• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

1983 Scrambler "STUMP JUMPER". Frame off, 5.3 Conversion.

zr10054 said:
Looking back I'm wishing I had.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking it's either the Atlas or the Stack 3 speed that gives the extra 2" clearance. I think the 241C is the right choice for your intended usage. I don't know if the 243C ever came in a passenger drop configuration. It's a cool idea and I'm interested to see if you can get it to work if you go that way.

I remember from my GM days that it was a 3 piece system, a switch on the dash, a transfer case control module, and the shift encoder motor. The front axle engagement solenoid was the most problematic piece, but you won't be using that. However- the switch on the dash tells the TCCM that you would like to be in 4WD. The TCCM then instructs the encoder motor to attempt the shift. The encoder motor then either shifts, or doesn't. This is usually usually due to drivetrain bind or speed issues. The encoder motor then tells the TCCM it's status, which in turn displays a solid light on the switch (shift completed), or a flashing light (try again but ready your checkbook, and you're stuck). In summary, it's a cool option but it could be more problematic than you think.

The shifting effort on the chain driven cases is awesome- you can lock the front hubs, and drive around in 2wd until the need arises. When you need 4wd, just firmly pull the lever at about 5mph, and it drops right into gear. No tugging and slamming like the old D300.
 
Randy i think you are right about the 243 not coming in a passenger offset. I have already ordered the manual shift 241C but if there is any way to convert it over to electric shift I'll sure be searching. I'm building this truck with as many up to date creature comforts as I can without creating myself a bunch of headaches. I've had keyless entry, power locks and power windows in my 81 for about 3 years now with no trouble so this truck will get that too and I may add keyless start also.
 
I have the 243 driverside drop in my crawler. I fabed a manual shifter for mine. I've had very good luck with it. I just can't get used to the pumpkin on the wrong side. :thumbsup:

Some times the "Easy" way is not the "Best" way either. :wave:
 
Randyzzz, It's good to have you back. Hope you stick around for a while.
 
zr10054 said:
I made a couple adjustment to the mounts and now have the engine off center about 1 1/4 inches and the drive shaft barely clears the pan. "BUT", what if you hit a pot hole, a boulder, rock or a steep embankment and you compress the suspension 4 or 5 inches and it moves sideways even 1/2 and inch. Disaster is what happens and I'm just not willing to take that chance. Sorry but good enough has never been enough for me. As I say in my signature, "cheap is not always cheaper".

I could get some more relief at the pan by simply taking a ball peen hammer and tapping some relief into the oil pan. This would be easy and cheap but it still doesn't address the suspension compression issue. I would rather be safe than sorry.

Another option would be to clock the 300 transfer case a few more degrees by re-drilling the adapters but I think I'll be happier with the 241C TC.

Guy's I could use a little moral support about right now so if you are reading this thread how about just saying hello or telling me what you think.
Click to expand...


I can tell you this, it would be a hell of a bump/obstacle to cause my front axle to slide over far enough that the front drive shaft would hit the transmission. If that ever happened, the axle would have to be ripped off the leaf springs, or the spring mounts torn off the frame.:shrug:

As far as suspension compression clearance issues, maybe if you have a full blown crawler it would hit. But, with that much suspension travel/intended usage, you wouldn't be running stock/stock width axles:shrug:

Yes, cheap is not always cheaper, but sometime the "K.I.S.S" principle come into play:thumbsup:
 
spankrjs said:
I can tell you this, it would be a hell of a bump/obstacle to cause my front axle to slide over far enough that the front drive shaft would hit the transmission. If that ever happened, the axle would have to be ripped off the leaf springs, or the spring mounts torn off the frame.:shrug:

As far as suspension compression clearance issues, maybe if you have a full blown crawler it would hit. But, with that much suspension travel/intended usage, you wouldn't be running stock/stock width axles:shrug:

Yes, cheap is not always cheaper, but sometime the "K.I.S.S" principle come into play:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I know you're correct and by being on this forum as long as I have been I really respect and appreciate your input. I think I have read every one of your post. We live close enough to each other to get together sometime.

Here is where I am. After a little adjusting I now have the engine mount at 1 1/4 inch offset to the drivers side. I am 1/4 inch away from the steering shaft which should be good. I set the body and the steering column back on the frame for another mock up. The front drive shaft still rubs the transmission pan but I have a 241C transfer case ordered which will give me another 1" of clearance and should be the final solution.
Having the shop, tools and equipment I have makes this job lot easier. In fact I've done this whole project so far by myself with no help. I take my time and think everything out before I start, not because I'm anal but because I need to do it safe. This is probably going to be my last build and I just want it to be right. Oh, maybe I am being a little anal too. :)
I love doing this stuff so it doesn't even seem like work to me.
 
