New Scrambler owner! YeeHaa!

AJ2393

Scrambled in the Head
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
North Dighton
State
MA
I did manage to hit the transmission tunnel cover with the cheapo Harbor Freight sand blaster. Man, let me tell you, that thing is actually somewhat impressive when it’s pushed by a decent compressor (in my case a Quincy 60 gal). Stripped the rust and paint off in minutes!
Just curious if our sandblast setup was able to get into deeper, pitted rust areas. I think that cover you did may have been only surface type rust. I've been thinking of getting a sandblast setup. I'm tired of the time it takes for wire wheels/sandpaper, etc. Plus those don't do a great job to begin with and take much longer.
 

Pman

Busted Knuckles
Lifetime Member
City
Mount Pleasant
State
SC
That's awesome. I really need one of those before I get into the body repair I need to do.
Thanks BW! I'd go with the cheapo plastic hopper model that has the carrying handle $31.99 before using a coupon). That's the one I'm using. My 83 year old tinkering dad bought the more expensive metal one with the holding tank and had mediocre results.
 

Pman

Busted Knuckles
Lifetime Member
City
Mount Pleasant
State
SC
Just curious if our sandblast setup was able to get into deeper, pitted rust areas. I think that cover you did may have been only surface type rust. I've been thinking of getting a sandblast setup. I'm tired of the time it takes for wire wheels/sandpaper, etc. Plus those don't do a great job to begin with and take much longer.
AJ- Good question! Yes, this actually had a few spots where the rust was in there good, and it was able to get deep. Hold on; let me circle the areas in one of the photos. I'm at the office, otherwise I'd take a closeup. I think the key is having a compressor that can keep a good head of pressure at the gun!
 

Pman

Busted Knuckles
Lifetime Member
City
Mount Pleasant
State
SC
C5EF7C31-6BF5-46D5-A3B5-BA84F135F4CA.jpeg
This is an example of where the rust had gotten into the metal. I thought it penetrated nicely for a 32.00 setup. I used the sandblaster in sections of the rocker panels (at least the parts that I didn’t cut out) on my smaller 30gal compressor a year ago and I was actually impressed at the rust it blew out.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
I have used the hopper sand blaster from HF.

It works well if you 1. Have lots of air flow, 2. Have DRY air, 3. Jiggle the hopper every now and again.

I also have a Barrel Blaster. It works on the same siphon principle, but works much better.

Both require lots of air, and the air must be dry. Dry air is VERY important.

Have I mentioned how important it is that the air is dry?
 

Pman

Busted Knuckles
Lifetime Member
City
Mount Pleasant
State
SC
Good points, Ag! I have all 3 which probably explains why it's working for me. I definitely had to shake the hopper a couple of times.

I just looked at the barrel blaster online which looks to be a stationary "contained" sandblaster. I also see the "Blast Master" which appears to be something good to hit the frame, larger body parts, etc. Nice stuff. If I ever get heavier into the sandblasting I'll have to consider this. I also like that it's American made.
 

Pman

Busted Knuckles
Lifetime Member
City
Mount Pleasant
State
SC
So last weekend we (me and my wife along with a contingent of other friends) decided to make our annual pilgrimage in our boats from Charleston SC to Beaufort SC. Always a fun trip and we generally turn that poor town known for The Big Chill and Forrest Gump upside down. This year was no exception other than we had the new freedom of NO MASKS. Well, a couple of days later here I am lying on the couch, not doing anything on the Scrambler because I have MAN FLU (you know; common cold). I’m a wimp but I can’t stand feeling run down so I’d rather look at pictures of everyone’s Jeeps all over the Interwebz. That’s ok; I’m hoping this pandemic stays gone-I’ll take a cold every now and then over social distancing all day long.

Anyway, before last weekend’s trip I squeezed in what WalkerHound calls “minutiae projects”. Like him, I sanded/painted the accel pedal, then decided to finally break out the powder coating machine and try it out on the bolts that hold the seats to my new, glorious (to me) Raptorlined floor. I sandblasted the bolts, punched them all through a piece of cardboard that I wrapped in tinfoil (gotta have that electrical charge for the powder to stick to), grabbed my cheap sawhorses, placed a copper pipe across them and hung the whole mess from that pipe with two metal hooks. Well, I’m not an old salt at powder coating but I was pleased as I dusted the parts with the black powder while sipping on my gin n tonic and it seemed to be “sticking”. When I finished, it was a bit dark outside ( that powder goes everywhere so I had no desire to do it in my already crowded garage) and I didn’t realize that one of my “S hooks” was hanging on that copper pipe for dear life. Suddenly, it all fell to the ground on the driveway. Rather than cry or sling a wrench into the neighbors yard, I took a few gulps of the gin and transferred my now imperfect powdercoated bolts into the worlds smallest “oven”...my old toaster oven. :-). Shockingly, they turned out decent. Not perfect, but good enough to be hidden under seats!
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Sandblasted (left) crusty original (right)721EA100-8186-4F76-A7A1-B1F68D607C83.jpeg
Note the dangling s hook in this shot. Nothing like showing the embarrassing stuff on the forum.
 
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Pman

Busted Knuckles
Lifetime Member
City
Mount Pleasant
State
SC
Anyway, I got to thinking about powder coating bolts. Yes, it’s tough paint, but it’s apt to chip when you put the sockets to it. Which had me thinking “why didn’t I just strip them and give them the black oxide OEM finish? Out of boredom, I was staring at the transmission tunnel plate screws and decided to do this. I really need to get a life, but pressed on.

I hit these screws with a wire wheel, dipped them in a 9:1 solution of distilled water/ Black Oxide, left them in that brine for about 3-4 minutes, transferred them to a cup of tap water to rinse, blew them completed dry, then sprayed them with WD-40 to complete the process. Turned out good and in hindsight should have done the same to the seat
bolts.



4DC35E34-EB0F-4310-8D46-288D36C36D4E.jpeg
Before
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After...


A quick note on the screws. If you have any that have a “zinc” plating on them, that needs to be removed with a solution of Citric acid, or the black oxide won’t take. These screws were rusty and a couple of them had zinc on them.
 
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