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Randyzzz Scrambler Restification Thread!

I chose to switch all the Upper Row functions separately. Might be a legality issue in some areas, but I know there are times when I wish I could have just the headlamps on, or just the dash lamps, ect. Now I can. :thumbsup: And when you turn on the dash lamp switch, all the other switch legends illuminate. I guess I am sort of a control freak!:crazy:

when I was reading what you did with the switches, I was thinking... I'm gonna post up that there is a contura switch that can handle all 3, freeing up 2 switches...
BUT THEN..
I read youre reasoning and I was like SWEET!!! i'll have to steal that idea!!

nice job, looks great!
 
Randy, I've seen some mighty nice builds here but your is at the top of my list. When I grow up I want to be just like you..LOL
 
You know, Dennis, some day I want a shop/house like yours!

Little update...still wiring. My goal was to simplify the harness, yet with all the added features I think it's more complicated than before. At least it's all in one trunk, instead of spaghetti all over. I'll probably have the bulk of it finished by tomorrow.

I wish it was driveable now, because this weekend could have really been fun. There is a short-course off road race Sat/Sun, and they need recovery driver volunteers. Oh well, next time. I'm pretty stoked about this event- this newly formed group is doing 4 short course weekends, 3 rock crawl weekends, and 3 rallye cross weekends. Within 30 minutes of my house! There's hope for this area yet! In case anyone's curious, here's a link to the promo/company- http://www.supertoysadventures.com/

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Randy, if you had a shop the size of mine you would probably have six projects going all at one time and it would drive you crazy trying to figure out which one to work on today. LOL
So I don't see a downside for you.
 
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More electrical progress. Man, am I getting sick of wiring. Gotta get done, summer's almost here! (So says the calendar, but I can see it snowing on the pass from here...)

So, I needed relays for my lights and horn. Wanted a small underhood box that also incorporated fuses/breakers. Looked everywhere...no joy. Solution? Build one! Using a pair of Ford boxes of unknown origin, I was able to clip them together and get 6 relays and 3 fuses. I needed 5 relays and 3 fuses/2 breakers, so the fun begins. I removed one of the relays, checked the existing terminals, and started in with the Dremel. A short while later, with new terminals now cemented in place with hot glue, I had the box I wanted. Some trimming and a few pop rivets and the two lids were now one. relays are for high beam, low beam, (both on breakers) and then for fog lights, off road lights, and horn. It all connects up with weatherpac connectors (mostly) and there is an 8GA power wire to the primary battery. Should work great!

Lid off-
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Lid on. The large gauge red and blue cables are 4GA feeds for the interior power distribution center. I have a ton of quality stereo wiring removed from trade ins, might as well use it! It's all high current fine strand OFC cable, beats the heck out of battery cables...
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I also got my data link connector installed under the dash,along with a dome lamp defeat button...
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Randy,

been quietly watching your build without comment this whole time.. figured it's about time to pitch back in and compliment.. your fab-fu is strong ;) Those light project boxes look great. (For some reason some of your pics red-X out on me so I only get about half.. not sure why, probably my end).

reference switch labelling.. what's the matter, don't you like euroglyphics? ;) There are buttons on the dash/HVAC of my Audi that I still don't know what they mean.....
 
Thanks! Does that mean I can weld on rice paper without leaving spatter?:D

I'm pretty detail oriented, having the switches labeled is mandatory. I know what you mean about European cars...the worst one I ever had for switches was a 1978 Audi 5000s. Felt like a Bond car.

If you can't see the pics and want to go straight to the source, I download all my stuff to Webshots. It's in the "Scrambler" album. http://community.webshots.com/user/randyzzzcustoms
 
Back to it! Finished Jury Duty- it was a good thing- we were able to keep a nice guy from getting railroaded in a family dispute. I'll leave it at that.

So...A/C lines are all fabricated, just need to have them crimped up and installed. There's a lot going on behind the passenger headlight...

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Got a mount built for the dryer, took 2 tries- first one was too close to the hood...

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Got the washer bottle installed. Mounted to a piece of aluminum, didn't want to stress the tabs when the body flexed. The bottle with pump new was only $20 on EBay! It was being sold as a universal part, but I recognized it...

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Final design on the air intake tube and filter. All 4" tube. I still have to build a box around it.

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Lastly, I installed some LED running/turn lights in my inner fenders.

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After all this was done, I decided I'd throw the battery in and see if there was any smoke in the wires. No smoke!!!:thumbsup: Even better, everything works perfectly! So, I'm waiting to get the computer back from reprogramming, I have to figure out my temp sender fittment, and I have to get driveshafts. I also ordered the Metalcloak rear fenders yesterday, so I'll have to get some powdercoating done too. My goal is to drive it on the 4TH of July!!!:cheers::woot:
 
Does that mean you're going to drive up to Yakima on the 4th and help me put a new roof on my house?:fingerscrossed:
 
I had the same problem behind the passenger headlight when I installed my AC. I actually had to put 1/2" spacers to get clearance for my headlights.
 
