated on the supply and return lines. Note the red, green, and yellow zip ties:
RED - Supply
YELLOW - Return
GREEN - Vent
I did this so it would be easy for mew to hook them up correctly. It gets kind of "hectic" when you are reinstalling the tank, this should help me make sure everything is hooked up correctly.
And installed.
After hooking up the fuel fill/vent hoses, changing out the rear axle vent hose, and hooking up the fuel sending unit wiring harness, I reinstalled the factory rubber flap things.
I have now reinstalled everything that had been previously removed. My next "major" project will be removing the transfer case and transmission for inspection/seal replacement. I might drop them this coming weekend. In the meanwhile, I think I might pull the grill for paint stripping/repainting work. Maybe a few "easy" projects before I dive into the gear boxes.
The axle work is now complete.
On the suspension, I need to retorque all the fasteners, plus install new sway bar bushings/longer end links
I ordered some aluminum plugs for the rims, I am going to get them TIG welded in place, that should fix that "issue".
One last picture, after a long weekend:
That's it for now.
- City
- Bedford
- State
- NH
Curious as to what you meant by "steering throw" is it the radius decrease or the ease of steering you were looking to see?
On the CJ5 I was working on, I took off the pitman arm now that it is back to stock configuration and it is actually slightly harder to turn the wheel at a complete stop, so I wasn't sure what part you were getting at.
I know on my CJ7 before I flipped the TRE's and took off the drop pitman arm, I had no turning radius at all, now that it is flipped it is back to a more reasonable turning radius.
cb
On the CJ5 I was working on, I took off the pitman arm now that it is back to stock configuration and it is actually slightly harder to turn the wheel at a complete stop, so I wasn't sure what part you were getting at.
I know on my CJ7 before I flipped the TRE's and took off the drop pitman arm, I had no turning radius at all, now that it is flipped it is back to a more reasonable turning radius.
cb
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
The turning radius increase/lack of "throw" was what I was referring to
I have never personally owned a Jeep with a dropped pitman arm, but I always heard about the larger turning radius/lack of throw when the suspension is crossed up that is a "side effect"
I figure that this will be an experiment for me
Appreciate it
And I think you may be right about the dropped pitman arm, but since the front tires will hardly be on the ground at the dunes this year anyway, I figured it would not matter
I need to step up the pace, August is just around the corner, plus I have SMORR in two weeks, National in June, ect....
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
My understanding is that it's just the turning radius period, not only in certain situations. Your comparison pic shows the difference perfectly in the distance from the center of the sector shaft to where the tie rod end mounts. Shorter distance, less steering throw. Not just when "crossed up".
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Very interesting
I think I did notice what you are talking about:
Stock pitman arm - Drag link is closer to tie rod at the steering box end
Dropped Pitman arm - Drag link is further away from tie rod at the steering box end
I can see what you are saying, it probably will make a difference all of the time
If I have time, I will buy a few more inserts, ream the knuckles, and "flip" the factory tie rod/drag link
If I don't have time, I will just "steer from the rear" with the skinny pedal
- City
- Cobourg, Ontario, Cana
- State
- da
I can see what you are saying, it probably will make a difference all of the time
It WILL make a difference ALL the time. And with a long wheel base, its sucks driving anywhere but in a straight line.
- City
- Dillsboro
- State
- IN
Dang! I tought I was the only one that knew how to do that!
Think SAND!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Spoil Sport
Dang! I tought I was the only one that knew how to do that!
Think SAND!
Yep, it's kinda of tuff to "drift" with a 6
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
And yet another "Sanford and Son" moment:
I loaded up the assembled tires/wheels to get them broke back down. The boxes were for the wheels, once they were removed. The tire guys were cool and broke them down for free
I ordered some of the plugs linked below to thread into the threaded holes. I will then get them TIG welded in place. This might be overkill, but I think it is the "best" way to permanently seal these holes.
http://eastcoastspeed.com/cart/moroso-pipe-plugs-aluminum-38-p-7688.html
All that being said, the "backwards" valve stems did not leak at all
I now have a couple of hours of "fun" removing all of the red Loctite from the threaded holes
That's it for now.
I loaded up the assembled tires/wheels to get them broke back down. The boxes were for the wheels, once they were removed. The tire guys were cool and broke them down for free
I ordered some of the plugs linked below to thread into the threaded holes. I will then get them TIG welded in place. This might be overkill, but I think it is the "best" way to permanently seal these holes.
http://eastcoastspeed.com/cart/moroso-pipe-plugs-aluminum-38-p-7688.html
All that being said, the "backwards" valve stems did not leak at all
I now have a couple of hours of "fun" removing all of the red Loctite from the threaded holes
That's it for now.