I was able to get the carb rebuilt/adjusted this weekend, about 95% happy with the way it runs now. Not going to do a "step by step", the FSM is really good for that. None the less, here are some picture I took along the way.
The "cursed" BBD on my new favorite "work bench", the front porch LOL:
The next few pictures are just random pictures I took before I tore it all down, so it would be easier to remember how linkages attach, which ports are plugged, etc.
The float bowl had a little bit of "stuff" in it. Since I cleaned out the fuel tank/changed out all the rubber fuel lines recently, hopefully it will stay clean for now on.
The only other real "surprise", the rod that supports the "bowl vent flap" was bent. This rod has some "cast" that keeps it locked in place. I broke off the casting "flash", removed the bent rod, found a replacement rod in my stash of BBD carbs.
Side view, then top view, looking at flap/bent rod:
A little bit of trash up here, not too bad.
Quick shot of my "work bench", showing how I kind of kept the parts organized.
The only tools required:
The mixture adjusting screws are OK, no damaged tips.
I used this rebuild kit, it is WRONG. It did not have a few of the correct gaskets.
And through the miracle of the internet, one rebuilt Carter BBD. This one took me a few hours, I was having some issues with it, but got there in the end.
I reinstalled the carb, and installed/adjusted a new Sol-Vac unit, since it was missing off of this Jeep when i got it:
I started with the mixture screws out 1.5 turns, it was lean and would start surging, backed each out 3/4 more of a turn, let it warm up, then fine tuned it. It is running super great now, very happy with it. I might need to revisit the choke, it is too tight/taking too long to come off, need to back it off a hair, especially since it over 90 degrees here already!!!
Of course, as soon a I get done installing the carb and adjusting it, it starts to rain. No bother, I went and drove it around anyway, very happy with it!!!
I have been trying to keep this one out of the weather, oh well. The good news: it is so hot here, 30 minutes after the rain, it is so hot it is dry again, and the pavement is steaming!!!!!!!
On the test drive, I drove to Lowes first. When I left, and shifted into second gear, I could hear the engine revving, watch the tack climbing, no increase in speed. At first, I thought "crap", the clutch is slipping. Nope, the ass end broke loose on the slick asphalt and was starting to drift sideways. I am very happy with this one now, it runs awesome!!!
Later on, on an empty/wet/sharp curve road, I was able to "Tokyo Drift" it around the corner, until the ass end stepped out too far, and I flat spun it out. Note to self -take it easy on slick roads!!!!!!! Like I said, very happy with it, it is really fun to drive now!!!
And remember - this is 100% stock Jeep - engine, gears, tire size, and cursed feedback BBD carb, with all emissions intact, CA emissions at that. So, you can get them to run really well, it just takes time/patience
I went ahead and refilled it with gas. On the first tank,a round 240 miles, showing 1/4 tank left.
It took 16 gallons to fill it up, so gauge works, and it was getting 16 mpg. It should get better mileage now, since the carb/timing adjustments.
Gauge almost went to all the way FULL immediately:
After about 2-3 minutes, the gauge went all the way up, so happy with that.
A few pictures of my "special" stock Jeep CJ tools, nothing fancy:
An old Sears tach I bought off eBay, easy to observe under the hood, way better then trying to look at the stock tach in the dash:
Cheap Autozone sourced "Boost/Vacuum" gauge, great for diagnostics on vacuum stuff:
I started to work on my next project, the heater missing the big flap. I bought a used box off of Dustin, and broke it to pieces, to remove the flap assembly. My box is in better/looks better, it is just missing the flap.
Anyway, after carb work, hammer work was good:
I was able to remove the flap from the rod, after soaking it in oil/persuading it with a punch and hammer:
I plan on cleaning up/painting the rod and flap, then installing them in my heater box, whenever I get around to changing out the heater core.
It was a nice day Sunday, so I put about 75 miles on the Jeep. I get so busy working on them, sometimes I forget how fun it is to drive them. After all the tune up work, this one is really fun to drive. Stock Jeeps are fun too!! Anyway, nice day for a beach drive:
And happy to report, my only real "leak" so far: the oil fill cap.
Before the beach drive:
Fairly easy fix.
I need to work on the brakes next. They work fine, but I am concerned about all the old/dried up rubber on the lines/wheel cylinder/etc.
Important things first - All the basics have to be right for the feedback system to work correctly. I went through all of this stuff previously:
1) Cleaned out the fuel tank
2) Rebuilt/properly adjusted carb
3) Replaced/correctly routed all vacuum lines
4) Installed a known to be working harness and MCU
5) Adjusted timing correctly (to spec and procedure)
So, my Jeep seems to be running fine, no complaints.
On the feedback system, there are checks you can make, with a multi-meter/test light, to see if things are OK. There are pages and pages of flow charts in the FSM that tell you how to do this. Only problem - it would take a long time to go through all this stuff.
This is where the ET-501 comes into play. It is a diagnostic tool for the feed back system. You can plug it into the diagnostic port to test system operations, and plug it into the MCU directly to make sure it is good. This AMC system is NOT as sophisticated as an OBD1 or OBD2. The computer does not store "trouble codes", and you can't see real time output from the senors. This tool basically takes a "snap shot" of the entire sytem at a moment in time, verifies voltages/ouputs, and lets you know if there is a problem.
