Another Scrambler Purchase/Road Trip - UPDATE- BODY ON FRAME AGAIN
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
A few pictures from the Hot Springs trip.
Heading north from my house, before the rain:
About to hit rain south of Jackson, MS:
Typical cruising speed, speedometer is correct, I don't need no stinking LS LOL!!!!! About to turn over to 55,000 miles:
Crossing the MS River into LA at Vicksburg:
Finally blue skies, north Louisiana:
Coolest little town in Louisiana, love the abandoned school on the side of the highway!!!
Heading north from my house, before the rain:
About to hit rain south of Jackson, MS:
Typical cruising speed, speedometer is correct, I don't need no stinking LS LOL!!!!! About to turn over to 55,000 miles:
Crossing the MS River into LA at Vicksburg:
Finally blue skies, north Louisiana:
Coolest little town in Louisiana, love the abandoned school on the side of the highway!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Crossing into Arkansas:
Random Arkansas pictures:
Finally made it:
Sorry, no real wheeling pictures. I was by myself so it is too hard to wheel and take pictures. Had a blast, ran a bunch of level 3 trails, two leve 4's, Scrambler did great!!
Just two poser pics at "Prothane Point":
Random Arkansas pictures:
Finally made it:
Sorry, no real wheeling pictures. I was by myself so it is too hard to wheel and take pictures. Had a blast, ran a bunch of level 3 trails, two leve 4's, Scrambler did great!!
Just two poser pics at "Prothane Point":
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Just two heading home pictures.
Crossing into MS near Greenville:
Random picture of the Delta:
Back home, all cleaned up, ready for another adventure:
Power steering pump is leaking slightly at the pump to reservoir interface. The can is kind of tweaked, too many pump change outs over the years?? NAPA could not get a pump/reservoir combo for an '83, but can for an '85. So, I have an '85 model coming, they are the same.
That's it for now!!
Crossing into MS near Greenville:
Random picture of the Delta:
Back home, all cleaned up, ready for another adventure:
Power steering pump is leaking slightly at the pump to reservoir interface. The can is kind of tweaked, too many pump change outs over the years?? NAPA could not get a pump/reservoir combo for an '83, but can for an '85. So, I have an '85 model coming, they are the same.
That's it for now!!
- City
- Coopersburg
- State
- PA
Jeep looks great. I remember when I was young. I used to have a 76 CJ5 with a 360 and 35s. I used to drive it to meet up for off reading, wheel all day, drive back home. Was a super long day. Not many people do that anymore with an older rig
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I have been daily driving this one for the last few weeks, no real problems, running great.
My driver side door latch partially broke last summer: I could no longer open the door with the inside handle, but the outside handle would release the latch no problem.
Not a big deal when it is hot outside and the window is rolled down, PIA when it is cold out and the window stays up!!!
I bought a used latch off eBay a few months ago, finally got around to installing it:
About a half hour project, but a huge improvement/luxury upgrade LOL
I'm going to keep the old latch, maybe it can be repaired? Does not appear to be easily serviceable, who knows???
My driver side door latch partially broke last summer: I could no longer open the door with the inside handle, but the outside handle would release the latch no problem.
Not a big deal when it is hot outside and the window is rolled down, PIA when it is cold out and the window stays up!!!
I bought a used latch off eBay a few months ago, finally got around to installing it:
About a half hour project, but a huge improvement/luxury upgrade LOL
I'm going to keep the old latch, maybe it can be repaired? Does not appear to be easily serviceable, who knows???
- City
- God's Country
- State
- AR
What was broken on the old latch? Got a pic to show us?
I'd really like to tear my hard doors all the way down and clean/lube everything to make the windows easy to roll up/down and the latches and locks work like they used to, but man I hate working up inside these doors. My hands usually end up looking like I tried to freehand neuter a stray cat.
I'd really like to tear my hard doors all the way down and clean/lube everything to make the windows easy to roll up/down and the latches and locks work like they used to, but man I hate working up inside these doors. My hands usually end up looking like I tried to freehand neuter a stray cat.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Not sure what is broken/loose/sticking inside, I just know it would not unlatch using the inner door handle anymore. Sometimes, after opening the door with the exterior handle, the two latching "prongs" would not open back up all the way. So, when you would shut the door, the two "prongs" would slam against the post. When this happened, I could use the inner door latch to open up the two "prongs" completely
Not sure if a spring broke/wore out inside or what????????????
