OT: Retro Wrangler/Willys Pickup (long)

[Randyzzz]

If you're looking for a semi-domed flat plug for the ends of the bedrails, I have had great luck using steel freeze plugs - they have a slight dome, are available in a variety of sizes, and the steel is easily weldable. I use them alot on tube bumpers and roof racks. They usually have a slight friction fit- weld them in, grind and fill- looks great.

 

[Wyoming]

Where did you get the pictures of the small round led lights?

 

[jscherb]

Where did you get the pictures of the small round led lights?

If you right-click on the photo of the ones you're interested in and select Properties, you can see the website they are from. I just linked to the photos.

Jeff

 

[Truck]

As usual Jeff you are doing a wonderful job. I'm curious why you want to use the export taillights. I think if you were going for a factory look you would use standard taillights. And those style lights have been used on trucks for dang near 50 years. To me the export lights will look out of place on this vehicle. Just my opinion and it is worth what you paid.

Oh yeah, I do like the placement of them.

Truck

 

[jscherb]

As usual Jeff you are doing a wonderful job. I'm curious why you want to use the export taillights. I think if you were going for a factory look you would use standard taillights. And those style lights have been used on trucks for dang near 50 years. To me the export lights will look out of place on this vehicle. Just my opinion and it is worth what you paid.

Oh yeah, I do like the placement of them.

Truck

Truck,
You're right, and I agree with you that the stock tail lights would probably be more in keeping with the retro theme. The export lights are definitely factory, but just not retro enough. The years I lived and traveled overseas all I saw were export lights. In Europe at least they haven't used the US-style lights at least since the seventies, probably earlier. I just like them, so I guess this will be one small inconsistency with the theme. Guilty as charged. If the guilt gets to be too much for me I can always switch back to the US style lights. When I made the wiring changes to the LJ I did them so they are quickly reversible.
Jeff

 

[jscherb]

I worked on prototyping the fuel filler today. I plan to put it on the bed side just below the bed floor (the line of spot welds visible in the first photo). This will be about 5 inches lower than it sits on a TJ, so I'll probably have to shorten the filler tube a bit, but this still places it above the top of the tank. I'll also have to re-bend the goofy vent tube to avoid the bed floor, you can see in the second photo how high it arches.

The first photo is a cardboard template stuck on the bed side with tape, second photo is my first attempt at folding one up from 16-gauge sheet metal. The idea is to mount the filler tube at the same angle it is mounted in the TJ. The standard TJ gas cap will be used.

I pretty comfortable with this idea, but I'm posting this to see if anyone has any better ideas.

Jeff

 

[John N]

Just a thought....

Could you put the filler in the back side of the actual fender? Just having the cap showing on the outside or maybe just an access door there to get to the filler. It might look cleaner to not have it sitting on the side of the bed. I doubt you need the full amount of room under the fenders, you won't be flexing the truck out.

 

[jscherb]

Could you put the filler in the back side of the actual fender? Just having the cap showing on the outside or maybe just an access door there to get to the filler. It might look cleaner to not have it sitting on the side of the bed. I doubt you need the full amount of room under the fenders, you won't be flexing the truck out.

John,
Interesting idea. I just went downstairs to the workshop to look into this possibility. I don't think it is feasible. I'd have to completely modify the filler tube, since it would stick straight into the tire, and all of the plumbing would be visible inside the fender because the lip on the fender is only about 1 1/2" wide, not enough to hide stuff. Plus a fairly convoluted path from the filler to the tank. If these were "fat fenders" like the 46 Chev. this bed is from the idea would work great, but since they're "Willys style" fenders I don't see how it would work.

But thanks for the idea!
Jeff

 

[Randyzzz]

Could the box for the filler be frenched in- or recessed and a door covering it? I'll keep thinking....

 

[jscherb]

Here's what the original Willys filler looks like. A minimalist job. I made the bracket because the TJ filler needs support but I was sort of going for a modern version of this...

 

[FredX]

First I'd like to say that this build is Awesome!!!! I've been following the build since you've started. You defintaly have a unique talent. I'm from WNY in the Buffalo Rochester area. If I ever come home to visit I'd love take a ride over to see your build.

Any way. I had a suggestion on the gas fill location/design. Why don't you do something similar to the cj-5 and 6's. It wont stick out as far and it will still have the retro look. I've attached some pic for a visual aid. On a side note. The red cj-6 is on ebay if anyone has been looking for one. Its Not mine.

I don't have a scrambler yet. But I have all the mods that I'd like to have on my dream scrambler designed in my head. I was hoping I would win the raffle . Oh well. My time will come

 

[jscherb]

First I'd like to say that this build is Awesome!!!! I've been following the build since you've started. You defintaly have a unique talent. I'm from WNY in the Buffalo Rochester area. If I ever come home to visit I'd love take a ride over to see your build.

Any way. I had a suggestion on the gas fill location/design. Why don't you do something similar to the cj-5 and 6's. It wont stick out as far and it will still have the retro look. I've attached some pic for a visual aid. On a side note. The red cj-6 is on ebay if anyone has been looking for one. Its Not mine.