The ET-501 case, and the instruction manual:
What's in the box!!!!!!!!!! (in my best Brad Pitt Voice)
Warning/Instruction Label inside the box lid:
The display/button part, with the adapter plugged in:
Back side of the display unit. On the right side, the green part, that is where the "memory modules" plug in:
My kit/instructions reference two memory modules. I have seen others on eBay. Mine came with the following:
4 cylinder - 83, 84, 85
6 cylinder - 81, 82, 83, 84
So, I do not have an '85 - '86 module. I'm not sure if they made them? IIRC, the wiring/sensors on '84 and up are very similar, no real differences?
Page from the instructions that shows what should be included:
And the Five cables:
Cable 1 - '81 Six Cylinder
Cable 2 -'81 Six Cylinder
Cable 3 - '82 - '84 Six Cylinder and '83 - '84 Four Cylinder
Cable 4 - '82 Six Cylinder
Cable 5 - '83 - '84 Six and Four Cylinder
Cable 3 and 5 are the most important to me. Cable 3 plugs into the diagnostic port and will test the system. Cable 5 plugs into the MCU and will test it. I am currently running an '83 harness/MCU on my '85, so I test for an '83.
First I warmed the Jeep up by driving it around.
Then, hooked up the testers battery leads, then followed the on screen prompts:
You only have two buttons to push, so you have to wait for the screen to automatically scroll to the correct years. It starts at 1981 and 1982. After a few seconds it moves to the 1983 and 1984 pictured.
Big PIA - there is no "back" or "clear" button. If you make a mistake, you have to unplug tester from the battery and start over.
I tested the system first, at the diagnostic port.
First, choose Year.
Then USA or Canada
Then Altitude or No ALtitude
Then Manual or Automatic
It then tells you turn Key On
Then Floor It
Then Start Jeep
And Finally, "Floor It Once" (while the engine is running
OK, I did all of that. BUT, I made a mistake. The first time I tested the system, I floored it once. It didn't appear to do anything, so I floored it again. This was a mistake, After you floor it once, it takes a minute or two to scan everything. I floored it twice, so it came back and said I had a problem with the MAP stuff.
So, I re-tested, floored it only once. This time, it said I had a problem with the PVC system. This is OK. I figured the tester would say this. These Jeeps originally came with this electric gizmo called a "PCV Solenoid". A few years later, during a recall, they said to remove it. So, the scan tool is letting me know it is not getting feed back from this component. So, my system checks out 100%.
I then checked the MCU. Mistake #2, I did not push the connectors in all the way:
So, I pushed the connectors in all the way, re-tested, good to go:
This explains why the metering rods do not move at idle, the system goes back to "Open Loop" Mode. IF you throttle it up, it will go into "Closed Loop" mode, and the metering rods will move. This is a big difference compared to say GM TBI or 4.0 MPI, which will go into "Closed Loop" at idle.
Anyway, a very neat tool, very useful for trouble shooting, not just the MCU, but other stuff, too. You can check all of this stuff without the tool, but it would take a long time to check each circuit.
The interesting thing about this AMC system - minus injectors, it works much like GM TBI, even has all the same sensors; O2, MAP, WOT, Coolant Temp, Knock, etc.
Another curiosity - This 4.2 system uses a knock sensor to retard spark timing in the even of "ping/knock". The 4.0 systems do not.
Pretty cool tool, would be even better if it made cool '80's sound effects while working - "Doop, Beep, Bop"
My good buddy JeepAddict stopped at his favorite coast restaurant, "The Shed", on Sunday, on his way to Destin, Florida. So, I got him to bring me another top/doors. It is a used Bestop unit, it actually came off of JeeperDD's old silver CJ-7, that JeepAddict has now.
"It's a small word after all"
One last picture with the old top:
And with the "new/used" top, big improvement IMO.
I would love to have a NOS Whitco top/doors, but I do not feel like spending that kind of money right now. I might try to clean up the old Whitco doors and use them with this top.
So it runs really well, time to work on the brakes.
The brakes work very well, but I am concerned about the age/condition of all the rubber lines, seals, etc. The rest of the rubber components on this Jeep were dried out, no reason to think the brake components survived unscathed.
Up on stands:
This was on the passenger side, pretty sure the anti-rattle clips don't go like that:
Neat little bleeder cap boots:
This rubber brake line does not look terrible, but I don't trust them.
The pads look pretty new, no real wear.
The passenger side rotor has some slight grooves on the outer face. I will change both rotors whenever I decide to repack the front wheel bearings.
Driver side was about the same, except a missing anti-rattle clip, a broke anti-rattle clip, and more spiders!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Brake pads look good, spiders looks dead.
Rotor on this side looks good.
Jumping back to the Passenger side, I had a hell of a time loosening the original rubber brake line from the chassis hard line. I used a torch to heat up the fitting, which is always fun, wear goggles. So, heat up the fitting, the rubber line will blow out, then keep heating until the rubber inside the fitting catches fire LOL:
Even with that, a line wrench would not budge it, had to use big vice-grips, which slightly messed up the fittings nice hex shape.
Spent a few minutes with a flat file, filed down the ridges, a line wrench will now fit fine on it again. I have a fancy flare tool, but I hate flaring stuff. This fitting will work fine, just not as pretty as the other one. If the threads were damaged I would swap it out, but for aesthetic damage, nope, it will work fine.
Passenger side complete, driver side looks the same.
How I install the anti-rattle clips:
Will try to change out the rear brake rubber line, rear wheel cylinders/shoes/hardware tonight, master cylinder and bleeding tomorrow.
Fingers crossed I get the rear rubber line off with no drama, it is a bigger PIA to get to,