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Randyzzz Scrambler Restification Thread!

Randy,
I'm getting ready to paint the Gaucho frame, and I was also planning on using Hammerite... :) I guess it's true what they say about great minds...

Which color did you use? Any tips for me? I'll be doing mine in a few days. Mine will be over Rustoleum primer instead of POR though.
Jeff
 
jscherb said:
Randy,
I'm getting ready to paint the Gaucho frame, and I was also planning on using Hammerite... :) I guess it's true what they say about great minds...

Which color did you use? Any tips for me? I'll be doing mine in a few days. Mine will be over Rustoleum primer instead of POR though.
Jeff
Click to expand...

Jeff- I used black on the frame, and dark gray on the skid/crossmember.

Tips? With the airless sprayer it went on really thick. The instructions say not to thin it, however. It was almost like spraying runny undercoat. In order to get full coverage, it had to go on really thick. There were several areas where it wanted to sag and run, and there were plenty of drips off the lower edge. I "flipped" the frame every 30 mins for about 4 hours and everything seemed to level pretty good. I think it will be a week before it gets good and hard. Maybe one of the newer sprayers would work better. I can't imagine spraying it with a conventional air sprayer...the overspray would be hell! Best advice- play on some old sheetmetal first before actually spraying the frame.

Eric....wicked, huh? I like it....
 
Randyzzz said:
Jeff- I used black on the frame, and dark gray on the skid/crossmember.

Tips? With the airless sprayer it went on really thick. The instructions say not to thin it, however. It was almost like spraying runny undercoat. In order to get full coverage, it had to go on really thick. There were several areas where it wanted to sag and run, and there were plenty of drips off the lower edge. I "flipped" the frame every 30 mins for about 4 hours and everything seemed to level pretty good. I think it will be a week before it gets good and hard. Maybe one of the newer sprayers would work better. I can't imagine spraying it with a conventional air sprayer...the overspray would be hell! Best advice- play on some old sheetmetal first before actually spraying the frame.

Eric....wicked, huh? I like it....
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm planning on using black Hammerite. Not having any spray equipment, I'm planning on brushing it. Since the hammered finish happens as it dries, that will do away with any brush marks that might occur. If things go well I'll get mine in primer tomorrow, and do the Hammerite no later than Monday.
 
Brushing just might be the ticket... post up pics when you're done!
 
Cool! I almost bought some "Nissan Burnt Orange" at a sale this weekend, House of Kolor for $50.00 a gallon....but decided against it. Thanks for the link. I guess I'll have to be "Copperhead II". I don't think mine will be "Blindingly Fast", but I hope it will be "Sorta Speedy"!:D

I started putting it back together today.... man, this feels good. More room in the garage too!

Here's the pics! (Everybody that stops by says "That engine is HUGE")! :D:D:D

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Wow, that went together quick! Almost time to start on the tub, huh? That chassis is going to be too nice to get muddy...although it should clean up nicely with the fresh "snakeskin" :D
 
Yeah, and everything lines up pretty good. The front driveshaft is a little close to my skid (3/8"), of course that's using a Waggy rear driveshaft for the front. Can you say Beef! I could modify the skid, but the shift lever on the trans is close too, so I may eventually just have a thickwall 1.5" shaft built. The rear shaft angle looks steeper than I thought, but with a CV shaft and rotating the pinion up it will be fine. This is a long engine/trans/transfer combo! I also think I'm going to lose the longer shackles, the caster really isn't where I want it. So back to stock height shackles, a 2* steel shim, and then a 1" body lift to make up the difference. That will help with clearance around the transfer case anyways. How do you like my "Super Tough" front shackle hangers?
 
Not a ton of progress this week, but I did get a lot of little things buttoned up. I changed the long shackles for some shorter ones, I like the way the shorter ones sit, plus with the long ones my front caster was going to be way off. I also reinstalled the steering box and fully bolted up my new front shackle hangers. I am really pleased with how they came out- don't think they will ever bend. I also reinstalled the prop valve and rear brake line, I will probably make up new front lines. Installed the flex plate to converter bolts and buttoned up the inspection covers. I also had to clearance the rear hoop on my skid due to moving the engine back. I'm glad I moved it, though- the clearance to the radiator is now 1 1/4". Installed the flex-fuel sensor, and my next project will be fuel lines and custom exhaust.

Here's how the engine mount bracket turned out.

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Plenty of clearance at the radiator now-

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The new shackles and the hangers, complete with the 5/8" side bolt!- the shackles are sitting straight up with the current load, with the tub on they should angle forward a bit. The hangers are offset outboard to match the 3/4" outboarded rear hangers, and also wider to match the Wrangler RE springs.

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It's looking like a Jeep again!

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Here's how I clearanced the skid tube- it's 1/4" wall channel. The thing on the left is the flex-fuel sensor.

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Ok, this weeks project is the exhaust. Here's a quick rundown on how I mocked up the system. I hate paying big $$ and having to tow a non-running vehicle to an exhaust shop, only to get not quite what I envisioned and possibly scratches and other damage on new paint/ect. I had decided on 2.5" pipes going around and under tho oil pan, and going 2 into 1 on the passenger side. I bought some 2" ABS fittings and pipe at Lowes, as they have a 4" CLR and the ABS is almost the same size as 2.5" exhaust tubing. I then started trying different combinations and bends, attempting to keep with 90* and 45* if possible. After about 15 minutes, Ii hit on the magic combo. 2 90*s, 1 45*, and a Y-Pipe and some straight tubing, and I'm back to the muffler. Now I just have to order a couple of mandrel bent u-tubes from Summit, and cut and weld to match my model. I'm looking at $10.00 for mockup supplies, and another $50.00 for tubing and flanges. Once all that is in I'll work on a muffler and tailpipes.

Here's some pics of my custom plastic exhaust!:D

Out of the left manifold...
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Under the pan...
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Across to the other side...
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Back towards the Y on the right side...
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Through the Y and out the back.
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I'm planning on using heat wrap from the manifolds back to after the Y-pipe so it doesn't cook the oil in the pan or the starter wires. It has about 3/4" clearance from the pan, plenty of clearance at the driveshaft, and is level with the bottom of the frame.
 
Great idea! :thumbsup:

I guess you couldn't go straight back from the manifolds & merge into a "Y" pipe behind the oil pan for some reason?

You don't want "true duals" all the way back?
 
Hey maybe it is just me but I don't think that ABS will hold up to the heat of the exhuast :eek::D

Truck
 
jeffs396 said:
Great idea! :thumbsup:

I guess you couldn't go straight back from the manifolds & merge into a "Y" pipe behind the oil pan for some reason?

You don't want "true duals" all the way back?
Click to expand...

Had duals before...looking for something a little bit more mellow sounding. I must be getting old or something....

I can't run it down the drivers side without either using smaller tube or hanging lower than everything else. I have it planned so all the fluid lines (brake and gas) are on the opposite side of the frame from the exhaust.

Hey, Truck- do you think the ABS would hold up if i painted it with manifold paint?:D:D:D
 
i say fire her up and see how it holds up!!
 
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