Speedhut gauges
- Thread starter Bubuxio
- Start date
We run wieght to cubic inch with power adder points to determin classes. Ive beena rules man for the East Coast 4 Wheel Drive Association for decades. I get to see what really works or jus works. We should run the flat drags, 300 feet, 100 yards, in mid 3 second range at 105mph. the fun part is it's on sand or pea gravel. Done the NHRA thing, love the sand. Sory for the hi-jack.
- City
- Hampstead
- State
- NC
Figured I would revive this thread for a couple quick questions on the Speedhut gauge installation instructions.
-For Water Temp I have two sensors currently installed:
1) Is the OEM single post/wire sensor on the back of the cylinder head Drivers side. This has one purple wire for water temp signal that went to the OEM water temp gauge.
2) Is a modern weather-pack two wire sensor in the manifold that is an exact match to the SpeedHut sensor and wires. This is currently used for the Howell TBI computer.
-I believe my best solution would be to use the SpeedHut 2-wire harness and just tap the existing two wires coming from the weatherpack sensor already in the manifold
-How did you all use/install the speedhut sensor if anyone went this route?
-For Fuel Level, my Painless harness already has a signal wire from the sender to the gauge and a ground from the sender to the chassis. Is it possible to use the signal wire from the Painless Harness and just run the gauge to a ground near the dash? Or should it be grounded to the sender? Trying to avoid lowering the tank and running additional wires all the way back.
Thanks
-For Water Temp I have two sensors currently installed:
1) Is the OEM single post/wire sensor on the back of the cylinder head Drivers side. This has one purple wire for water temp signal that went to the OEM water temp gauge.
2) Is a modern weather-pack two wire sensor in the manifold that is an exact match to the SpeedHut sensor and wires. This is currently used for the Howell TBI computer.
-I believe my best solution would be to use the SpeedHut 2-wire harness and just tap the existing two wires coming from the weatherpack sensor already in the manifold
-How did you all use/install the speedhut sensor if anyone went this route?
-For Fuel Level, my Painless harness already has a signal wire from the sender to the gauge and a ground from the sender to the chassis. Is it possible to use the signal wire from the Painless Harness and just run the gauge to a ground near the dash? Or should it be grounded to the sender? Trying to avoid lowering the tank and running additional wires all the way back.
Thanks
Coolant temp sensor: Do you mean that the range for the Howell and Speedhut senders are identical (not just the plug/shape/threads)? My only worry when you start splicing into these kinds of wires is that fractions of an ohm can mean a different reading.
Somewhat similar on the fuel sender: they always seem temperamental, especially related to grounds. From what you're saying, can't you just use the Painless sender wire and at least pick up the ground where the Painless sender ground hits the chassis? Do you have to drop the tank to get to the Painless sender ground? I don't see any problem reusing the signal wire. You can certainly try to just ground the fuel guage somewhere near the dash and see if it works though
Worst case, you run back to the Painless ground, right?
Somewhat similar on the fuel sender: they always seem temperamental, especially related to grounds. From what you're saying, can't you just use the Painless sender wire and at least pick up the ground where the Painless sender ground hits the chassis? Do you have to drop the tank to get to the Painless sender ground? I don't see any problem reusing the signal wire. You can certainly try to just ground the fuel guage somewhere near the dash and see if it works though
Worst case, you run back to the Painless ground, right?
- City
- Hampstead
- State
- NC
Coolant temp sensor: Do you mean that the range for the Howell and Speedhut senders are identical (not just the plug/shape/threads)? My only worry when you start splicing into these kinds of wires is that fractions of an ohm can mean a different reading.
Somewhat similar on the fuel sender: they always seem temperamental, especially related to grounds. From what you're saying, can't you just use the Painless sender wire and at least pick up the ground where the Painless sender ground hits the chassis? Do you have to drop the tank to get to the Painless sender ground? I don't see any problem reusing the signal wire. You can certainly try to just ground the fuel guage somewhere near the dash and see if it works though Worst case, you run back to the Painless ground, right?
Somewhat similar on the fuel sender: they always seem temperamental, especially related to grounds. From what you're saying, can't you just use the Painless sender wire and at least pick up the ground where the Painless sender ground hits the chassis? Do you have to drop the tank to get to the Painless sender ground? I don't see any problem reusing the signal wire. You can certainly try to just ground the fuel guage somewhere near the dash and see if it works though
Worst case, you run back to the Painless ground, right?
The coolant sensor is another issue. I hear what your saying about splicing the wires. It just doesn't look like I can remove the stock Coolant Temp sensor and install the Speedhut one in its place, the speedhut sensor is physically larger and might be too large. Where did you install your new coolant temp sensor if you don't mind me asking?
Remember, I have a 4.0L. I debated either doing the Hesco replacement thermostat housing with the extra port or drilling/tapping mine and ended up doing an in-line temp sender port in the output hose to the heater core instead. I found the inline fitting somewhere online and spliced it in. Just a simple brass unit.
