Another Scrambler Purchase/Road Trip - UPDATE- BODY ON FRAME AGAIN

[spankrjs]

Distributor at TDC:

Using a small metal straight edge to show that the leading edge of the rotor blade is aligned to the front edge of the cast in place "block" on the distributor housing:

So, the "Redneck Ray" allen wrench pin works!!!!!!!!! Distributor installed at #1 TDC, from the outside. From the previous picture, you can tell that the rotor is indeed pointing at the #1 on the distributor cap:

I had to "swap" the coil mounting to the other side of the bracket when I went to bolt it to the block. Worked fine on the 4.2 block the other way. No big deal:

Was making great progress until I snapped off one of the oil pan bolts when I went to remove it!!!!

I am using the Hesco harmonic balancer crank position sensor. It has a bracket that bolts to the bottom of the block, using three of the oil pan mounting bolts. So, after drilling out the broke bolt, retapping the hole, and getting a face/hair full of metal shards, back on track.

Crank position sensor installed. I spaced it off the damper .035". Instructions call for .02" - .06":

Bolted up the 4.2 PS pump brackets next. I have found that some people say that the 4.2 PS pump bracket must be cut off to work with the 4.0 intake/exhaust manifolds. I did not have to cut mine, it fit fine, like it was made for it:

Everything on the driver side/PS pump side bolted right on, no problems what so ever. On the passengerside/alternator side, slight issue. The 4.0 timing chain cover is slightly different then the 4.2's????

Hard to tell from that photo, but the two bosses I need to use on the timing chain cover for my alternator bracket sit back approximately 5/16" too far. But, I had two left over thick steel exhaust manifold washers that were the perfect diameter/thickness. With these two spacers installed, everything lined up/bolted on like factory. My thumb and middle finger are holding the spacers in position:

So, just having to use two small spacers, all of my 4.2 front accessories/brackets bolted right on to the 4.0 block like they were made for it.

 

[spankrjs]

PS belt alignment looks good:

Alternator belt alignment looks good:

Very happy that all the front accessories bolted up, looks like everything should work fine.

I reinstalled my old 4.2 temperature gauge sending unit into the 4.0 head, threads are the same:

Quick detour. I saw another thread recently asking about using gaskets or something similar between the fenders/body tub/grill/etc. I simply bolted my sheet metal together, no gaskets. I think any type of gasket might do more harm then good, i.e. trap moisture. Since the hood/fenders/grill shouldn't really be moving independently from each other, limited chance for excess "rubbage". Anyway, I put over 30,000 miles on this Scrambler since I rebuilt it, including several cross country trips plus numerous off highway adventures. No rust, no rubbed off paint found:

Quick over view shot. Driver side almost complete. Only thing left to install is the O2 sensor. Waiting on exhaust piece to finish this side up.

Passenger side complete except for hooking up the battery.

One small issue on the passenger side - I had been using an old mechanical oil pressure gauge in my 4.2 set up. On the 4.0 engine, I am using a new electric gauge. I have been happy with the VDO electric oil pressure gauge in my tan Scrambler, so doing the same thing here. I don't like the risk of the mechanical gauges line rupturing and spraying oil everywhere. Anyway, just be aware that the 4.2's factory oil pressure sending unit is mounted in the block closer to the fire wall then the 4.0's block. Just a couple of inches, my 4.0 sending unit is mounted directly above the oil filter mounting boss, but my old mechanical gauges sending unit tube was too short to reach.

So, roughly 8 hours to dismantle and pull out the old engine. Probably about 24 hours reinstalling/hooking up the new engine. Your result may vary. Simple things like this winch power cable anti chaffe defense take a little time:

Even though my old engine was only in the vehicle for around 30,000 miles since I rebuilt the Scrambler, and I was anal about keeping it clean, I still went and re-cleaned all the re-used parts. Plus, I try to take my time routing wires/hoses/tubes/etc. to look neat and be out of harms way. So, yeah, my OCD cost me some time.

Anyway, only the exhaust left to hook up.

That's it for now.

 

[FLCJ8]

Looking good.

What brand exhaust header did you use, and what year/model Jeep is it for?

 

[MrBeep]

Another AWESOME Post my friend. Thank you for what you do here.

 

[Randyzzz]

Fantastic!

 

[spankrjs]

Looking good.

What brand exhaust header did you use, and what year/model Jeep is it for?

Another AWESOME Post my friend. Thank you for what you do here.

Fantastic!

Appreciate it guys

I will have to get the manufacturer/model number for the header. It was nothing fancy, I bought it from Hesco when I picked up the engine.

 

[red mistress]

Only in MS do people do backwards swaps !

You make Redneck Ray a hero

Lots of knowledge & good work as always.

 

[spankrjs]

Only in MS do people do backwards swaps !

You make Redneck Ray a hero

Lots of knowledge & good work as always.

LOL, appreciate it

I have to keep true to my MS roots, if I can figure out a way to fit some points in that distributor.......

 

[Belizeit]

Great reading thread. Really enjoyable read. I've only had my grill/fenders off my body twice. Considering there was a little rust between body and fenders the first time, I cleaned it up and spread a very thin coat of silicon on there and that seemed to work. I did the same thing under the factory roll bar where it mounts to the body. You have a nice scrambler collection [emoji106]🏼


Sent from my iPad

 

[FLCJ8]

Appreciate it guys

I will have to get the manufacturer/model number for the header. It was nothing fancy, I bought it from Hesco when I picked up the engine.

