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New purchase...'85 Scrambler Renegade

Photos

Nice looking engine & trans!:D
 
MrBeep said:
Nice looking engine & trans!:D

There's always a wise-guy in the crowd. I'm sure it would look nicer sitting on your pole barn floor. :rotfl:


revho said:
when did you get a cub scout?

:) That would be twmattox's old sticker. I'm sure I'll eventually remove it. BTW, you should stop over soon, Kevin. The pole barn progress (organization is really coming along. We also have some car seats to give you if you can use them (we'll call or PM you via greatlakes).


Craig
 
I made some good progress again this weekend. For anyone who owns a CJ, and has looked closely at the frame, you know that the factory welds are often times less-than-impressive. I attached a pic of some of the stock welds, along with stitch welds I added to the top of the frame (I'll flip the frame to do the underside). I'm basically overlaying all factory welds for the crossmembers, and where the inner & outer frame rails meet.

I also got one of the new fuel line 75% of the way bent up (no pic yet). I just used standard steel "roll" tubing from Napa. It follows all of the factory lines, and turned out nicely.

I also got word that my BioPro 150 processor shipped a couple days ago, and should be arriving within the week. :D

More frame prep to come this week...

Craig

attachment.php


Note: All the oil that leaked out of the motor is still clinging to the frame rails. :D
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Early arrival...

My BioPro 150 arrived two days early. I'm in the process of getting it assembled (minor final assembly), and will do a "dry test" to validate everything works this weekend. I just picked up 60 more gallons of WVO this week, so I'm anxious to get rolling with the bio-D production. :)

Craig

attachment.php
 
Project update (6/21)...

I'm still in the process of stripping the frame. Fortunately, all bolts cam out easily (that's a serious blessing when dealing with a 23-year-old CJ. :) Today, I got the power steering box, brake lines, exhaust hanger bracketry, etc. removed. I'm on-track to have the frame hot-dip galvanized on July 30th. I'm just now researching primer/paint options (I already talked with Finish Master about some PPG paint options), as I want to paint the frame semi-flat black for a factory look. The galvanizing will protect it, and the paint is mainly for aesthetics, although it will also help protect it.


stripping_frame.jpg



I also cut off the old rear crossmember. It had a small tweak from where a previous owner hooked onto the lower edge and bent it out. If I had a torch, I probably could have straightented it, but opted to go with a heavy-duty Rugged Ridge/Omix-Ada crossmember. Here it is during a test-fit. I'll weld it on shortly...

new_rear_crossmember.jpg



I also got more of the frame rail stitch welding done (passenger top side is done).

more_stitch_welds.jpg



Finally, I decided to not leave well-enough alone, and decided to pretty up the motor mounts by grinding/sanding the corners of the box section of the mounts. Here's how they're turning out...much nicer. :woot:

sanded_motor_mount.jpg
 
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I made some good progress on the Scrambler during my day off today. I started wire-wheeling & sandblasting the frame, and got my motor mounts welded to the frame, as well. I'm taking the frame over to Redford to be hot-dip galvanized at the end of the month, and they said that sandblasting it first gives it a nicer finished texture than just burning the paint off, and then galvanizing (they're still going to burn it to get the paint out of the inside of the frame rails). For anyone who happens to find this thread down the road, I was quoted $150 to burn off all paint, and $250 to acid dip & galvanize the frame ($400 total) by Voigt & Schweitzer Galvanizers in Redford, MI. It's pretty reasonable, IMO.

The sandblasting is slow work, as my sandblaster is just a cheapie "hobbyist" sandblaster, but by wire-wheeling most of it first, I shouldn't have any problems getting it fully prepped before the end of the month.


Motor Mount (passenger side):
forum


Motor Mount (driver side):
forum


Both Motor Mounts:
installed_motor_mounts_3.jpg



I also got the new HD rear crossmember welded on.

new_crossmember.jpg
 
looking good

your build is looking really good, that bio thingy majig is quite a contraption, i like where it says manual override-makes it sound dangerous-lol how those kiddos doing with that bike you built them, hope all is well, jay
 
Craig, awesome project, i wish I had your meticulousness and stick to it ness, My one and only frame off was never fully finished (didn't get the window washers installed) and the restoration on my wife's 59 MG has stalled, again. Regardless, what really intrigues me is the diesel conversion and the home brewed bioD. I was toying with both myself although I had thought of going withthe Cummins BT4 although the SD33 might work better with my in situ 999TF. I'm really wondering if you are finding issue in collecting the WVO to refine, I have been seeing here locally that recyclers/biod makers are paying nearly $3/gal for waste grease and oil, better than the $4.80/gal for conventional diesel here at the moment but not exactly a huge bargain once the rest of the costs are factored in. Plus, the TWO fast food restraunts in town (yes there are only two) are both under contract as are all of the rest (maybe 5-6 other sources). Did you work out a contract with someplace(s) to remove their waste oils or have a friend/relative with a source or??? Seems like you will be producing way more than you need personally, do you have a storage method to ensure the refined fuel remains 'good'.

Sorry to take this so far off topic but it's darn fascinating and again, I have been so impressed with each of your projects to date that i know the bio production will be done right and is well thought out.

thanks!

tr
 
luvinmyjeeps said:
your build is looking really good...

