Spankrjs' 1984 Long Term Project
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
- City
- Columbia
- State
- MO
The progress you make is awesome! This is the one I've really been waiting to see come together since it is very similar to mine (and will probably be done before mine!). I remember seeing this one when it was for sale and thinking it would be an awesome project. It couldn't have gone to a better home!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Are you done yet?
Look forward to seeing "YS II" (Yard Scrambler Two) on the dunes. Six days 'till "Reservation Monday".
Great looking Scrambler my friend.
I am going to try my best to have it there this year
Appreciate it Toby
Thank you very much
So far, it is great. It should be a fairly "fun" project. I will probably be passing this one on once I get it running/driving, but I am going to treat it like it will be staying with me, we will see............I like that Scrambler. I look forward to your engine to CJ wiring writeup(s). I have an '83 CJ-7 Renegade with a 4.3L Chevy V-6 mounted. However all the wiring is in a box.
It might be awhile before I get to the engine wiring, but I will try to be descriptive
This project came with a "harness", but I don't think making a harness out of the donor vehicle wiring would be too hard
Appreciate it
I am going to paint the grill to match. I am going to try to do it myself first, but if it comes out like crap, I will let a "real" painter paint it
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
AWESOME!!! Cant wait to drool over this one at Silver Lake...
I am going to try my hardest to get it there
I have already "hit at it pretty hard" and I now have a "plan of attack", I will update soon
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
I am going to paint the grill to match. I am going to try to do it myself first, but if it comes out like crap, I will let a "real" painter paint it
I'd offer that with the matching hard top, a different color grille might be just the ticket. While I don't dislike the matching top as much as I would have thought if you'd tried to describe it vs. seeing pictures, I think a matching grille would push it over the edge of too much of a good thing. It also would eliminate the issue of the new paint not perfectly matching the old paint.
I think something complimenting the stripes might be cool or maybe a Sherwood-ish green in homage to your recently "completed" project or your nice stocker.
Just some thoughts for consideration.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I'd offer that with the matching hard top, a different color grille might be just the ticket. While I don't dislike the matching top as much as I would have thought if you'd tried to describe it vs. seeing pictures, I think a matching grille would push it over the edge of too much of a good thing. It also would eliminate the issue of the new paint not perfectly matching the old paint.
I think something complimenting the stripes might be cool or maybe a Sherwood-ish green in homage to your recently "completed" project or your nice stocker.
Just some thoughts for consideration.
Those are some good ideas
I just want it to "look good" when it is making it to the top of "Test Hill"
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I was going to take a short brake between "projects", but August is coming up fast, so no rest for the weary, or is that wicked ???
I will go through some pictures first, then explain my "game plan".
Ok, when I bought the Scrambler, I was told the front ring and pinion ratio did not match the rear. First things first, lets pull covers and see what I have.
The front differential is open, 3.54 Spicer Ring and Pinion. The factory tag confirmed this. They look to be in perfect shape.
And the new looking fluid that came out. Much better then "yard Scrambler's" front differential!!!!
When I bought the Jeep, I was told it had 4.10 gears in the back. I pulled the cover, this is what I found. Note the differential.
And more new oil.
Ok, so brand new 4.10's in the rear, 3.54 in the front. No big deal, I had already figured on a new front ring and pinion. And of course, when you go from 3.54 to 4.10 you need a new carrier. Well, since the rear has a Detroit Locker and full float axles, I can't really "skimp" out on the front end. Since i have to get a new carrier.....................
More on that later.
Besides the rear axle "Detroit Locker Bonus", the previous owner was planning ahead - plug welded differential, stitch welds on the tubes.
While I was laying on the ground, took a picture of the tires. All four tires on the ground still have the original blue stuff on the white letters. There are also remnants of the stickers that were stuck on the treads.
Random picture form the rear, looking forward. New rear drive shaft and exhaust. I am sure my OCD will kick in and the drive shaft will be repainted.
Leaking/dirty/nasty Dana 300. And again, I am sure OCD will prevail.
I will go through some pictures first, then explain my "game plan".
Ok, when I bought the Scrambler, I was told the front ring and pinion ratio did not match the rear. First things first, lets pull covers and see what I have.
The front differential is open, 3.54 Spicer Ring and Pinion. The factory tag confirmed this. They look to be in perfect shape.
And the new looking fluid that came out. Much better then "yard Scrambler's" front differential!!!!
