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bigwalton Postal teardown/rebuild - what would you do?

AdamH said:
As you know I have used my original Postal tub, an OEM tub and now have this:

View attachment 108220
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Oh I know and I'm super jealous. This is what I really want to do, but with updates:
-in tank fuel pump access door
-workarounds for access to all mounting bolt locations (the idea of captured nuts in weak "cages" with no access is insane IMO)
-narrowed wheel wells (waggy HD20) since they are the critical thing that needs redone anyway

and some other things I'm forgetting (should have made a list somewhere).
 
Bad Karma said:
In the words of someone on our group text... LS SWAP IT!! :ROFLMAO:

I'm surprised you haven't reached out to me on this stuff in our usual convos.
I can't speak for your tub, but as for the TDK frame, mine was set up for LHD (obviously). The position they had the mount was completely wrong for my set up. Mind you my TDK frame had custom stuff built into it so that may have been a contributing factor. If you get a frame and cannot get it set up as RHD, it is super easy to relocate the mounts to where ever you want. I can help you if you need it.
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You apparently won't cross the border anymore anyway...
 
bigwalton said:
Oh I know and I'm super jealous. This is what I really want to do, but with updates:

-narrowed wheel wells (waggy HD20) since they are the critical thing that needs redone anyway
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Forgive my ignorance, but what exactly are you referencing when you say narrowed wheel wells? Like narrowing the wheel tubs in the "bed" to gain more bed space? If so, what is the plan for expanding the bed floor? I ask because the thought occurred to me as well, intending to run 65" 14-bolt, and the space to be able to run a wider bench would be neat.
 
93_Fummins said:
Forgive my ignorance, but what exactly are you referencing when you say narrowed wheel wells? Like narrowing the wheel tubs in the "bed" to gain more bed space? If so, what is the plan for expanding the bed floor? I ask because the thought occurred to me as well, intending to run 65" 14-bolt, and the space to be able to run a wider bench would be neat.
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Exactly. I have no skill so my thought was simply splicing in flat sheet metal to fill the gap from narrowed wheelwells. Part of it is to fit a bigger back seat with headrests. (The issue is shock mounting because part of this project HAS to be finding an alternate shock mounting setup because I've been through a dozen or more of the RE U-bolt skid lower shock mounts to the point that there's no thread left for the mounts to screw in. I was thinking about trying to run the Ford shock towers in the rear and that may preclude narrowing the wheelwells.

I know I've seen this done before on here, maybe by @certifiablejeep

I was thinking to find a larger wheelwell to cut to the desired width and to minimize the patching required around the outside lip at the tub while also making more space for wheel stuffing.
 
I posted these in another thread earlier. I made these shock mounts out of 1.5” square tubing with the shock studs from the original leaf spring plates. Very simple to make. Also keeps everything high and clean. I did the same thing front and rear. I don’t think you will be able to narrow the wheel wells much though if you outboard like this.

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Nice. That's pretty much what I was thinking but using the Ford option. I figured about the wheel wells if I went that route.

None of this was properly planned out, I'm just throwing out ideas.
 
Extending the wheel-wells would not be difficult - essentially that's what i had to do to repair mine, (the outboard edges are going to be rusty) just flat sheet bent round a wood former. You would end up narrowing the bed - but that's straight cuts and folds. Hey if i can do it then any one can, cutting out pieces with a spot weld cutter gets easy after a while. Strip the thing down yourself, sub out the tub and frame and other major parts and do the rebuild. It will end up being a couple years tho. Get some quotes for the bodywork from someone you trust.
 
bigwalton said:
I spent about an hour with the main man at Aqualu in the parking lot of the vendor show at EJS one year talking about exactly this. I started the conversation in their booth about the World Cab fitment and he asked "do you have it here?" and so we walked out and discussed it.

He took a ton of pride in the fact that their entire operation is run on CNC machines, all the cutting, forming and bending is set and 100% repeatable. He thought that they were spot on with the stock dimensions but said that if I could get him precise measurements of the upper tub lip he could verify it and would tweak anything needed.

Obviously that's probably out now, but the discussion 99.8% convinced me that it would be fine. Any issues would likely be from my disassebly/reassembly of the top over the years and not the tub. (It's actually quite difficult to get the top back together exactly as stock when you try to use the stock gaskets between parts, I never mastered that.)

If I do a stock tub, it would 100% be fixing MY tub. People that have a clue would have no problem fixing my tub the way I want, but I just have no clue and the idea of butchering it scares me silly.
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I once read a post from certifiable that really changed my perspective. He stated “it’s only metal“. That statement has stuck with me over the last few years, and has helped me dive into things that I might’ve hesitated to do. You got this Bigwalton. I’m totally excited for you👍😂
 
HighSierra CJ said:
I once read a post from certifiable that really changed my perspective. He stated “it’s only metal“. That statement has stuck with me over the last few years, and has helped me dive into things that I might’ve hesitated to do. You got this Bigwalton. I’m totally excited for you👍😂
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@HighSierra CJ glad I could help.... but I can't take credit... I learned that statement from an older gentleman that, in my opinion was a master craftsman/woodworker, but he said he just liked to create things. He said that "its only wood". He said that you can fix anything, but it is easier to do it certain ways... with most things, don't cut it too short, or you have to fill it back in and that takes more time.

