Spankrjs' 1984 Long Term Project

wm69

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
God's Country
State
AR
Interesting, so for those of us who are running a basic MC2100 with all the CTO and EGR crap gone, how would that work? Tank goes to tank, purge to carb bowl vent, then air cleaner to one of the little nipples on the back of the air cleaner?
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Interesting, so for those of us who are running a basic MC2100 with all the CTO and EGR crap gone, how would that work? Tank goes to tank, purge to carb bowl vent, then air cleaner to one of the little nipples on the back of the air cleaner?
Probably not:shrug:

If I was running a non-stock carb, I would still make use of the stock charcoal canister system:twocents:

The TBI system is a bit different then a carb, since the TBI does not have a fuel bowl to vent back. Also, I believe that there is a vacuum sensitive valve inside this TBI charcoal canister, as well as inside the stock AMC canister, so that if the purge source is too much, it will open and pull in more outside air. Without some type of valve, the TBI purge source "could/maybe" cause too much vacuum/pressure in the system:shrug:

When these systems were designed, they used components that were engineered to work together. I would be hesitant to start mixing and matching components between two different fuel delivery systems:twocents:

This early model TBI charcoal system is simple:

1) Vent line from tank
2) Purge line directly to the base of the TBI

This particular TBI charcoal canister system is "basic". Once the throttle opens, it starts to purge the system. There is no electronic solenoid to delay the purge, and no thermal vacuum switched purge delay, either. Later TBI systems use an electronic solenoid, that the computer talks to, to initiate the vapor purge, once the engine is warmed up and the vehicle is at cruising speed.

On the stock Jeep carb charcoal canister, a bit more involved, but not too crazy:

1. Purge signal (ported vacuum) (from CTO switch, only allows vapor purging off idle/warmed up)
2. Purge line (manifold vacuum) (line that feeds trapped vapors into the engine to be burned)
3. Vent line from fuel tank
4. Vent line from carburetor bowl

If I was running a carb set up, I would make use of the stock style set up. :twocents:



I did two quick tests on my charcoal system last night:

1) Disconnected the tank vent line from the canister, hooked up my little hand held vacuum pump, and applied some vacuum. The vacuum did not hold, the air would flow right through, so my tank vent line should be clear of obstructions. After disconnecting the hand vacuum pump, I could smell gas, so the tank is venting through the vent line:thumbsup:

2) Temporarily installed a vacuum/boost gauge to the TBI purge source. At idle, no vacuum. Once off idle, and accelerating, the vacuum would increase up to approximately 20in, at around 4000RPM. So, the purge line works, and applies more vacuum as RPM increases.:thumbsup:


I should be able to report back in the next few weeks if the charcoal system is functioning correctly, but I believe it should be. The Jeep does not stink like raw fuel like it did before I hooked up the canister, so that is one huge step forward:thumbsup:
 

wm69

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
God's Country
State
AR
Reason I asked is I removed the CTO (actually, the PO did, but Jeep runs great so I'm not messing with it).

Guess I could figure out a ported vacuum nipple on this MC2100 and the rest is simple enough. Only manifold vacuum I have is going to the PCV valve. Could I tap into that line?
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Reason I asked is I removed the CTO (actually, the PO did, but Jeep runs great so I'm not messing with it).

Guess I could figure out a ported vacuum nipple on this MC2100 and the rest is simple enough. Only manifold vacuum I have is going to the PCV valve. Could I tap into that line?
Yes, I believe tied into the PCV line stock:thumbsup:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Finally started working on a new tunnel cover for this Scrambler. I have been using a heavily cut out T5 tunnel cover. It works, but is pretty butch, and with the huge holes, has no insulating capability.

The 700R4/Dana 300 combination I am running is pretty long, but I was able to get my transmission and transfer case shifter though the area covered by the stock tunnel cover. I did not have to cut the floor. I worked all of this out a good while back. Now, I just need to clean up my mess.

What I currently have (big holes, sucks):




Way too big of a hole for a Dana 300 shifter!!!!!!!!




The transmission shifter only needs a narrow slot, not this big hole.




Using blue tape to "close" in the big holes. I test shifted everything to make sure the Dana 300 shifter still had plenty of clearance.






Big empty hole now, except for the 700R4 shifter cable end.




I bought a few tunnel cover blanks from member "scsbccj8" awhile back. They look very nice, plus they are thicker then stock. This new plate will be better then stock.