Does that mean you're going to drive up to Yakima on the 4th and help me put a new roof on my house?:fingerscrossed:

Last time I was up on a roof it ended very badly....:( That's why my left shoulder will never be the same...

ZR- I still have another hard line to fit in there- I think I'll end up trimming the headlamp bucket a bit.
 
Got the A/C hoses crimped today, tomorrow the dash goes back together. The shop I got the hoses crimped at is a local hot rod shop, I might be able to get their painter to shoot my Scrambler on the side!!!
 
Where would the folks like us be without getting things done on the side?

Great news!
 
Well, for a Hot Rod shop I guess it's a good deal on a nice paint job, but the "On the side" price is $2100:eek: Looks like I'll be waiting a bit longer.

Anyways....I got a couple of my "head scratchers" figured out today. First was the temp sender for my VDO gauge to the LS head. The head is tapped 12 X1.5, but VDO doesn't make a correct ohm range sender in that size. I wasn't too keen on drilling and retapping the head, so I chose to modify the sender. Starting out with a 3/8 pipe sender, I chucked it up in the drill press and turned it down to size (.465) using first my die grinder and finishing it off with a file. Don't laugh, it worked! Then I got out my die and cut some new threads.
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A copper crush washer and a bit of non hardening sealer just on the washer area, and we're done!
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Next was the 4X4 indicator switch. From the factory, the 241OR switch is actually a variable resistor so the computer knows exactly which gear you're in. All I needed was a light... So, I took the switch from a Grand Cherokee 242, shimmed it to correct length, and wired it up. Works perfectly. Actually, it has 2 leads and will indicate both 4X4 and 2X4, but I really don't need to know when I'm in 2WD.:rolleyes: Sorry, forgot to take pics of that before installation, but who hasn't seen a 4X4 switch?

Next, I was trying to come up with a solution for keeping the brushed aluminum dash looking clean. My last dash got scratched and fingerprinted way too easily. I ended up ordering some of the plastic protective film that is used on car hoods for chip protection. Got it applied, like a big sticker- I'll give it a day before trimming out the holes. This stuff is tough- a new Xacto blade has a hard time cutting it!!! And, it's matte finish so the won't be much glare, I hope.

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Got word from Wayne that my computer shipped out yesterday. I've had a battery installed for 6 days now and it hasn't lost even 1/10 volt, so I'm thinking there's no shorts or draws. :woot: Got the rear axle shimmed down for a standard driveshaft, now I'll be able to have one from my stash shortened instead of buying a new CV shaft. We'll see how that works out. If I change my front yoke from 1330 to 1310 I can do the same thing- I have a new 1310 CV shaft that's about a foot too long. Got all the A/C hoses except for one installed...waiting for parts for it. The ducting for the A/C/heater is installed too. I've been busy! I want to be driving by the 4TH:usflag:
 
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Ok...wiring under the dash is done. I ended up having to make a different PCM bracket so everything fit. The new one is a lot better. There's not much room left under there.
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Lessons learned- 1) Next time I'll just buy the Painless harness. Would have been a LOT easier. 2) I redid the harness to clean it up and reduce redundancy and bulk, but when you have twice as many electrical gadgets as stock, the new harness has twice as many wires as stock. 3) Making the fuse box modular/easily removable by making all the attaching wiring removable via Weatherpack connectors sounds great in theory- in practice it creates an enormous amount of excess bulk that you have to find room for. See number 1. 4) Three 3" and two 2 1/2" vent tubes take up a LOT of space under the dash. I know why Jeep used underdash air stock. 5) Should have gone with Vintage Air instead of the cheaper Hot Rod Air A/C unit. It has plenty of volume, but the modes are less than optimal. In defrost, the unit also allows floor heat. There's no way to close off floor heat in defrost, and being that the duct to the defrost is quite long, volume to defrost is barely adequate. Stock CJ I'd guess. If I cover the floor heat, defrost volume is OK. I will have to fabricate some sort of door system to fix this issue...:banghead:
A/C hoses:
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Reinstalled the modified fresh air box with a hidden control cable.
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Picked up the rear driveshaft yesterday, and started putting in fluids. I think that's about the max angle I'm comfortable without a CV shaft- it does look steeper in the pic than it really is.
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Still waiting on parts for my last A/C hose, and on my rear flares. Once the rear flares show, it's off to powdercoat for the lot. So close to being driveable...
 
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