When I bought the Jeep, I was told it had 4.10 gears in the back. I pulled the cover, this is what I found. Note the differential.
And more new oil.
Ok, so brand new 4.10's in the rear, 3.54 in the front. No big deal, I had already figured on a new front ring and pinion. And of course, when you go from 3.54 to 4.10 you need a new carrier. Well, since the rear has a Detroit Locker and full float axles, I can't really "skimp" out on the front end. Since i have to get a new carrier.....................
More on that later.
Besides the rear axle "Detroit Locker Bonus", the previous owner was planning ahead - plug welded differential, stitch welds on the tubes.
While I was laying on the ground, took a picture of the tires. All four tires on the ground still have the original blue stuff on the white letters. There are also remnants of the stickers that were stuck on the treads.
Random picture form the rear, looking forward. New rear drive shaft and exhaust. I am sure my OCD will kick in and the drive shaft will be repainted.
Leaking/dirty/nasty Dana 300. And again, I am sure OCD will prevail.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
And a picture of the transmission mount. I believe the PO was using the thinner steel between the piece of cut tubing/skid plate to "shim" the height of the rear output yoke to get the rear drive shaft angles set, not a bad idea.
And the fuel pump. I believe this is a "pusher" pump, not a "puller". I will relocate this, as it is currently mounted on the frame in the engine compartment.
Quick picture of the gas cap. I removed the cap, took a sniff, smelled like varnish.
Where does all this leave me? From all the information I have, the PO bought this Scrambler in 2008 from the original owners. It had not moved in 10 years when he bought it. I believe 2009 was when the engine swap work was performed. And the TBI receipts are dated 2003!!!!!!
I am going to approach this project as if nothing was done to it. I am going to start at the bottom, work my way up, go through everything, and service/replace/modify/finish installing as required.
Quick outline of my "Game Plan":
1) Front Axle - Install 4.10 gears, Detroit TruTrac Differential, Superior front shafts, new bearings, seals, and brakes. Since it has a V8, I didn't want to tempt fate using stock axle shafts. I will probably upgrade the lock in hubs, too, just not sure which way I am heading with that just yet.
I didn't want to put an automatic locker in, and I didn't want to spring for a high dollar selectable locker, especially considering I am just starting out on this journey. I was always curious how these LSD worked, figured I would give it a shot. I know it's not a "locker", but this rig ain't exactly a rock crawler, either. For my use, street, sand, mud, moderate trails, I figured I would try one out. I had to buy a new differential case due to the ratio change, what better time then now to upgrade. If I don't like it, I will upgrade it again, and keep the TruTrac for my stock green Scrambler.
2) Rear Axle - new diff cover gasket. It has a new ring and pinion and a new Detroit Locker, no changes needed here. Repack rear wheel bearings, change out axle seals/hub seals as necessary. Install new brake components as needed.
3) Suspension - It has a new Superlift 4' lift installed. I will retorque all hardware, install shocks. The current shackle are Con-Ferr, HD models. They are 5-3/4" center of bolt to center of bolt. Stock is 3", RE is 5". Once this thing is driving, I will check the alignment. Correct caster as needed. If I still don't like it, swap shackles. Install new sway bar bushings and links.
4) Frame - It is solid. I will check all bolted on parts/fasteners. I will install a factory front bumper, and probably a steering box brace.
5) Body - for now, nothing. It is solid. The windshield frame is dying, but it will work for now. I do need to adjust/repair/replace a few of the hard top clamps.
6) Fuel tank -factory plastic 20 gallon tank. Drain and flush, new sending unit if necessary. Replace all rubber lines, relocate fuel pump, install new hard lines.
7) Transfer case - Remove, clean, paint, change leaking seals. Inspect and repair internals as needed.
8) Transmission - Remove it from vehicle. Check/fill torque converter with fluid. Re-install, keep fingers crossed. Supposedly it is rebuilt. Install all wires, shifter cable, etc. Re-engineer/finish installing the transmission mount/shifter assembly. Lots to do here.
9) Drive shafts - Rear is new, Paint, replace u-joints as necessary. The front is MIA. Once the Scrambler is drivable, get a front shaft made. The clearance around the transmission pan is tight.
10) Engine - re-install TBI harness. Finish tying that harness into vehicle harness. Install o2 sensor bung in exhaust. Some basic maintenance. Keep fingers crossed.
11) Interior - Install new seats, install new gauges.