Thanks Jay. :)


trust said:
Craig, awesome project, i wish I had your meticulousness and stick to it ness, My one and only frame off was never fully finished (didn't get the window washers installed) and the restoration on my wife's 59 MG has stalled, again. Regardless, what really intrigues me is the diesel conversion and the home brewed bioD. I was toying with both myself although I had thought of going withthe Cummins BT4 although the SD33 might work better with my in situ 999TF. I'm really wondering if you are finding issue in collecting the WVO to refine, I have been seeing here locally that recyclers/biod makers are paying nearly $3/gal for waste grease and oil, better than the $4.80/gal for conventional diesel here at the moment but not exactly a huge bargain once the rest of the costs are factored in. Plus, the TWO fast food restraunts in town (yes there are only two) are both under contract as are all of the rest (maybe 5-6 other sources). Did you work out a contract with someplace(s) to remove their waste oils or have a friend/relative with a source or??? Seems like you will be producing way more than you need personally, do you have a storage method to ensure the refined fuel remains 'good'.

Sorry to take this so far off topic but it's darn fascinating and again, I have been so impressed with each of your projects to date that i know the bio production will be done right and is well thought out.

thanks!

tr

Thanks trust. I know about slow and/or unfinished projects...trust me. :D I sold my Inca Gold Scrambler before it was even on the road, as I just got burnt out on it. There have been other deserted projects along the way. I'm trying to see this one through.

I'm getting my WVO for free from two places, and I'm trying to secure a 3rd place where I'll hopefully be buying it (for $0.50/gal.). I currently have somewhere around 380-390 gallons stored up. There's a lot of talk on the biodiesel boards about free oil going away. That's understandable given supply & demand, but $3/gal. for used oil is outrageous, and isn't sustainable. Many rendering companies appear to be paying big $$$ initially to get the business, but there's also talk of them only paying this for a few months, then stiffing restaurant owners with "revised" offers shortly thereafter.

BTW, the SD-33 won't work with a 999 transmission. I stuck with the TF-727. Some may argue the engine choice, but for me, it was simple...cost. I already had the drivetrain.


Craig
 
Thanks Craig, no issues with storing that much as far as it going 'bad'? not sure you need any more info or anything but there is a bio forum here:

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=18

if you are interested.

I'm really intrigued by it, one station near here does sell bio diesel (B20) but it's another $0.25/gal (and conventional is $4.89 now) so I haven't tried it. I'd love to make my own, I have a VW deisel that my daughter was driving too, but the initial cost, the availability and the lack of space all sort of dampen my enthusiasm.

Hmm, I thought the 727 and 999 shared a common bolt pattern, or is it a non amc 727 you are using? Thanks for the info. Having the drivetrain in hand would make the decision process much easier! lol I know it did when I was starting my other, abandonded, scrambler, the 304 and 999 in the garage were hard to ignore.

Excellent work my friend, keep it up!
 
trust said:
I'd love to make my own, I have a VW deisel that my daughter was driving too, but the initial cost, the availability and the lack of space all sort of dampen my enthusiasm.

Hmm, I thought the 727 and 999 shared a common bolt pattern, or is it a non amc 727 you are using? Thanks for the info. Having the drivetrain in hand would make the decision process much easier! lol I know it did when I was starting my other, abandonded, scrambler, the 304 and 999 in the garage were hard to ignore.

Excellent work my friend, keep it up!

VWs seem to be very popular with both WVO & biodiesel usage. :) Yes, there are barriers to entry (financially, time-wise, etc.), which is why everyone won't be doing it.

biodiesel.infopop.cc is the board I spend most of my time on, but I'll check the one you mentioned, too.

The TF-727 internals are the same as a normal 727, but the bellhousing bolt pattern is an oddball motorhome pattern. Scouts did use a T-19 4-speed manual, but you'll be hard-pressed to find a non-International 4WD auto transmission that would work. NOTE TO SELF: Pray the transmission case doesn't ever get damaged. :D

Later,
Craig
 
1x1_Speed_Craig said:
The TF-727 internals are the same as a normal 727, but the bellhousing bolt pattern is an oddball motorhome pattern. Scouts did use a T-19 4-speed manual, but you'll be hard-pressed to find a non-International 4WD auto transmission that would work. NOTE TO SELF: Pray the transmission case doesn't ever get damaged.
I read that the 727 behind the diesels is a Mopar big block bolt pattern and, then, has an adapter, too.
 
John N said:
I read that the 727 behind the diesels is a Mopar big block bolt pattern and, then, has an adapter, too.

The big block Mopar thing was discussed on the CJ-10 Yahoo Group, but it was determined (last I knew) that this was not the case, and that it's actually a motorhome bolt pattern, which is different. And yes, there is a ~2.5" thick adapter between the SD-33 and the transmission.

Craig
 
I'm New At This....

1x1_Speed_Craig said:
The big block Mopar thing was discussed on the CJ-10 Yahoo Group, but it was determined (last I knew) that this was not the case, and that it's actually a motorhome bolt pattern, which is different. And yes, there is a ~2.5" thick adapter between the SD-33 and the transmission.

Craig
I bow to the master on this....:bow:
 
Where's waldo?

Hey Craig,
Just wondering what happened to this build and how the bio-processor is doing? And what kind of power does the nissan put out? Does it take well to turbo/upgrades?
 
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I know he sold the project and I don't think he's doing the bio anymore, could be wrong.

I think he's still subscribing to threads here, so hopefully he'll jump in.
 
...sigh, ok.

No more diesel jeep... :(
Thanks for the heads up BW. Funny how life works sometimes in the jeep world huh? :)
 
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