Last edited:
zr10054 said:
I know you're correct and by being on this forum as long as I have been I really respect and appreciate your input. I think I have read every one of your post. We live close enough to each other to get together sometime.

Here is where I am. After a little adjusting I now have the engine mount at 1 1/4 inch offset to the drivers side. I am 1/4 inch away from the steering shaft which should be good. I set the body and the steering column back on the frame for another mock up. The front drive shaft still rubs the transmission pan but I have a 241C transfer case ordered which will give me another 1" of clearance and should be the final solution.
Having the shop, tools and equipment I have makes this job lot easier. In fact I've done this whole project so far by myself with no help. I take my time and think everything out before I start, not because I'm anal but because I need to do it safe. This is probably going to be my last build and I just want it to be right. Oh, maybe I am being a little anal too. :)
I love doing this stuff so it doesn't even seem like work to me.
Click to expand...

No problem:thumbsup:

I can measure my engine offset, but your 5.3 might be wider then my 5.7 with Ram-Horn manifolds. My engine is offset a pretty good amount to the driver side, you might not be able to offset that much:confused:

I just hate to see a chain drive transfer case in a CJ, unless it is Quadratec:thumbsup::twocents::cheers:

Hmm, Quadratec case behind a 5.3 giving you all wheel drive burn out potential...........:cheers:
 
Santa came buy again today with some more goodies.The first picture is the 2 1/2 inch lift kit. the second is my PVC mock-up drive shaft and the next two are header and steering shaft clearance.005811.jpgPVB mock up drive shaft002811.jpg003811.jpg004811.jpg
 
Last edited:
spankrjs said:
No problem:thumbsup:
Hmm, Quadratec case behind a 5.3 giving you all wheel drive burn out potential...........:cheers:
Click to expand...

"All wheel drive burn out" got me to dreaming about what it would be like to put the LS9 out of my ZR1 in the CJ. 638 hp.. Probably would make it undriveable.
 
Your driveshaft clearance issue is what makes me glad I did the scout dana axles because the diff is pushed over towards the frame another couple inches and will greatly help with that issue.
 
Kane said:
Your driveshaft clearance issue is what makes me glad I did the scout dana axles because the diff is pushed over towards the frame another couple inches and will greatly help with that issue.
Click to expand...

I'm going to wish i would have done that too since I plan on doing it later anyway. There are a number of options to deal with this drive shaft clearance issue and they are all good and all work. It's great that we can make a choice to what seems to fit our needs.
 
Last edited:
spankrjs said:
No problem:thumbsup:

I can measure my engine offset, but your 5.3 might be wider then my 5.7 with Ram-Horn manifolds. My engine is offset a pretty good amount to the driver side, you might not be able to offset that much:confused:

I just hate to see a chain drive transfer case in a CJ, unless it is Quadratec:thumbsup::twocents::cheers:

Hmm, Quadratec case behind a 5.3 giving you all wheel drive burn out potential...........:cheers:
Click to expand...

Quadratrac!
 
I'm in a holding stage waiting on the 241C transfer case which won't be here till Monday. But I did buy this 36 inch Global industries evaporator cooler to try and beat the heat. These things really do work well. I'll be glad when I able to move the Jeep into the air conditioned part of the garage.
 

Attachments

  • Cooler.jpg
    Cooler.jpg
    17.6 KB · Views: 377
Those coolers work great! We had one at work, our only problem was the bay doors kept opening up and all the cooler air would rush out...
 
Randyzzz said:
Those coolers work great! We had one at work, our only problem was the bay doors kept opening up and all the cooler air would rush out...
Click to expand...

My shop is 5000 sq ft with four 14' x 14' doors and even with two always open The cooler works amazing. It was 102 here last week. I had come to a point where I would work from about 7 pm till 4 am and sleep during the day. Now I can get back to normal.

Oh yea, the 241C tranfer case came in this morning and it sure looks like it will solve the front drive shaft clearance problem but now I need a JB conversions slip yoke eliminator kit for the rear drive shaft, Cha -ching again. Anyone know of a poor house with a garage.
 
Last edited:
1. 241C transfer case installed. The 241 Offsets a little more than a inch farther than the D300 and clocks it down just a little more. Its all good. Tail shaft will be converted to a JB conversions Shorty which is almost 9" shorter and I will still use a CV drive shaft..
2. Mock up drive shaft with plenty clearance now in the front.
More $$$ cha-ching.
 

Attachments

  • 0021715.jpg
    0021715.jpg
    214.8 KB · Views: 369
  • 1715.jpg
    1715.jpg
    187.3 KB · Views: 371
Last edited:
Now I'm looking for a transmission shifter and a transfer case shifter that will compliment each other. Should I go with a transmission mount or a floor mount for the transmission shifter. I'm leaning to the tranny mount.
 

Attachments

  • 0021715.jpg
    0021715.jpg
    214.8 KB · Views: 336
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top