If you pull the door panel off, and remove the door latch cover, you can lube the door latch mechanism fairly easily. With the door panel off, easy to lube the window roll up mechanism.
You could also lower the glass, spray silicone lube in the window channel weather stripping, to make the glass slide up and down easy. I always do this with new weather stripping,, since it is too tight. It helps with older weather stripping, too
- City
- W-S
- State
- NC
94 pages and 1900 posts........that 8 is as much "ours" as it is "yours"!
Always good to read and a great follow. Rock on cowboy!
Always good to read and a great follow. Rock on cowboy!
- City
- God's Country
- State
- AR
My tan '7 the driver's door glass goes up fine, but when I try to roll it down the back of the glass hangs up. If I reach up and pull very lightly down on the back of the glass it goes down ok.
The right door on that Jeep has the problem you mention of the little jaws not always staying open, so the door slams hitting the pin instead of latching onto it. Only does it occasionally, and I just pull the door handle and manually open the jaws and then it closes fine on the pin.
But one of these days I'd like to get these things working better.
My green '7 I can one finger the windows up and down on both doors
The right door on that Jeep has the problem you mention of the little jaws not always staying open, so the door slams hitting the pin instead of latching onto it. Only does it occasionally, and I just pull the door handle and manually open the jaws and then it closes fine on the pin.
But one of these days I'd like to get these things working better.
My green '7 I can one finger the windows up and down on both doors
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
This was fun to find:
Alternator quit charging the other day. Battery good, alternator only a few months old. Swapped battery/alternator with known good units (pays to have all these CJ's laying around!!) The "excite" wire had a clean break, very fun looking for this LOL. Fixed that, still no charge. Further diagnosis found that the big red wire in the alternator plug broke free from its tab, inside the connector, so you could not even see the damage!!
One little crimp, new alternator plug, back on the road
Alternator quit charging the other day. Battery good, alternator only a few months old. Swapped battery/alternator with known good units (pays to have all these CJ's laying around!!) The "excite" wire had a clean break, very fun looking for this LOL. Fixed that, still no charge. Further diagnosis found that the big red wire in the alternator plug broke free from its tab, inside the connector, so you could not even see the damage!!
One little crimp, new alternator plug, back on the road
Last edited:
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
I just spent a couple hours searching for something exactly like that! Good times!This was fun to find:
View attachment 101888
View attachment 101889
Alternator quit charging the other day. Battery good, alternator only a few months old. Swapped battery/alternator with known good units (pays to have all these CJ's laying around!!) The "excite" wire had a clean break, very fun looking for this LOL. Fixed that, still no charge. Further diagnosis found that the big red wire in the alternator plug broke free from its tab, inside the connector, so you could not even see the damage!!
One little crimp, new alternator plug, back on the road
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I have been spending all my time working on "short" Jeeps, decided to knock out some "deferred maintenance" issues on "old reliable".
I have had the same O2 sensor installed for almost 60k miles. It was the original "Mopar" sensor that I first installed behind the 4.2, and it stayed in place when I installed the 4.0 engine. Starting last year, if the engine idled for longer then 3-4 minutes, the CEL would come on. It was having a code #21 about the 02 not reading rich/lean. If I turned the Jeep off and restarted, the code would go away. Well, the other day the code would not go away any longer, and the OBD1 reader also mentioned the 02 sensor was shorted on the high side, or something like that, so decided to swap out the sensor.
The 60k mile sensor, some deposits on it, not terrible:
I did not have a new sensor, BUT I had a sensor I pulled out of my green Scrambler after 1,000 miles of use. Not sure why I pulled it, or kept it, but I installed it. Well, the CEL came on while driving, AND I actually got "stumbling after hard acceleration issues" and other drivability issues!! I never thought a bad primary O2 would cause drivability issues, but I guess so!! Installed a new NTK sensor, no CEL and no issues. Ordered an extra NTK sensor to keep in the spares box, too. Now I know why I pulled this O2 sensor out of my green Scrambler !!!