Existing vs. the new blank:






And starting to make my cut out/screw hole marks on the new plate:




It is a bit time consuming to transfer all the marks/cut outs. Due to the curved nature of the plate, it is not as simple as tracing on the holes from the old plate on to the new plate. I first traced the holes, then pulled measurements off the old plate, and if necessary, corrected the new hole placements on the new plate. Kind of anal, but I want a nice, tight, heat resistant, quiet tunnel cover.

So far so good, that's it for now:wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I was able to knock out most of the new tunnel cover work last night.

Most of the holes drilled, holes cut out:





New vs. old, a lot more metal:





First test fit, need to trim a bit more around the transfer case shifter. I also decided to add two more mounting holes (where my fingers are) to hold down the passenger side, since I most probably wont be using a factory shifter boot.







And after adding two mounting holes, trimming a bit more off around the transfer case shifter, fits much better:







It was late last night when I finished, so I still need to test drive it. I know it seems that my transfer case opening does not allow much clearance, but it shifts into all the ranges with no problems. The transmission/motor mounts in this Scrambler really limit side to side power train twist. So, no worries about the transfer case shifter making contact with the tunnel cover. If it all works after a test drive, then I will pull it off for painting.

My one regret: I mounted the transmission shifter too close to the transfer case shifter. I actually like where the transmission shifter is mounted, centered. It allows for the shifter cable to be routed smoothly under the body, no funny twists, plenty of clearance, shifts perfect. There is also plenty of room to shift both shifters at the same time. But, with the transmission shifter mounted this close to the Dana 300 shifter, it is going to be tricky to mount shifter boots. I might have to slide the transmission shifter over to the driver side some to allow cleaner shifter boot installation.

Speaking of shifter boots, that's my next challange:rotfl:

That's it for now:wave:
 

gr8dain

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Ashburn
State
VA
Can you make one boot that is used for both sticks? Shouldn't be too difficult if made from leather or vinyl. Right?

Looks great by the way!

Dain
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Can you make one boot that is used for both sticks? Shouldn't be too difficult if made from leather or vinyl. Right?

Looks great by the way!

Dain
Appreciate it:thumbsup::cheers:

As for the boot, yes, I could make one, but it would probably look like :eek::rotfl:

I think I just solved my shifter boot issues, just have to wait on the delivery truck:fingerscrossed:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Ok, back on track.

I will be able to use a stock Dana 300 shifter boot, I think. I will be able to confirm this when I receive my transmission shifter boot. The 300 boot will require two holes in the tub floor, didn't want to drill holes, but nothing I can do.






The transmission shifter boot I ordered comes with a pretty thick "trim ring". I plan on bolting the transmission shifter boot/trim ring down first. Then, I will screw the "driver side" of the 300 shifter boot on top of the trim ring. Might not be the most "ideal" solution, but it should work, and hopefully look OK:fingerscrossed:

I took the floor tunnel/shifter back out, and moved them to my paint booth:rotfl:






The paint job turned out OK, might put on another coat.


I also am swapping out my stock, wore out tie rod/drag link. I am "upgrading" the stock parts to some HD Rugged Ridge parts:




So, I pulled off the stock parts, including the dropped pitman arm:




I am going to "flip" the tie rod and drag link to the top of the knuckles, just like my red Scrambler. This does two things:

1) Gets the linkage up high and out of the way of obstacles
2) Eliminates the need for a drop pitman arm

I am waiting on my knuckle inserts to show up in the mail, so I am stalled on this project, too.

So, before "Sand Blast", still need to:

1) install steering (waiting on knuckle inserts to finish)
2) install tunnel cover (paint and waiting on the transmission boot)
3) install radio (going to some pawn shops this weekend)

That's it for now:wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Good news and bad news.

Bad news


Instead of ordering three knuckle inserts, I only ordered one. The picture showed three, but they sell them individually. Waiting on UPS 2 day shipping for the other two.



I will go ahead and install the one insert tonight, and start to ream the other two holes. The other two inserts should show up tomorrow, or Thursday, at the latest. I need to get the Scrambler in running shape again by Saturday, we have a Jeep club ride about 3 hours away, last chance for a shakedown run before Michigan.



Good news

I just about finished my shifter boot/transmission tunnel installation. Something so simple has turned out to be quite a challenge.

This is what I used for a transmission shifter boot, worked out pretty good.




The first problem I ran into, the shifter ring would not clear the shifter mechanism. I should have measured before I ordered, but I did not want a bigger boot/trim ring, so I made this work.