That's the high lights of my "plan". I am sure I skipped over lots of details.
That's it for now.
And the fuel pump. I believe this is a "pusher" pump, not a "puller". I will relocate this, as it is currently mounted on the frame in the engine compartment.
Quick picture of the gas cap. I removed the cap, took a sniff, smelled like varnish.
Where does all this leave me? From all the information I have, the PO bought this Scrambler in 2008 from the original owners. It had not moved in 10 years when he bought it. I believe 2009 was when the engine swap work was performed. And the TBI receipts are dated 2003!!!!!!
I am going to approach this project as if nothing was done to it. I am going to start at the bottom, work my way up, go through everything, and service/replace/modify/finish installing as required.
Quick outline of my "Game Plan":
1) Front Axle - Install 4.10 gears, Detroit TruTrac Differential, Superior front shafts, new bearings, seals, and brakes. Since it has a V8, I didn't want to tempt fate using stock axle shafts. I will probably upgrade the lock in hubs, too, just not sure which way I am heading with that just yet.
I didn't want to put an automatic locker in, and I didn't want to spring for a high dollar selectable locker, especially considering I am just starting out on this journey. I was always curious how these LSD worked, figured I would give it a shot. I know it's not a "locker", but this rig ain't exactly a rock crawler, either. For my use, street, sand, mud, moderate trails, I figured I would try one out. I had to buy a new differential case due to the ratio change, what better time then now to upgrade. If I don't like it, I will upgrade it again, and keep the TruTrac for my stock green Scrambler.
2) Rear Axle - new diff cover gasket. It has a new ring and pinion and a new Detroit Locker, no changes needed here. Repack rear wheel bearings, change out axle seals/hub seals as necessary. Install new brake components as needed.
3) Suspension - It has a new Superlift 4' lift installed. I will retorque all hardware, install shocks. The current shackle are Con-Ferr, HD models. They are 5-3/4" center of bolt to center of bolt. Stock is 3", RE is 5". Once this thing is driving, I will check the alignment. Correct caster as needed. If I still don't like it, swap shackles. Install new sway bar bushings and links.
4) Frame - It is solid. I will check all bolted on parts/fasteners. I will install a factory front bumper, and probably a steering box brace.
5) Body - for now, nothing. It is solid. The windshield frame is dying, but it will work for now. I do need to adjust/repair/replace a few of the hard top clamps.
6) Fuel tank -factory plastic 20 gallon tank. Drain and flush, new sending unit if necessary. Replace all rubber lines, relocate fuel pump, install new hard lines.
7) Transfer case - Remove, clean, paint, change leaking seals. Inspect and repair internals as needed.
8) Transmission - Remove it from vehicle. Check/fill torque converter with fluid. Re-install, keep fingers crossed. Supposedly it is rebuilt. Install all wires, shifter cable, etc. Re-engineer/finish installing the transmission mount/shifter assembly. Lots to do here.
9) Drive shafts - Rear is new, Paint, replace u-joints as necessary. The front is MIA. Once the Scrambler is drivable, get a front shaft made. The clearance around the transmission pan is tight.
10) Engine - re-install TBI harness. Finish tying that harness into vehicle harness. Install o2 sensor bung in exhaust. Some basic maintenance. Keep fingers crossed.
11) Interior - Install new seats, install new gauges.
That's the high lights of my "plan". I am sure I skipped over lots of details.
That's it for now.
- City
- God's Country
- State
- AR
I have a front (heavy) driveshaft that I bought off ebay years ago thinking it would work as a spare for Dad's scrambler, but it ended up being off/ not the right length. IIRC the guy had it in a Scrambler with 700R and 350. If you want it for a front you can have it. I can measure if need be, or you can have it anyway and have it modified to fit. It is a lot heavier than a stock front driveshaft.
jeepinjosh
Basic User
- City
- pell city
- State
- al
your ability to put a plan in place, the know how to do all the needed action, and the motivation/OCD to make it happen is incredible. 
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I greatly appreciate it
But, let me check my transmission pan clearance first. It looks really, really close, like only about a 1-1/4" OD tube will slide past, it's pretty tight
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
your ability to put a plan in place, the know how to do all the needed action, and the motivation/OCD to make it happen is incredible.