I was very fortunate (or not, depending on how you look at life) to have experienced a lot of situations when I was very young that taught me a lot of things... I wanted to learn, so I just opened up my brain and sponged it up. I also had very... VERY... patient people that took the time to teach when I asked questions. I spent most of my childhood working and making a lot of mistakes. I still make a ton of them, but I try to learn from each one.

As for fixing tubs/frames... it is only metal, that much is true. It takes a lot of time/patience. Sadly I don't have any time these days...

cb
 
Well, you certainly have a knack for metal work. I have enjoyed following your threads over the years. It has inspired/motivated me to take on projects that I otherwise would’ve shopped out to others. Thank you for the detailed, write ups, and inspiration.
 
That’s true but when fixes require cutting things out you screw up, that’s where I start worrying about stuff.

You get one panel from Classic, cut it to fit, screw it up and have to cut out what you goof and now instead of one weld (that I screwed up) I have that weld plus more for the patch I now need.

The self-doubt is crippling but I guess I managed to talk myself into committing to trying to fix this up and drive it back from AK sight unseen with basically no automotive experience :rotfl:
 
Don't worry about this or have self doubt. Driving back from AK was way more scary than a little metal work. Metal is much easier to work with than wood. If you mess up you can always add more. Just get a sheet of 18 or 20 gauge and some patch panels. The first cut is the hardest but every cut after that gets easier.

The most important thing.... Don't let perfection be the enemy of good.
 
bigwalton said:
That’s true but when fixes require cutting things out you screw up, that’s where I start worrying about stuff.

You get one panel from Classic, cut it to fit, screw it up and have to cut out what you goof and now instead of one weld (that I screwed up) I have that weld plus more for the patch I now need.

The self-doubt is crippling but I guess I managed to talk myself into committing to trying to fix this up and drive it back from AK sight unseen with basically no automotive experience :rotfl:
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You are definitely on a slippery slope. IMO, it is absolutely worth trying to salvage. I feel like the original body is part of the soul of the Jeep. It was with you on all of those long road trips and adventures. I feel that it’s definitely worth the effort to preserve as much of the original body as possible. However, it is really easy for me to sit back and think/suggest this route, when I’m not the one facing the challenges of the project.

As I have been told many times in the past, this is your Jeep. There is no wrong decision when it comes to modifications and improvements. Continue to make her your own!
Good luck with your project. I’m looking forward to sipping bourbon, smoking cigars, and reading about your progress.
 
Couple of ideas here. First of all…metal is intimidating but when you get right down to it, it’s more forgiving than wood. You can always put metal back on…try that with wood. Anyways, I agree that the original body and frame are the heart and soul of the vehicle. So if you can keep them, you’re ahead of the game.

I have a boat deck hatch that you’re welcome to. It’s brand new, about 12”x14”, and it’s made out of black poly. Heavy duty. My bed floor was pristine or I would have used it myself. So there’s that.

Widening the area between the wheel wells. The rear axle travels in an arc, in the direction of the shackle. That’s one of the reasons the stock mount was angled back. If you took Sdudpilot’s idea and angled it towards the rear like stock, you could gain width over the majority of the wheel well. Maybe just a box like area at the back for the shock tower. Also, look at the wheel wells from a 72-73 commando. They have an angled area towards the top for more seat room. Remember- the seat doesn’t sit flat on the floor, there’s room to play with.

I can’t recommend a LS swap enough. But probably not enough to get you to do one. 😁I can’t think of anyone who has done one and wished they hadn’t. You want reliability and power from a platform that provides all you need in stock form? LS, baby.

If a LS swap seems wrong because it’s not Jeep, then do a Hemi. It’s not “Jeep” either but at least it’s been used in Jeeps.

Face it. You need to do this at some point. I know your reasons for wanting to try and limp through for one more year- but if we’re honest, it’s the people and the relationships that make the events. What you drive isn’t as important as the memories made with friends.
 
I will offer a few ideas…

1. The 4.0l is a great option but the sound of a V8 and the go makes me smile every time… non daily driver and sits for extended periods fuel injection. I did the Hemi because it’s been in Jeeps… that said, when I started it was a little harder as there are less in CJ’s and requires a little more research. Lots of LS support…
2. For me, steel body, repair or find donor would be my direction.
3. Wiring would be Painless pre terminated with Speedhut gauges.

For the refrigerator, a dedicated outlet matching your fridge brand. I have the ARB directly connected to battery. https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10900027...mzn1.fos.304cacc1-b508-45fb-a37f-a2c47c48c32f

For other 12v I like the Switch Pros, get the pigtail for ARB compressor, see link https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WDD69JR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Final thought, start assembling parts as sometimes it takes months and slows down build. Thanks for letting us provide input and good luck with your build…
 
rubclt said:
Final thought, start assembling parts as sometimes it takes months and slows down build.
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100% agree on this...
or no longer available when you finally have time for the build.

I have some great parts for my build that are no longer available. Kind of like the Aqualu tubs will be shortly :(
 
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