The second problem I ran into: I ordered a boot with a stainless steel trim ring. The Dremel could not touch this stuff. But, the 4" angle grinder was able to "modify" it. An angle grinder is not my first choice for "finish" work, but it worked out OK, surprisingly. I used the grinder to clearance the four corners of the trim ring, so that it would clear the shifter mounting bolts. You "could"/ maybe swap two of the shifter mounting feet inward to gain clearance, but it might make the shifter unstable/loose.





I got the trim ring bolted down next. I then drilled holes to install the factory transfer case shifter boot. I had to drill two holes in the side of the transmission tunnel, but there was no way around this. One of the other Dana 300 shifter boot holes fell right onto the stainless transmission boot ring. I did not even attempt to drill it. You can just make out a "notch" I made in in the trim ring, lower right. This was easier then drilling a hole through the stainless.

Two holes in the body (transmission tunnel)
One hole though the stainless steel transmission shifter boot retainer ring
One hole between the trim ring and a tunnel cover screw
One hole on the tunnel cover, to the side/center of the shifter




The transmission shifter boot retainer ring turned out to be a blessing in disguise. It is very strong. This is good, because I cut out a bit too much tunnel cover for the transfer case shifter. The trim ring bridges this gap, and gives the transfer case shifter boot support in this area.





You can just make out a mounting hole, almost directly under the reverse/neutral safety switch.

 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
The transfer case boot occupies part of the transmission boots real estate. But, this is where the flexible/soft transmission boot comes in to save the day. I removed the transfer case boot. I then installed the transmission boot, under the stainless trim ring. I had to use bolts, with nuts on the bottom side, to secure the transmission shifter boot to the trim ring at the two holes over nothing. I then bolted the transfer case shifter boot on.


One final mock up, before I glue/seal it all up. I think it turned out pretty good, and should definitely help keep heat/noise out.








That's it for now:wave:
 

bigwalton

Picture cravin' AK Postal nut
Staff member
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
Would some black closed cell foam tape under the ring on the tcase boot work well to both seal it and allow more give around/over the tranny boot ring and be removable? glue seems drastic to me.
 

MrBeep

CJ-8 Vendor Supporter
CJ-8.com Vendor
City
Dillsboro
State
IN
Looks great! :thumbsup:

Your flag and chairs are loaded in the Raptor. Don't forget to bring the hole to install the flag in. :bacon: :wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Looks great. Nice work
Appreciate it:cheers:

Would some black closed cell foam tape under the ring on the tcase boot work well to both seal it and allow more give around/over the tranny boot ring and be removable? glue seems drastic to me.
Yes:thumbsup: I decided not to glue it down. I am running foam tape around the perimeter of the tunnel cover, and a homemade cork gasket between the base of the transmission shifter boot ring/tunnel cover. The transfer case boot fits tight to the floor on the passenger side, front, and back. The side against/on top of the transmission boot seals OK, but a strip of foam will make it 100%

Great minds think a like:cheers:

Looks great! :thumbsup:

Your flag and chairs are loaded in the Raptor. Don't forget to bring the hole to install the flag in. :bacon: :wave:
Appreciate it Toby:cheers: I will make sure to pull my flag bracket off the red Scrambler, it will probably be jealous:rotfl:


I have really been looking forward to the Sand Blast trip this year, and have been working all year on this Scrambler to make it ready for its first super long distance drive.

But, I am not sure if I will make it next week. My 92 year old grandma is in the ICU at the hospital, she doesn't have much longer. I will just have to see how it all works out:(

I hope to see all of y'all next week:fingerscrossed:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Appreciate it:cheers:



Yes:thumbsup: I decided not to glue it down. I am running foam tape around the perimeter of the tunnel cover, and a homemade cork gasket between the base of the transmission shifter boot ring/tunnel cover. The transfer case boot fits tight to the floor on the passenger side, front, and back. The side against/on top of the transmission boot seals OK, but a strip of foam will make it 100%

Great minds think a like:cheers:



Appreciate it Toby:cheers: I will make sure to pull my flag bracket off the red Scrambler, it will probably be jealous:rotfl:


I have really been looking forward to the Sand Blast trip this year, and have been working all year on this Scrambler to make it ready for its first super long distance drive.

But, I am not sure if I will make it next week. My 92 year old grandma is in the ICU at the hospital, she doesn't have much longer. I will just have to see how it all works out:(

I hope to see all of y'all next week:fingerscrossed:

Wont make it to Sand Blast:(

Grandma is still in hospice care, does not have much longer:(
 
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