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Randyzzz Scrambler Restification Thread!

Looks like those were just for locating/mounting them, in the last pic of the installed hoops, those bits look welded to the frame to me. I'll guess he drilled and threaded the holes for those, threaded them in and then used that to weld the hoop on to get the angles correct.
 
As bad arse as the tall towers and shocks look, were they really needed for a Jeep the has a sprung under suspension? Or were you going with the tall hoop for the prerunner look? Which I love that look BTW.
 
The stubs and the tubes are all 1 1/4 X .120 wall tubing. I would have used 1 1/2 if I had a die to bend it...but I think it looks good and is heck for strong the way it is.

The threaded portion on the rearward stubs was for locating on the existing lower holes behind the motor mount holes. I used 1/2 carriage bolts for the caps, so on those two I just used longer bolts and threaded nuts up them to keep them centered. The front ones were typical "measure, clamp, weld". The rears are welded too.

Two reasons for the tall shock towers...to fit the longer shocks, and I like the way they look. They aren't really necessary for my current suspension, but they were needed to fit the shocks. I'll explain...

The first set of shock hoops were in the stockish location, and the shocks were perfect compressed, but wouldn't allow full droop. They were 9" travel. The RE4.5 springs have a ton of flex for spring under. The next size up, which would have been the correct size, had 11" travel, and would have required moving the towers up 4". But they weren't available (in Edelbrock). I found a set of 13" travel ones at Summit, so that's what I went with. They required the towers to be where you see them, to allow full compression (with 4 1/2" bump stops to protect my steering linkage). So now I have plenty of droop, and room to "grow" so to speak. I may even reinstall the 1 1/2" longer shackles, as the front springs have settled some, and the longer shackle will allow more spring travel.

Did I mention I like the way they look?:D
 
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Hell, liking the way they look is good enough for me. Gives it a don't mess with me look.
 
Kane said:
Hell, liking the way they look is good enough for me. Gives it a don't mess with me look.
Click to expand...

I like that thinking.

I may end up adding one more brace from the frame to the long leg of the hoop, just to make sure it's not going anywhere. Probably overkill, but I gotta keep with the overall theme...:D
 
Looks like you decided to go with vintage air, that was my choice also. Enerything fit great except I had a clearance problem with one of the condenser fittings and a headlight. I had to install spacer to move the headlights forward and also had to snip away some of the metal on the backside of the headlight. A simple job for such a master builder like you Randy. I also hope you bought Vintage Airs largest unit, I bought the smaller one and it just keeps up with my half cab
 
I wish I had gone with vintage air...I went with Hot Rod Air and now they're out of business. So much for the lifetime warranty. I went with the mid sized unit...realized the larger one would have fit aftet installing this one. Crossing my fingers...
 
Man, it's been a frustrating morning. After getting the hoops painted, I went to install the matching pair of front Edelbrock shocks. Houston, we have a problem.:banghead: The one shock compressed like all the others I have, the second one was a bear to compress. I had to put all my weight on it to strap it so it would fit in the mounts. I called Edelbrock technical, they couldn't tell me if the one shock was too soft or if the other was too hard. They do have a break-in period, but not being able to drive it, that didn't help. I'd hate to find out it was indeed defective and there were no replacements available...:shrug: So...called Summit, they're having another direct shipped to replace the defective shock. Time to wait some more. :angry:

I did find out some interesting things from Edelbrock technical... since these shocks are no longer in production, they have NO warranty, even though the paperwork shows a lifetime warranty. I asked about the ones I purchased from Edelbrock direct that came with warranty paperwork, again, NO warranty. Too bad, so sad. :angry: He did indicate they were producing private label for PolyPerformance, and that they had rebuild kits and could rebuild them. Poly's website doesn't show any private label stuff, but there is a rebuild kit available.

See my above post re: Hot Rod Air....my track record for warranty stuff SUCKS!

I'm thinking if these go belly up down the road I'll go with some Bilstein shocks...I'd actually do that now except for the $$ issue...
 
Yikes, sorry to hear that man, you're starting to sound like me and Bestop :D
 
Just a few pics to show the paint, clearance, ect. The cool reservoir holders will be replaced with some poly ones later. The Hammerite paint matcher excellent- especially considering I brushed this on!

Didn't get much more done today. Went and bought paint for the firewall, and then got a phone call from my daughter...my 19mo old grandson had to have emergency surgery to have his appendix removed. Poor little guy...felt so bad for him. He came through surgery with flying colors, though. One less thing to worry about then he gets older.

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Copper II

So, I repainted the firewall and inner grille shell today with the copper that was mixed by the paint shop. Much better, I like this. (The wife hasn't seen it yet, but I think she'll approve.) I also remembered the two lessons I learned last time I painted. 1) I'm no good at it, and 2) I don't enjoy it. The exterior will be painted by someone who knows what they're doing!:shrug:

The unveiling...no comments about runs, please...

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Now to decide whether to cut vents into the fenders behind the flares or not. Tomorrow's the day, then the inner fenders get painted and stuff starts going back together.:thumbsup:
 
Randyzzz said:
Now to decide whether to cut vents into the fenders behind the flares or not. Tomorrow's the day, then the inner fenders get painted and stuff starts going back together.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Like this...what do you think? (This is the DC Custom's Scrambler, photo from his facebook page)

forum
 
I vote yes for a couple reasons....
It gets hot in the engine compartment.
It will get REALLY hot with that V8.
Those vents WILL DRASTICALLY reduce engine compatment temperatures....

I prefer the smooth look too but sometimes function trumps form (for me anyways)... I would paint the vents body color to make them blend in better.

PS, paint looks awesome...
 
I like the smooth look too. I am having louvers cut into the top of my hood in an attempt to help keep the underhood temps down once I get the 5.3 installed. I guess you could do the fenders uncut and if the temps become a problem you could then install vents later.
 
I also perfer the "smooth" look but I don't mind the look of the vents. I do not like the look of the vent holes in the hood though. As for keeping underhood temps down I would think hood louvers would do a better job (as we all know, heat rises).
 
Got my braided front brake lines today, so they went on. Getting close to being able to bleed the system and have a pedal again!

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As much as I have to agree that the smooth look is nicer, the additional cooling did it for me. So, I cut the sides. I'm thinking the area behind the flares should be a suction area if my airflow dynamics are right, so they should pull heat out. I have seen the GenRight and other louvers...I don't care for the way they bolt on. Looks like an afterthought. The only way I'd louver the hood is to find someone who could stamp real ones. I don't know if I like the "porthole" look, so it's not an option. I'd really like to find an affordable cowl induction hood...in steel.

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A hole saw, die grinder, and a jigsaw...I'm missing the plasma right about now. But- I'm happy with the results. A little smaller than the ones on Dusty's red Scrambler, so hopefully they won't be too ugly.

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I'm also going to try and smooth things out by welding small studs to the back to retain the screen, instead of drilling through and having visible bolts. The screen came from a display I got from the Jeep/Chev dealer when it closed. Knew it would come in handy. I may try and paint it to match the body color. It's aluminum with 1/4" holes. Pretty thick, too-3/32".

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The correct Edelbrock shock came in today also, so now I have a matched set of working shocks up front. The shorter res. shocks didn't sell on EBay for the $150 I wanted out of them, so I may mount them on the back. Might as well...
 
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