Swapped in a new volt gauge, still a work in progress:
This gauge is a bit deeper than the original gauge, so the light bulb wiring fouls up so hard against the defroster duct that I can not install the bulb!!! I don't want to, but I will probably have to install a spacer ring on this gauge to space it out so the light bulb will install. Eliminating the defrost is not an option. If I space the volt gauge, will probably space out the oil pressure gauge, too, damn OCD!!!
And finally figured out why this secondary coolant gauge was not working:
The temperature gauge in the speedometer cluster works, BUT I added this gauge a few years ago just out of curiosity. It was supposed to be temporary, but I kind of got used to it. Anyway, it will intermittently work, and usually read way too low. Good ground, good power, so I looked at my sending unit wire. I cut both ends off, crimped on new ends, it has been working perfectly. I assume I had a bad connection at one of my crimp ends. Regardless, it is working, and I am happy!!!!!!!
This is a stock 4.0, with a 195 degree thermostat, stock fan clutch and stock 2 core radiator. It runs consistently between 200-210 degrees. Also, it was 97 degrees out, with humidity factored in, closer to 107 outside. I do not think this is too hot, considering my first 2005 TJ ran at 210 degrees for 165,000 miles, and my 2005 LJ has run at 210 degrees for 148,000 miles. With the OBD1 scan tool plugged in, the red Scrambler reads 205. This engine coolant sensor is located in the thermostat housing, as is the gauge sending unit. So, it runs 200-210. Happy with that!!
That's it for now
I have had the same O2 sensor installed for almost 60k miles. It was the original "Mopar" sensor that I first installed behind the 4.2, and it stayed in place when I installed the 4.0 engine. Starting last year, if the engine idled for longer then 3-4 minutes, the CEL would come on. It was having a code #21 about the 02 not reading rich/lean. If I turned the Jeep off and restarted, the code would go away. Well, the other day the code would not go away any longer, and the OBD1 reader also mentioned the 02 sensor was shorted on the high side, or something like that, so decided to swap out the sensor.
The 60k mile sensor, some deposits on it, not terrible:
I did not have a new sensor, BUT I had a sensor I pulled out of my green Scrambler after 1,000 miles of use. Not sure why I pulled it, or kept it, but I installed it. Well, the CEL came on while driving, AND I actually got "stumbling after hard acceleration issues" and other drivability issues!! I never thought a bad primary O2 would cause drivability issues, but I guess so!! Installed a new NTK sensor, no CEL and no issues. Ordered an extra NTK sensor to keep in the spares box, too. Now I know why I pulled this O2 sensor out of my green Scrambler !!!
Swapped in a new volt gauge, still a work in progress:
This gauge is a bit deeper than the original gauge, so the light bulb wiring fouls up so hard against the defroster duct that I can not install the bulb!!! I don't want to, but I will probably have to install a spacer ring on this gauge to space it out so the light bulb will install. Eliminating the defrost is not an option. If I space the volt gauge, will probably space out the oil pressure gauge, too, damn OCD!!!
And finally figured out why this secondary coolant gauge was not working:
The temperature gauge in the speedometer cluster works, BUT I added this gauge a few years ago just out of curiosity. It was supposed to be temporary, but I kind of got used to it. Anyway, it will intermittently work, and usually read way too low. Good ground, good power, so I looked at my sending unit wire. I cut both ends off, crimped on new ends, it has been working perfectly. I assume I had a bad connection at one of my crimp ends. Regardless, it is working, and I am happy!!!!!!!
This is a stock 4.0, with a 195 degree thermostat, stock fan clutch and stock 2 core radiator. It runs consistently between 200-210 degrees. Also, it was 97 degrees out, with humidity factored in, closer to 107 outside. I do not think this is too hot, considering my first 2005 TJ ran at 210 degrees for 165,000 miles, and my 2005 LJ has run at 210 degrees for 148,000 miles. With the OBD1 scan tool plugged in, the red Scrambler reads 205. This engine coolant sensor is located in the thermostat housing, as is the gauge sending unit. So, it runs 200-210. Happy with that!!
That's it for now
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Not exciting, more my for own notes, getting ready for my almost 3 week Colorado/Michigan adventure. Mainly maintenance items:
Engine oil and filter
AX15 fluid (too soon, old looked new still)
Dana 300 and AMC 20 (same as above)
Spark plugs
Old spark plugs looked good to me:
The stuff on the spark plug threads is copper anti seize. No real performance concerns, just felt like installing new ones, cheap and easy. And, with the cost of fuel, every little bit helps!!!
