- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
This is what I am starting with, subject to change:
I chose this pulley to start with, think it will work, we will see:
On trying to choose an idler pulley, I went through 3 pages of Gates pulleys. I narrowed it down to the following choices:
My criteria:
1) price and availability
2) steel (plastic would be fine too, I guess, I just wanted steel)
3) outer diameter, thinking I need something under 3"/90mm
4) not too wide to rub, but wide enough to catch the belt without really having to get a narrow pulley located super precise
5) the 17mm bearing ID uses common reducers for 10mm or 12mm bolts (also, the bearing in this pulley is a common bearing)
I am going to start off with this pulley. If it won't work, I will be able to easily find something that will, i.e bigger OD.
Hard to see, but where my middle finger is pointing to:
Directly to the left of the steering stabilizer, on the timing chain cover, two threaded studs. This is where I want to mount my plate that will hold the idler pulley. Perfect location, already there, easily adaptable.
So, let's "RedneckRay" a mounting plate!!!!!!!
My "CAD" drawing:
I may be a redneck, but I find it easier to use metric when doing this stuff!!!!!!!. Easier to divide 40mm in half vs fractional inches LOL!!!!
My drawing/drilling actually worked out well. The studs are 3/8", I drilled the holes in the plates to 7/16", and either plate slides tight over the two studs, which is what I wanted. Not bad for a block of wood, old Dewalt hand drill, dull drill bits, and "RednecRay" math!!!
The lower, smaller plate is 1/8". This might be a hair light.
The larger upper plate is 3/8". I would prefer this for two reasons:
1) Thicker, so I can drill/tap it for the idler mounting bolt, plus a nut, extra secure and strong
2) The larger size gives me more space to offset the idler pulley bolt to where it is needed (center line of the drilled holes might not work due to the OD of my chosen pulley)
The problem with the 3/8" plate: when I place it over the timing chain studs, not enough thread left sticking out for a regular nut, let alone a lock nut. A jamb nut will work. Not the end of the world. If need be, I can pull the OEM studs out, thread in long 3/8" bolts from the back side, gain more threads and fore/aft adjustability. Or, thread lock the jamb nits on. My tight holes mean I do not need washers between the nuts/plate.
This is also why I bought two adapters, one for 17mm bearing ID down to 12mm, one down to 10mm. So, I can use the larger bolt (prefered I guess) or use the smaller bolt IF the hole is closer to the edge of the plate.
This is all just a start, subject to change. I "might" make up some wood plates to test fit. Wood is cheaper, and easier/faster to work with.
Anyway, that is it for now.
I chose this pulley to start with, think it will work, we will see:
On trying to choose an idler pulley, I went through 3 pages of Gates pulleys. I narrowed it down to the following choices:
My criteria:
1) price and availability
2) steel (plastic would be fine too, I guess, I just wanted steel)
3) outer diameter, thinking I need something under 3"/90mm
4) not too wide to rub, but wide enough to catch the belt without really having to get a narrow pulley located super precise
5) the 17mm bearing ID uses common reducers for 10mm or 12mm bolts (also, the bearing in this pulley is a common bearing)
I am going to start off with this pulley. If it won't work, I will be able to easily find something that will, i.e bigger OD.
Hard to see, but where my middle finger is pointing to:
Directly to the left of the steering stabilizer, on the timing chain cover, two threaded studs. This is where I want to mount my plate that will hold the idler pulley. Perfect location, already there, easily adaptable.
So, let's "RedneckRay" a mounting plate!!!!!!!
My "CAD" drawing:
I may be a redneck, but I find it easier to use metric when doing this stuff!!!!!!!. Easier to divide 40mm in half vs fractional inches LOL!!!!
My drawing/drilling actually worked out well. The studs are 3/8", I drilled the holes in the plates to 7/16", and either plate slides tight over the two studs, which is what I wanted. Not bad for a block of wood, old Dewalt hand drill, dull drill bits, and "RednecRay" math!!!
The lower, smaller plate is 1/8". This might be a hair light.
The larger upper plate is 3/8". I would prefer this for two reasons:
1) Thicker, so I can drill/tap it for the idler mounting bolt, plus a nut, extra secure and strong
2) The larger size gives me more space to offset the idler pulley bolt to where it is needed (center line of the drilled holes might not work due to the OD of my chosen pulley)
The problem with the 3/8" plate: when I place it over the timing chain studs, not enough thread left sticking out for a regular nut, let alone a lock nut. A jamb nut will work. Not the end of the world. If need be, I can pull the OEM studs out, thread in long 3/8" bolts from the back side, gain more threads and fore/aft adjustability. Or, thread lock the jamb nits on. My tight holes mean I do not need washers between the nuts/plate.
This is also why I bought two adapters, one for 17mm bearing ID down to 12mm, one down to 10mm. So, I can use the larger bolt (prefered I guess) or use the smaller bolt IF the hole is closer to the edge of the plate.
This is all just a start, subject to change. I "might" make up some wood plates to test fit. Wood is cheaper, and easier/faster to work with.
Anyway, that is it for now.