Fred,

Thanks for the nice comments and the idea. I did look into recessing the filler into the bed side like the CJ5/6, but to do that would require moving the filler down another 4 inches or so to clear the bed floor, and if I moved it that far down it wouldn't be high enough above the top of the tank to work properly. By having it stick out the filler opening can actually be above the bed floor and that way I get enough height. Unfortunately clearances and dimensions for this one are pretty tight.

Jeff

EDIT: Notice in the earlier photo of the Willys - that filler opening is above the bed floor as well, same issue there.

 

[Randyzzz]

Ok, I guess my main objection was it looks sort of awkward right in the center of the open area. The OE Jeep filler did too. Could it be moved back next to the tailgate support?

 

[jscherb]

Ok, I guess my main objection was it looks sort of awkward right in the center of the open area. The OE Jeep filler did too. Could it be moved back next to the tailgate support?

Yes, maybe it can... I won't be placing it until I've got the bed on the frame and I see how the filler hose can be routed so when I get to that point in the project I'll try to move it as far back as possible. Good idea.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[bigwalton]

No chance of going with something more like the blue Willys photo? I have no idea what's needed in terms of filler necks.

I tried to google up a photo showing a neck like that, flatbed trucks always have those type and I thought it would be perfect for this.

 

[jscherb]

No chance of going with something more like the blue Willys photo? I have no idea what's needed in terms of filler necks.

I tried to google up a photo showing a neck like that, flatbed trucks always have those type and I thought it would be perfect for this.

I agree, but I am concerned with the emissions police. The 2006 Jeeps have a sophisticated leak detection system connected to the OBD-2 computer, and they check gas caps as well during inspection, so I'm reluctant to make too many changes to the fuel system. That's why I'm using the stock filler tube and gas cap. Maybe I'm being too cautious here but it would really suck to get everything done and have to redo it because the emissions police failed me.

I'm going to the Pick n Pull in a few minutes, I'll see if they have any bigger trucks with fillers that look like they could be compliant with late model emissions regs.

Jeff

 

[bigwalton]

I'm going to the Pick n Pull in a few minutes, I'll see if they have any bigger trucks with fillers that look like they could be compliant with late model emissions regs.

That's what I meant to say: modern flatbeds have these, so I'd think that they'd have some manner of working with the computers. Hope you find something good.

 

[jscherb]

That's what I meant to say: modern flatbeds have these, so I'd think that they'd have some manner of working with the computers. Hope you find something good.

The only flatbeds that were in the yard today are maybe 80's, if even that new. So nothing useful.

The bed structure is coming together, here's a photo. Some explanation is required:

1. Stock 46 Chev bed cross sill. The bed comes with three of these. Because I have decided to use 9/16" thick TimberTech decking, instead of the 1 1/4" stuff (100 pounds weight savings!), I will need to add additional cross sills to support the thinner floor.

2. These are the locations where additional cross sills will be added. Stock 46 Chev cross sills will be used, yesterday I ordered three more.

3. Well two of the three additional cross sills will be stock, the third one which goes in between the frame humps will be shortened and supported by these perforated angle braces I made up yesterday.

4. I had made up some angle brackets to bolt/weld to the frame to support the bed, and these would work fine, but while in the junkyard the other day I found these cross members from a Dakota pickup. (the black upside-down "U" pieces"). They'll be perfect to support the bed, so I picked up a second one at the yard today. You can see two of them in the photo. Two cross sill mounts (plus the rear frame crossmember) is all the stock 46 Chev used, but I'd like to add a third because these Dakota pieces are a little light, but I need to find a Dakota in a junkyard with the bed already off - you can't pull these out if the bed is still on and I'm not up for taking a bed off just to get at this part. I'll get these sandblasted clean prior to adapting them to the Jeep frame.

My builder ordered the TimberTech decking for me, it is supposed to arrive tomorrow. His discount wasn't so much better than the price I got, I'll be paying about $65 per board x five boards. (List price $80)

Jeff

 

[jscherb]

I've been thinking how to secure cargo in the bed. This TimberTech is fairly slippery stuff (sort of like one of those plastic bed liners), so I think I need something. I found these stainless tie-downs, and routed a recess in a sample board so the tie-down is below the surface. This isn't the actual color I'm using, my boards will be a light teak brown, and the recess is a little rough because I didn't have exactly the right router bit on hand today.

I was thinking of putting 4 of these along each side of the bed. I could keep some elastic tie down straps in the truck and when needed hook them on these and over the cargo.

The negative is that these recesses will probably collect dirt and crap and I'll always be cleaning them out. I looked for some better tie downs that wouldn't require recesses like this and can only find zinc plated ones, which will rust quickly.

I'm not sure about this idea, what do you guys think?
Jeff

 

[CJ-8_Jim]

How about recessing this into the deck boards so it's flush with the bed deck?

Not sure what the depth is of these... ideally you'd want to secure these to the underlying deck cross members. Perhaps holes in crossmembers to allow installation?