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What did you do with your Scrambler today? December 2014 Version

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jammer1 said:
M.O.R.E makes a plate to move the axle 1" forward or backward. Will this still work with the driveshaft (have enough spline to stay together at full droop). I'm starting into the new wiring and new gauges, I know the feeling.:banghead:
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I have set of those. If you want/need them I'd make you a deal on then, only used a short time.
 
jammer1 said:
M.O.R.E makes a plate to move the axle 1" forward or backward. Will this still work with the driveshaft (have enough spline to stay together at full droop). I'm starting into the new wiring and new gauges, I know the feeling.:banghead:
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This is an option, but be aware that there is not much extra clearance between the tie-rod and pitman arm to begin with. If you move the axle forward you will likely also need to move the steering box forward so the pitman arm doesn't hit the tie rod. M.O.R.E. also makes a nice steering box mount that will move your steering box about 3/4" forward to restore clearance (requires cutting a small notch in the frame front cross member power steering hoses.. if you have power steering that is).
 
bigwalton said:
And tie rod flip.
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Ok. So I am looking at upgrading the tie rod. And drag link too? And now you bring up the tie rod flip? Is that just putting it on with the tie rod above the knuckle? What does that do? Any extra parts? It looks like the diff would get in the way. I guess I will start researching.
 
A tie rod flip is used for clearance and to keep the geometry correct on major lifts. The tie rod and drag link are removed, the holes in the knuckle (arm) are either enlarged and reamed (for a larger tie rod ends) or reamed so that the tie rods can be mounted on top of the knuckle. You also do the same to the drag link. The geometry for the steering is that you want the tie rods and the drag link running parallel to each other. On a lift the drag links angle increases (no longer parallel). P1000660.jpg. If you're not doing a major lift or extreme off roading you probability don't need. I would worry about getting a new frame.
 
jammer1 said:
A tie rod flip is used for clearance and to keep the geometry correct on major lifts. The tie rod and drag link are removed, the holes in the knuckle (arm) are either enlarged and reamed (for a larger tie rod ends) or reamed so that the tie rods can be mounted on top of the knuckle. You also do the same to the drag link. The geometry for the steering is that you want the tie rods and the drag link running parallel to each other. On a lift the drag links angle increases (no longer parallel). View attachment 45743. If you're not doing a major lift or extreme off roading you probability don't need. I would worry about getting a new frame.
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Thanks for the information. Good idea on saving my $$ for the frame for now. Sometimes I forget that part is still needed.
 
The frame replacement will be expensive. At that time you'll need to decide if you want a lift, or new stock springs or reuse your springs (if not sagging). In any case new spring bushings, body bushings, u-bolts etc. You'll also do new brake lines, gas lines body bolts, and other parts that you can't reuse or shouldn't use. When it's all done it will be worth it. Your set (till the next thing goes or you want to expand). When your done it will be the way you want (and like my wife says, "You'll be buried in your jeep". :rolleyes::thumbsup:
 
Ha. My wife is already planning to bury me in the Jeep. Sooner than I am planning I might add.

But yes, I am sure that the cost of the frame will just be the start of the expenses for that job. I already have about 2.5-3 inches of lift but will probably do more at the time. And new gas tank etc while I have it all apart. Shhhhhh. Don't let my wife read this.
 
Christmas came early!! Guess what I'll be doing between family celebrations over the next few days....

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Fresh from my paint and body buddy who has been working on changing these from this....

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To this....

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Can't wait to get these beauties mounted up!


 
Nice! I have a pair of doors that need that treatment, but my friends are only good at drinking my beer :(
 
Look what came in for the CJ6 project on Christmas Eve.

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A set from Speedhut
 
That looks nice!

I hit my Tie Rod with a bunch of PB Blaster to help in the removal.
 
gaducker said:
Just get you a reamer and upgrade it all to 1 ton tie rod ends, you can order a kit with all you need in it.
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But as far as I remember the 1ton GM stuff (TREs) does not fit in the stock d30 knuckles -not room enough-... unless one in top/from above and the other under(stock position) the knuckle.
Did you installed them with D30 knuckles?

Merry Christmas guys !!!
 
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I ordered mine on 11/29/14 online.
 
Yep a good surprise, at this point I figured after the first of the year so it was GOOD!
 
When I heard about the sale (around thanksgiving) the web site said the orders would be at least 6 weeks. I got a email that they were waiting for window lens. I got the gauges about 10 days later.
 
I ordered mine on 11/29/14 too and have not seen them yet. They were for a Christmas present so I was hoping to get them before today. Oh well.... Good things come to those who wait.....right??


 
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