Only real issue: The Ox Locker differential covers have drain plugs, which is really handy for fluid changes. But, sometimes I drive on rock a little bit too big for my rig, and drag the undercarriage. It was fun getting this drain plug out the rear axle!!
Had a spare to install. The spare has a square head that a 1/4" ratchet/extension fits into (for my future reference LOL!!!). Bought another spare:
You can see where I have been grinding down the axle/differential cover. Future project - change the shift cable o-ring, minor leak that makes a mess back there.
I also hit everything with the grease gun:
Steering linkage
Clutch linkage
Front driveshaft
Rear driveshaft (have to remove to grease CV)
All the suspension bolts
Feeling pretty good about myself, pulled all four wheels off Saturday night for a hopefully quick Sunday morning final inspection:
And that's when the fun started!!!!!
Engine oil and filter
AX15 fluid (too soon, old looked new still)
Dana 300 and AMC 20 (same as above)
Spark plugs
Old spark plugs looked good to me:
The stuff on the spark plug threads is copper anti seize. No real performance concerns, just felt like installing new ones, cheap and easy. And, with the cost of fuel, every little bit helps!!!
Only real issue: The Ox Locker differential covers have drain plugs, which is really handy for fluid changes. But, sometimes I drive on rock a little bit too big for my rig, and drag the undercarriage. It was fun getting this drain plug out the rear axle!!
Had a spare to install. The spare has a square head that a 1/4" ratchet/extension fits into (for my future reference LOL!!!). Bought another spare:
You can see where I have been grinding down the axle/differential cover. Future project - change the shift cable o-ring, minor leak that makes a mess back there.
I also hit everything with the grease gun:
Steering linkage
Clutch linkage
Front driveshaft
Rear driveshaft (have to remove to grease CV)
All the suspension bolts
Feeling pretty good about myself, pulled all four wheels off Saturday night for a hopefully quick Sunday morning final inspection:
And that's when the fun started!!!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Before a long trip, I always pull all the wheels and give everything a once over. Check all suspension/steering/drivel line bolts, pretty much everything I can put a wrench on. One shackle hanger bolt was a hair loose, same with the steering box cross over brace. The sway bar frame mounted brackets each had one bolt a hair loose. No big deal.
I also pull all four brake calipers off and check wheel bearing play/smoothness. Periodically I will pull the hubs/drive slugs out and take a peak. I had no issues or concerns, but worth checking everything out. It has been 12 years/60k miles since I messed with any of these bearings.......
Driver front spun smooth, no play, but did not sound right:
Looks like a litte water contamination, maybe. Not bad, no grit.
The bearings are rough:
Passenger front hub felt/sounded fine, but went ahead and pulled it.
The inner bearing stayed on the spindle. I destroyed the outer cage and rollers, knocked the race off. Spindle is dark under both bearings, must have got hot? Both spindles have minor wear at the seal surface, so I ordered two new spindles.
Pulled the spindles and axle shafts. Spindle bearings are OK, maybe a little water, will install new bearings in the new spindles.
The passenger side axle shaft u-joint is a little stiff, so will replace both of them as well.
On the driver side, the inner axle dust shield has been loose. It makes noise and drives me bonkers!!!
I am running the long discontinued Warn chromo front shafts that take Dana 44 size u-joints. The inner shafts do not match OEM specs where these shields ride. I wrapped the shafts with tape to build up the OD when I installed these axles 12 years ago. Held up on passenger side, failed on driver side. Will need to figure something out.
So, for the front:
Rotors and pads (one rotor has a groove)
Wheel bearings
Spindles
Spindle bearings
Axle shaft u-joints
On to the rear........
I also pull all four brake calipers off and check wheel bearing play/smoothness. Periodically I will pull the hubs/drive slugs out and take a peak. I had no issues or concerns, but worth checking everything out. It has been 12 years/60k miles since I messed with any of these bearings.......
Driver front spun smooth, no play, but did not sound right:
Looks like a litte water contamination, maybe. Not bad, no grit.
The bearings are rough:
Passenger front hub felt/sounded fine, but went ahead and pulled it.
The inner bearing stayed on the spindle. I destroyed the outer cage and rollers, knocked the race off. Spindle is dark under both bearings, must have got hot? Both spindles have minor wear at the seal surface, so I ordered two new spindles.
