Mods might want to move this thread to the "Builds Section" next month, once I get started
I bought this Scrambler to make into my new trail rig. I like driving my Green Scrambler, but I dont have the heart to modify it to make it offroad worthy, it is too original. So, I am selling my current trail rig (CJ-7) and I am going to build this Scrambler into my new trail rig.
My definition of" trail rig" might be different then most. This isnt going to have a V8 (have one now, hate the gas mileage), no one ton axles, crazy link suspensions, or any real body mods to it. I am going to be reusing all of the strock powertrain, but specific upgrdes will be made. My goal is to have a Scrambler that I can comfortably and safely drive on the interstate and the trails. My current CJ-7 meets my goals, so this Jeep will be modified in much the same ways Here is my plan:
Engine - I will be keeping the current 258 I6. This motor held over 55 psi of oil pressure all the way back from Indiana, pulls very strong, and doesnt make any funny noise. I might run a compression test on it, but I have no plans to rebuild it at this time. It runs that good. Only mod will be the Mopar Multi Point Fuel Injection kit, which I have sitting in a box in my garage right now. Will also put a metal valve cover on it and change a few other misc seals.
Transmission - I am going to reuse the current T-176 that it currently has. It shifts fine, no bad vibes or any issues except it has some leaks. I will rebuild it with new bearings and seals.
T - Case - I plan on rebuilding it with new seals and bearings, only issue is some leaks. I will probably put a clocking ring on it to increase ground clearance, and maybe in the future put some lower gears in it if I feel it is needed.
Rear End - Going to keep the AMC 20. Complete rebuild with:
New ring and pinion (probably 3.73 or 4.10) Currently has 3.31
Selectable Locker (probably OX, but I might put a Aussie full time locker in it)
Warn Full Float axle kit (sitting in the garage)
Will probably stich weld the tubes to the center section while I have it out to rebuild
Front End - Going to keep the Dana 30. Complete rebuild with:
New ring and pinion (probably 3.73 or 4.10) Currently has 3.31
Will probably put a Aussie in the stock front carrier for now
Warn Chrome Moly front shafts that take the Dana 44 size U joints (sitting in the garage)
Really need the Warn frint hub conversion. If I cant buy another setup like this I will steal the kit off of my current CJ-7. (It replaceds the bolt on hubs with internal spline hubs like a full size truck)
Suspension - Rubicon Express 4.5" extreme duty system
Tires and wheels - looking at 34 x 10.50 LTBS on the stock rims for now
Other misc mechanical upgrades: new clutch, maybe swap to power brakes, maybe disc brakes on the back.
After I stripped off the bed liner I did some soul searching. This scrambler tub doesnt have too much rust, but I also know if I dont fix it now, and fix it right, it will only deteriate. I know its going to be my trail rig, BUT my plans for the body and frame are:
Frame - excellent shape, will media blast and repaint inside and out. It doesnt have any cracks or soft spots, just surface rust.
Body - Media blast the entire body and repaint the entire thing, everywhere. Replacement panels ordered are as follows (all from classic enterprises):
rear bed floor piece - current one is still solid but it is dented and has lots of pinn holes
rear bed, front pasenger side corner piece - currently has a patch. The other 3 are solid, as are the wheel wells
front floor pans where your feet go - It currently has solid patch pieces in place but I want it to look original so I ordered new floor pans.
Other body pieces to order: windshield frame (current one is rusted along bottom edge), tailgate (current one is dented pretty bad, but no rust) and need another bulkhead (current one is rusted out along the bottom edge, should be buying one soon)
I plan on repainting the entire Scrambler Sebring Red and putting back on some repro decals. I will also paint my rocker guards to mach the paint so that i can put the factory decals on them and the scheme will match. Will paint 1/2 hard top Nutmeg and replace seats and interior with Nutmeg pieces.
This should keep me busy for awhile
Other plans are mounting my Warn 9500 on the front, building a rear bumper tire carrier to mount on the current rear bumper, Rock Hard In Cab Cage, etc etc
Sounds like alot of work for a "trail jeep", but I want a solid, reliable, good looking Scrambler I can be proud of
Should have a bulkhead heading my way soon
Should also have a Nutmeg NOS 1/2 soft top heading my way, too.
Still need to order the following:
New fuel and brake hard lines
New gas tank
Heavy duty shackle hangers
1 piece steering box mount
(want all the above parts to put on the frame before I put body back on)
Decided to redo the axles now too, need to get the following:
Ring and Pinions + Bearings for front and rear (will buy from the local guy who sets up Ring and Pinions and builds driveshafts)
Tranny and t-case rebuild kits
Warn 37132 front hub conversion (somebody please help me on this )
Plus a zillion other thing after I at least get the body back on the frame ( ss bolt kit, seats, dash pad, misc lights and lenses etc etc etc )
I haven't started any work yet, still filling the garage with parts
I am probably going to keep this bumper but add a tire carrier to it. I will also try to make some pieces that will tie the "side wings"(parts that are on each side that go back towrd the back tires) into the frame
This is my favorite pic, the one thing I was really worried about
That is a pic of the body mount bolts. If you have ever worked on an old, kinda rusty CJ, you know what I am talking about If these things break off inside the captured nuts, you are in for a good time I was very fortunate, 9 out of 10 came out no problems. The one that broke is no big deal since the captured nut for this one is accessible through an open ended floor reinforcement channel
The Jeep is still drivable right now, but the only things left to take off to pull the tub (which is loose right now, you can pick it up off the frame) are the following:
Dash board and wire harness
Fuel Tank Evap Canister that is hid up under the rear drivers side body tub corner
Very Lucky on the body mounts Yep, those front two body mounts look alot different then rest
Deconstruction is fast and easy, its the putting it back together that takes awhile I have been using ziplock bags to sort and lable all the misc bolts and small parts, hopefully that will help in the reconstruction
Did a little more last night, but forgot the camera, so I will take some pics tonight
Anyway, pulled the radiator / grill, disconnected power steering, removed battery tray, took off master cylinder, and removed the front wire harness (disconnected the front main harness from fuse panel at the firewall).