Thanks, I appreciate it
But, the easy part is the "plan", now I just have to see it through
- City
- God's Country
- State
- AR
I greatly appreciate it
But, let me check my transmission pan clearance first. It looks really, really close, like only about a 1-1/4" OD tube will slide past, it's pretty tight
It's 27 3/4 from ujoint center to ujoint center when fully collapsed. Slip joint has no slop and moves freely. Think it's gonna be about 2" diameter tubing though......
Attachments
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I sure appreciate your generosity, but the tubing OD on that drive shaft is too big
But, I did discover that a stock size CJ front shaft will clear, more on that later
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
No more just talking, time to start turning wrenches.
Since I need a new ring and pinion/diff for the front, I am going to remove the axle to bring to my gear guy. I thought about setting this one up myself, but in the interest of time, I figured I would let an expert do it.
Up on jack stands, starting to look like "Yard Scrambler" all over again!!!
And after about an hour and a half, the front axle stripped down, ready to come out.
So far, and I hate to curse myself, this Scrambler has been a joy to work on. All the wheel bearings/spindles/inner hubs/outer hubs/factory axle shafts/ etc. all are in great shape. And, since it just had the new lift installed, all of the suspension bolts were super easy to remove, I only had to use some "liquid wrench" on one u-bolt nut!!!!
Picture of the removed parts, ready for cleaning.
And its out.
And heading to the gear guy.
Once the axle was out, I decided to start prepping the factory 20 gallon plastic tank for removal. I wanted to siphon out the existing gas to make it easier, so I did that last night. And this is what came out:
About 2.5 gallons of horse pee/Budweiser mix that smells really bad. A little "debris" came out with the old gas, I am thinking that maybe the pick up tube/sending unit is falling apart. I will find out once I remove the tank.
After looking underneath the Scrambler, and doing some "Internet Research", I was made aware of how critical front drive shaft to transmission case clearance is. This got me really worried.
After investigating what I have, it appears that the previous owner did a fantastic job of selecting parts/setting the engine mounts to the frame. The engine is offset to the driver side by about 2-3 inches, and he used the "long" Novak transmission to transfer case adapter. Those two pieces, coupled to the fact that this CJ-8 has a 4" lift installed, means that a "stock" OD front drive shaft will clear the pan and still have a little room to spare. I am extremely pleased.
About the only "modification" that I need to do to the transmission case/pan is pictured below.
The little metal "tang" that is facing down off the transmission pan will have to be removed, fairly simple Dremel job.
That's it for now.
Since I need a new ring and pinion/diff for the front, I am going to remove the axle to bring to my gear guy. I thought about setting this one up myself, but in the interest of time, I figured I would let an expert do it.
Up on jack stands, starting to look like "Yard Scrambler" all over again!!!
And after about an hour and a half, the front axle stripped down, ready to come out.
So far, and I hate to curse myself, this Scrambler has been a joy to work on. All the wheel bearings/spindles/inner hubs/outer hubs/factory axle shafts/ etc. all are in great shape. And, since it just had the new lift installed, all of the suspension bolts were super easy to remove, I only had to use some "liquid wrench" on one u-bolt nut!!!!
Picture of the removed parts, ready for cleaning.
And its out.
And heading to the gear guy.
Once the axle was out, I decided to start prepping the factory 20 gallon plastic tank for removal. I wanted to siphon out the existing gas to make it easier, so I did that last night. And this is what came out:
About 2.5 gallons of horse pee/Budweiser mix that smells really bad. A little "debris" came out with the old gas, I am thinking that maybe the pick up tube/sending unit is falling apart. I will find out once I remove the tank.
After looking underneath the Scrambler, and doing some "Internet Research", I was made aware of how critical front drive shaft to transmission case clearance is. This got me really worried.
After investigating what I have, it appears that the previous owner did a fantastic job of selecting parts/setting the engine mounts to the frame. The engine is offset to the driver side by about 2-3 inches, and he used the "long" Novak transmission to transfer case adapter. Those two pieces, coupled to the fact that this CJ-8 has a 4" lift installed, means that a "stock" OD front drive shaft will clear the pan and still have a little room to spare. I am extremely pleased.
About the only "modification" that I need to do to the transmission case/pan is pictured below.
The little metal "tang" that is facing down off the transmission pan will have to be removed, fairly simple Dremel job.
That's it for now.
- City
- Bedford
- State
- NH
I went back but didn't see it... are you doing the ball joints as well... good time to do it when it is all apart.
cb
cb
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
You are correct, now is the time to change them
The current ones seem fine, but since I am changing everything else, might as well change them, too, not sure yet.....