Pulled the spindles and axle shafts. Spindle bearings are OK, maybe a little water, will install new bearings in the new spindles.
The passenger side axle shaft u-joint is a little stiff, so will replace both of them as well.
On the driver side, the inner axle dust shield has been loose. It makes noise and drives me bonkers!!!
I am running the long discontinued Warn chromo front shafts that take Dana 44 size u-joints. The inner shafts do not match OEM specs where these shields ride. I wrapped the shafts with tape to build up the OD when I installed these axles 12 years ago. Held up on passenger side, failed on driver side. Will need to figure something out.
So, for the front:
Rotors and pads (one rotor has a groove)
Wheel bearings
Spindles
Spindle bearings
Axle shaft u-joints
On to the rear........
Last edited:
FLCJ8
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Palm Bay
- State
- FL
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I am running the Warn Full Float axle kit on the rear. This make all four corners very similar- bolt on spindles, removable wheel hubs, same wheel bearings on all four corners (only hub seal is different front to back).
Pulled the passenger side drive flange, a little contamination, not bad:
The rear uses the same "tits and holes" Ford style spindle nuts as the front. Pull axle shafts, remove the spindle nuts, slide off the wheel hubs. I run a disc brake conversion on the rear, so the calipers/rotors/caliper bracket have to come off, too:
Both rear wheel hubs sound/feel fine. But, I am going to install new bearings and seals for piece of mind. Easier to spend a little money and time now, in my garage, versus the side of the road some where.
The Warn instructions state to torque the outer spindle nuts to 120 foot pounds. That is a lot, and it easy for the four prong spindle nut socket to slip off the spindle nuts. So, I place a bottle jack under the spindle nut socket to keep it level, use a 3/4" ratchet and pipe for control, and push the socket tight to the nuts. Works great:
So, the rear will get all new wheel bearings, hub seals, and spindle seals. I did NOT install the inner axle oil seals when I installed these shafts/bearings. But, the spindle seals have been keeping the gear oil out of the bearings. On my tan Scrambler that I sold, even with the spindle seals installed, gear oil would end up in the wheel bearings. Not a problem really, except lock in hubs are NOT oil proof and will sling gear oil out. Drive slugs prevent this
A few years back I got this Jeep stuck, abd pulled the rear end straight side ways. It did not damage, except I had to readjust the bearings. I may or may not have damaged the bearings, but cheap insurance to swap in new bearings, especially considering the fact that Warn spindles/wheel hubs do not grow on trees!!!
Everything tore down and half ass inspected, parts ordered:
Quite a few hours of cleaning before I can start reassembly, that's it for now!!
Pulled the passenger side drive flange, a little contamination, not bad:
The rear uses the same "tits and holes" Ford style spindle nuts as the front. Pull axle shafts, remove the spindle nuts, slide off the wheel hubs. I run a disc brake conversion on the rear, so the calipers/rotors/caliper bracket have to come off, too:
Both rear wheel hubs sound/feel fine. But, I am going to install new bearings and seals for piece of mind. Easier to spend a little money and time now, in my garage, versus the side of the road some where.
The Warn instructions state to torque the outer spindle nuts to 120 foot pounds. That is a lot, and it easy for the four prong spindle nut socket to slip off the spindle nuts. So, I place a bottle jack under the spindle nut socket to keep it level, use a 3/4" ratchet and pipe for control, and push the socket tight to the nuts. Works great:
So, the rear will get all new wheel bearings, hub seals, and spindle seals. I did NOT install the inner axle oil seals when I installed these shafts/bearings. But, the spindle seals have been keeping the gear oil out of the bearings. On my tan Scrambler that I sold, even with the spindle seals installed, gear oil would end up in the wheel bearings. Not a problem really, except lock in hubs are NOT oil proof and will sling gear oil out. Drive slugs prevent this
A few years back I got this Jeep stuck, abd pulled the rear end straight side ways. It did not damage, except I had to readjust the bearings. I may or may not have damaged the bearings, but cheap insurance to swap in new bearings, especially considering the fact that Warn spindles/wheel hubs do not grow on trees!!!
Everything tore down and half ass inspected, parts ordered:
Quite a few hours of cleaning before I can start reassembly, that's it for now!!