Thanks, no hurry.
Figure it's for a Wrangler 4.0 but confirmation would be good.

 

[Bad Karma]

The gasket not blocking the injectors at all?

 

[spankrjs]

Thanks, no hurry.
Figure it's for a Wrangler 4.0 but confirmation would be good.

ATP Challenge Header, says its for a 1991-99 4.0L

 

[spankrjs]

The gasket not blocking the injectors at all?

No blockage, just a bad picture

 

[FLCJ8]

ATP Challenge Header, says its for a 1991-99 4.0L

Great info to have.
Thanks.

Looking good, and your posts are informative as usual.

 

[spankrjs]

Great info to have.
Thanks.

Looking good, and your posts are informative as usual.

Appreciate it

 

[spankrjs]

Forgot to update this thread, I was able to get the red Scrambler moving under its own power again this past Saturday.

Last major hurdle was exhaust. My old 4.2 down pipe would not connect to the new 4.0 header. So, being inpatient and not wanting to either:

A) Get a tow to the exhaust shop
B) Drive it with an open header and no O2 sensor to the exhaust shop

I "Redneck Ray'd" it. I purchased a down pipe for a 4.0 Cherokee (I will have to find out which year it was from), a cheap Turbo muffler, and some bailing wire, woila, exhaust with an O2 sensor bung

Mocked up on the floor:

And installed, with plenty of ground clearance

And finally, outside and running:

And yes, with no tail pipe behind the muffler, pretty loud/annoying!!!!!!

I had a new down pipe made, and replaced my old muffler with a broken internal baffle with a new Dynomax muffler for not much more then what my temporary stuff cost. Should have just got a tow



Driving down the interstate at 75mph:

Some driving impressions with the new motor:

1) Wish I would have had time to fix it before the South Dakota trip last year
2) Wish I would have fixed it sooner, really missed driving this one

OK, important 4.0 vs 4.2 notes, just my opinions, and I have only drove it maybe 100 miles:

1) Slightly less off idle torque then the old 4.2, barely noticeable, but there is a slight difference. Not enough to cause driving issues, but I can feel it, barely.

2) The 4.0 accelerates much quicker from idle up through the RPM range

3) The 4.0 pulls much harder from roughly 1,800 RPM and higher vs the old 4.2, so you can feel an increase in power at higher RPM

4) Less gas pedal to maintain highway speeds


Not really a fair comparison, this is a brand new engine, compared to my old 4.2 with unknown history. New engine holds 50psi oil pressure at a hot idle, old 4.2 had around 5psi oil pressure at hot idle. Both engines are/were running the same exact Mopar MPI kit from Hesco.

All in all, so far so good

 

[MrBeep]

You will notice the difference on "Test Hill" at Sand Blast.

 

[spankrjs]

You will notice the difference on "Test Hill" at Sand Blast.

About to start wrenching on my green '83, hope to take it up there this year

 

[spankrjs]

No miracles if it's knocking already with low oil pressure. That ship has sailed already.



Sent from my SM-G920V

Just a quick follow up to what was causing the "tick/knock" and low oil pressure in the 4.2 I had been running in this Scrambler.

mysunnshine was correct, no miracle in a bottle cure for this one


1) Bad piston in #6, piston skirt was cracked
2) valve guides bad
3) excessive clearance between crank and main bearings

The old engine is currently being rebuilt by Hesco, and I will be installing it into my Green Scrambler. I will put more engine specific information (what all was done to the old engine) in the Green Scrambler thread, since that will be this engines new home.


Plan on driving/wheeling my Red Scrambler up in Choccolocco Mountain, near Jacksonville, AL, this weekend. First longish trip for the new engine

It's not too far of a trip, only about 5.5 hours/400 miles. Will be a good "get back in the saddle" trip for me and the Scrambler.

I will report back my impressions on the 4.0 engine when I get back, both on and off highway performance

 

[spankrjs]

The red Scrambler, with the new 4.0 engine, made it to, wheeled, and back from Choccolocco Mountain this past weekend

The new engine, and everything else, seemed to work fine. The only problem: The two bolts that hold the exhaust pipe to the header worked a hair loose. Other then that, no problems. The engine held 60 psi oil pressure the entire time on the highway, running 75mph at around 2,500 RPM. I did not keep track of MPG, seemed to be a bit better then the old engine. It might be way better, but it was very windy this trip, so hard to know. I will keep better MPG records on the next trip. I changed the oil when I got to the park.

Few quick notes on the 4.0 vs. 4.2 driving impressions, well, my anyway:

1) Off Road - The 4.0 has slightly less torque off idle vs the 4.2. This is true, but I never noticed it. The engine always had plenty off idle power, I never felt like I missed the old engine.

2) Regular highway driving, seemed to take a little less gas pedal to maintain speed. Seemed to accelerate a bit faster at all speeds.

3) On "slight/medium" grades, I could keep it in 5th gear, no problems.

4) On steeper grades, a downshift to fourth would maintain speed. This is where this engine/head shines compared to the old 4.2. Drop it in 4th, plenty of power above 2,500 RPM. I even let it pull to around 3,300 RPM on one longer grade, and it was still picking up speed

All in all, I am happy with the new engine. Wish I would have swapped in a new engine sooner